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09-04-2019, 09:19 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Carnation, WA.
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Getting ready to put parts on long block----
Been over 50 years------------------------------
1. In what order should I put on the timing cover and oil pan. 2. Is it necessary to spot weld oil pump arm to keep it in place? 3. Do you use RTV on every gasket? Was Permatex in my day. I will be putting an Edlebrock intake on. Would it be safer to install engine with a load leveler system rather than a carb plate (I have both). Front end is off. ANY help is appreciated. |
09-04-2019, 10:26 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Simi Valley, CA
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Re: Getting ready to put parts on long block----
1. It's easier to put the timing cover on first if it hasn't been cut to ease re-installation of timing chain and gears in its past life. If it's been cut it won't matter too much.
2. I've never spot welded a pick screen to an oil pump. Once I had one fall off, but I had it knurled and hammered it back on. 3. Do what the package says for the gaskets. Ye olde Permatex still works fine. If the trans is in place in the truck, I'd go with the carb plate, personally. FWIW, I've never used a carb plate, just chains on bolts in the block or intake manifold. Either one is as safe as the other.
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~Steven '70 Chevy 3/4T Longhorn CST 402/400/3.56 Custom Camper Simi Valley, CA |
09-04-2019, 10:39 PM | #3 |
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Re: Getting ready to put parts on long block----
What Steveedee says is good information. The only thing I would add is don't bother with the front and rear gaskets on the bottom of the intake manifold use RTV or a gasket maker product instead.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
09-05-2019, 01:01 AM | #4 |
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Re: Getting ready to put parts on long block----
If the the oil pump and pickup are both new and of good quality the interference fit will be very tight making a spot weld unnecessary IF you use the proper tool to install the pickup into the pump. Bottom line if you can easily move the pickup in the pump fully installed do the spot weld.
Load leveler is great to ease install IF the engine hoist will raise the engine high enough (most don't) to clear everything using the leveler. Yes, timing cover first, then oil pan. I use light sealant on every gasket for an engine I plan to never take apart (ie: stock street motor). I HATE leaks down the road. Tip: (this is necessary only if the long block is a rebuild or using a cheap china timing cover) before you permanent install the timing cover: install the timing cover dry on the block and slide on the balancer just enough before the seal surface to starts contacting balancer seal. Check the gap at 6 and 12 oclock to make sure they are the same. If you can see a difference with the naked eye the engine has excessive line bore machining and that seal will leak. Check 3 and 9 oclock positions too (china timing cover) This condition is very rare but a total drag if your engine has to come apart later to fix this. Steve weim55 Colorado Last edited by weim55; 09-05-2019 at 01:06 AM. |
09-05-2019, 04:48 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Gods country East,Tn
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Re: Getting ready to put parts on long block----
I've seen a few different ways to secure an oil pick up tube to the pump and a few failures , JB weld , tack weld that cracked the tube both of those led to oil starvation and failure , when I installed a new Melling pump in my 350 I used a Pioneer oil pump pick up tube retainer from Summit and I'm sure it will do the job .
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...yABEgLTGvD_BwE Also a good tip on the crank timing cover seal install worth a look . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOfOHMI6Wnc These little install tips could save you big headaches down the road .
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1967 Factory short bed - Old school '71 - 350 / 4bolt / 487 heads / Edelbrock C3BX Muncie M-22 4 speed / Hurst Comp plus Factory 12 bolt posi 3.73 / 255-70-15 Smoothed firewall / Factory cowl induction Power disc brakes / power steering / 3.5-5" drop |
09-05-2019, 04:57 AM | #6 |
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Re: Getting ready to put parts on long block----
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1967 Factory short bed - Old school '71 - 350 / 4bolt / 487 heads / Edelbrock C3BX Muncie M-22 4 speed / Hurst Comp plus Factory 12 bolt posi 3.73 / 255-70-15 Smoothed firewall / Factory cowl induction Power disc brakes / power steering / 3.5-5" drop |
09-05-2019, 04:08 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Ark City, Kansas
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Re: Getting ready to put parts on long block----
I've never NOT welded a pickup tube...
Two years ago I freshened up a 350 for a friend. I measured the pan depth, then got online into Moroso's catalog. I bought a pickup that bolts to the pump body itself, using two of the pump housing bolts...THAT is the best way!!! |
09-05-2019, 05:56 PM | #8 |
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Re: Getting ready to put parts on long block----
Probably 100 Million of them were pressed in that didn't fall out. And I got one.
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~Steven '70 Chevy 3/4T Longhorn CST 402/400/3.56 Custom Camper Simi Valley, CA |
10-02-2019, 04:24 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Carnation, WA.
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Re: Getting ready to put parts on long block----
TY all for replies and sorry for late response. Heart problems have put me way behind.
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10-02-2019, 04:55 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Cherryville, NC
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Re: Getting ready to put parts on long block----
Hi,
Best wishes on a speedy recovery from your heart issues.... and you are not way behind...at least you are looking at the daisies from above the ground! I know I do everyday....
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Family and country before all others... 2006 Chevy Silverado (Daily Driver) 2012 Chevy Equinox |
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