55.2-59 1957 Radiator Support Removal

[qbeanie]

Do the fenders require supplemental support when the radiator support is removed?

[_Ogre]

what are you trying to do?

i know there are differences 57 to 58, but the core support is what everything else bolts to on the 58-59
inner fenders bolt to core support, fenders bolt to inner fenders, grill core piece goes in last

[_Ogre]

keeps giving me an error when i did 3 pics

[_Ogre]

8 bolts hold the tf front end on
2 core support, 2 upper fender, 2 lower fender and 2 inner fender

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by qbeanie

Do the fenders require supplemental support when the radiator support is removed?

My answer is YES. I'm not sure what "supplemental support" actually means but I'm taking it to mean if you remove the radiator support out do you need to have the fenders supported for alignment purposes. Let us know your meaning and intent.

[qbeanie]

I am going to remove the radiator support to facilitate engine removal. I would like to leave the fenders on if possible and need to know if additional bracing is required to support the fenders or if there is adequate support with the remaining bolting.
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[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by qbeanie

I am going to remove the radiator support to facilitate engine removal.

why would you do that?

it would be a lot easier just to pull the whole front clip

[dsraven]

just unbolt and remove the whole thing as a unit. have some help (probably do anyway if removing the engine) and simply lift it off as one piece-minus the hood. if not then support the front sheet metal well or the fenders may be bent due to being supported if/when the truck shifts slightly from weight of driveline being removed. put truck on stands front and rear so the truck won't shift otherwise. just as much work maybe. if you plan to build some sorta structure to support the front sheet metal off the frame of the truck then you might aas well unbolt the front end and set aside. easier to work on as well.
it would look like this, bigger truck but same theory

https://www.ricpatnor.com/garage/m13...m9oi1zrymxls8s

[dsraven]

wiring
coolant hoses and rad removal so no possibility of damage to rad. cardboard over the fin area is also good. remove engine fan if worried about interference
check fit around the bumper valance and remove the bumper if you think you need to
bolts at rear upper and lower fender mounts and also lower inner fender mounts on firewall. keep any shims labelled so you know roughly how many were where
rad support bolts
easier to have front wheels off so no such a tall lift over the wheels. lower truck down some if possible
hood off would be good but not absolutely required because the hinges bolt to the firewall
thick cardboard or something placed on the storage area floor to protect the edges of the bodywork against the floor
tape edges of the doors and fenders so if they touch no paint scratches
one guy each side or more if you have them. lift and separate. walk it over to the cardboard and set it down
lots of room to work now

or

build some sort of structure to support the front clip with no rad support. build off the frame of put the truck on stands so it can't move if supporting the front end off the floor. floor supports may get in the way of the engine lift, depending on the lift style. too low of frame may also impede the lift, depending on the style again.

take pics so you know what went where when you put it back together

[qbeanie]

If I had the room I would, trying to work within limited garage space. Thanks.
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[_Ogre]

you could pull the front clip off, remove engine and place the front end back on quicker than the disassembly process
3 people can lift the whole clip on/off in seconds (once all the wiring & bolts are out)
we did this on my truk many times during the ifs install

unless you are severely limited by headroom, the engine comes out with a cherry picker with the rad support in place

these pics shows a filthy front clip in place after reinstalling the primered cab while doing cab rustoration