Finally go the new engine in

[wpavlis]

My uncle was in town this town so i had some help. I finally got this new engine installed in the truck. I still have a few little things to complete like the fuel line, throttle, and spark pug wires but it finally at least looks complete. Its a 350 with vortec heads, doug thorley tri-y headers and an edelbrock carb. Hopefully i can get it started i the next week or two. Thanks to everyone on here that answered all of my questions while i was putting this together.

[Tuff Gong]

Very nice

[geezer#99]

Yes!
Very nice!
Heater hoses are on wrong.

I also see two breathers.
Is one going to be a pcv?

[Chilly178]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Yes!
Very nice!
Heater hoses are on wrong.

I believe that is for the external bypass.

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Yes!
Very nice!
Heater hoses are on wrong.

I also see two breathers.
Is one going to be a pcv?

Passenger side looks to have a nipple for PCV hose to carb, to me any way. Nice looking engine

[In The Ten Ring]

Congratulations! That looks like a very nice job and clean engine bay. I especially like the 2-tone effect of those black lines on your valve covers. Did you hand paint those lines?

Now that you have the new engine in, may I have your old engine?

Just kidding! I have no room for it anyway. Are those heater hoses hooked up right or do those go differently for a V8? My truck is a straight 6.

[geezer#99]

Intake to bottom of core, top of core back to water pump on a sbc.
Six banger is thermo housing to bottom, top to water pump.
Designed that way to burp any air out.

[wpavlis]

Yes, the heater hoses are backward. I accidentally put the heater core in upside down and didn't feel like taking it all back apart. The connection for the larger hose is actually on top as a result. It shouldn't really affect anything, especially here in Phoenix.

I do still need to hook up the pcv, the vacuum advance on the distributor, and a few other odds and ends like reinstall the inner fender.

The hardest part was actually the drivers side header. I ended up needing to take the z bar for the clutch back out as well as remove the drivers side valve cover to get it in.

The valve covers are finned aluminum ones. I just painted the raised part black. You can't really tell in the picture but they have some imperfections where I didn't do the best job. Maybe someday i will fix that. Its not a show truck so maybe not.

[wpavlis]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Intake to bottom of core, top of core back to water pump on a sbc.
Six banger is thermo housing to bottom, top to water pump.
Designed that way to burp any air out.

I didn't realize it was to let air out. I figured it was to put the entering (hot) water on the leaving side of the coil. That's how you would do it in an HVAC system anyway. Should i switch it? I can probably get the 5/8 hose on there if i try.

[Steeveedee]

Don't waste your time with switching the heater hoses. I don't think you will ever see a situation in the continental US where the coolant flowing "the wrong way" will affect you.

[KY_GMC]

You will need to add a coolant bypass line from the water pump to the intake if it is a Gen I block. The heads wont get coolant until the thermostat opens up.

This is what I did:

[wpavlis]

The heater should act as a bypass shouldn't it? Water is puller from the lower radiator hose and pushed into the block. The heater hose that attaches to the water pump is on the inlet side of the pump. It is then pushed through the block to the intake and returned through the heater. This should allow circulation through the block until the thermostat opens up.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by KY_GMC

You will need to add a coolant bypass line from the water pump to the intake if it is a Gen I block. The heads wont get coolant until the thermostat opens up.

This is what I did:

Attachment 1903329

Correct me if I’m wrong, but a first gen has a bypass in the water pump.

[Big Kev-O]

Originally Posted by KY_GMC

You will need to add a coolant bypass line from the water pump to the intake if it is a Gen I block. The heads wont get coolant until the thermostat opens up.

This is what I did:

Attachment 1903329

That is a very clean way of going it. Some guys just drill a small hole in the T-stat when running the Vortec heads. I used a bypass across the heater hoses.

Yes, your heater core would work as a bypass when your controls were set to heat. If the valve on the heater core actually closes all the way you would not have enough flow.

[Husker]

Looks Great. Nice job
Ron

[toms68cst]

Me likey. A lot!

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by wpavlis

My uncle was in town this town so i had some help. I finally got this new engine installed in the truck. I still have a few little things to complete like the fuel line, throttle, and spark pug wires but it finally at least looks complete. Its a 350 with vortec heads, doug thorley tri-y headers and an edelbrock carb. Hopefully i can get it started i the next week or two. Thanks to everyone on here that answered all of my questions while i was putting this together.

You most likely will enjoy those shocks, I put a whole set on my truck and am now riding like an American.

Question on the headers you have on there, What Brand and Product Number?

[wpavlis]

Good to know i picked the right ones!

The headers are doug thorley tri-y. They are ceramic coated and made for our trucks with a manual transmission. They seem to clear the clutch and shift linkages (3OTT) just fine. I will look up the number when i get home for you.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Nice

[wpavlis]

Headers are part # 372YC.