Battery cables

[Grumpy old man]

I'm Building a heavier set of battery cables using Batterycablesusa.com parts , I ordered parts on Wednesday and they arrived today so 2 day shipping , All copper parts and heavy duty at a good price and fast / low shipping cost I used gauge 2 cables and ordered extra for a few heavy duty ground cables . Good Stuff !

[Stocker]

Looks great! I think I see a hint of flux, is the connector soldered on, or crimped.... or both? I don't own a good crimper and I solder everything. No failures yet.

[jeffahart]

Nice! Lugs and slugs are the way to go if you don't have the proper crimpers, which I don't. I keep an assortment of lugs and slugs on hand, they're handy.

j

[ManNamedJed]

Solder pellets sure make it easy!

When I did mine I used this kind of battery terminal:
https://www.wiringdepot.com/ordnance...terminals.aspx

They have one large bolt, so you just build all your cables with copper lugs. Makes it nice if you have multiple batteries, winch or other accessories as you can just stack them onto the bolt.

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by ManNamedJed

Solder pellets sure make it easy!

When I did mine I used this kind of battery terminal:
https://www.wiringdepot.com/ordnance...terminals.aspx

They have one large bolt, so you just build all your cables with copper lugs. Makes it nice if you have multiple batteries, winch or other accessories as you can just stack them onto the bolt.

X2 I use similar mil-spec terminals, they're well used!

j

[palallin]

No connection: just thought I'd add this to the discussion:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brute-Hamme...0/323773835989

[Andy4639]

Just for future reference Harbor Freight carries a nice set of cables and connections for this type of stuff.
Already to go 6' and 3'.

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-ft-i...awg-63747.html

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

Just for future reference Harbor Freight carries a nice set of cables and connections for this type of stuff.
Already to go 6' and 3'.

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-ft-i...awg-63747.html

I have a set of those inverter cables on my inverter that I keep in my truck for the last 10 years , It's come in handy a few times Even running my 25 gallon air compressor filling tractor tires when I was clearing some land . I just wanted something a bit more custom fitted for my 67 and building my own cables works better for me to hide as much of the under hood wiring as possible rather than having a rats nest of wires running everywhere . I went with the best I could find for my situation that I know is gas/chemical/ and abrasive resistant and good quality . I'll be adding another fuse block under the dash to handle the accessories I'm adding to the interior like the Vintage air and bed lighting .


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMTAZ1W/

[jeffahart]

I had three five foot high strand 2 gauge cables, I got on the cheap. Anyhow, a couple of the lugs slipped off from a poor crimps. I like the price, but am now skeptical of the quality of the assembly. Hacked off all the ends and re-lugged. I use the 2 gauge for my winch grounding, the shielding is kind of bunk also. I'll check out the HF stuff too.

Just give the lugs a twist and a yank to see if they're on there good. If not, the re-lug and slug only takes a couple minutes.


j

[Andy4639]

I build custom golf carts all the time with 00 welding cables. I have the crimpers and lugs to make whatever size I need.

Grumpy old man, I agree I would rather make my own but sometimes the pre fab ones are just the right length.

[palallin]

I really like that terminal with the 90 degree bend for the solenoid post.

[gmc684x4]

I did my booster cables 4/0 used lugs and slugs from napa
I sold my crimper several years back I used it once in 20 years

[bry593]

I used 2 gauge cables from what I think was an early 2000's GM truck of some sort. Not sure really. I deciphered the battery cable code and then just searched for that on RockAuto until I saw something that looked about right. Since it is for a late model truck the cables were inexpensive and professionally terminated. I think I paid $25 for one and $20ish for the other. Both have a 6 gauge secondary whip that I shortened and torch soldered a copper lug. These 6 gauge are a superior connection to the main harness through a 30 amp MIDI fuse. A red Bussmann Series LMI1-E-0-0 Fuse Holder was used to replace the lame-O factory fusible link.

Here is the fuseholder: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/4639...0-Fuse-Holder/

By the way, if you ever have the GM "hot start problem", switching to 2 gauge makes the problem go away.....

[57taskforce]

0/0 welding cable with soldered ends on mine, major overkill but I’d rather it be that way than not enough. I don’t do crimped ends, I’ve never had good luck with them. I build battery cables for our compressor engines several times a month at work.

[Grumpy old man]

To the top per request .

[Getter-Done]

Subbed to this for future reference

Good info










.

[Richard2112]

Those look good Grumpy. It's always good to know your electrical system is as good as it can get.

[Grumpy old man]

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/

[ghackett1]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

I'm Building a heavier set of battery cables using Batterycablesusa.com parts , I ordered parts on Wednesday and they arrived today so 2 day shipping , All copper parts and heavy duty at a good price and fast / low shipping cost I used gauge 2 cables and ordered extra for a few heavy duty ground cables . Good Stuff !

Nice, that’s the way to do it. No heat sink with that set up.

[PbFut]

Gumpy, what did you do for the pig tail to the terminal on the fender. Simply squeeze a 6 or 8 guage wire into the terminal before solder? Fuse Link? Fuse terminal?
I have been meaning to do this project as well.

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by PbFut

Gumpy, what did you do for the pig tail to the terminal on the fender. Simply squeeze a 6 or 8 guage wire into the terminal before solder? Fuse Link? Fuse terminal?
I have been meaning to do this project as well.

I add a pig tail into the terminal long enough to attach the fusible link and be tucked out of the way , solder the connection and use heat shrink tubing to isolate the bare connection , The fusible link to the fender junction block should be about 9" if I remember correctly . Then on a second fusible link I will add a butt connector and keep it in your glovebox along with a spare set of points or an extra HEI module . That way if your fusible link does go bad while away from home you can use the spare and attach using the butt connector already stashed away , Doing this could save you on the side of the road , and be repaired in minutes . Always keep basic tools and wire cutters and connectors within reason in your truck .
Here is what you need --

fits all GM Cars/Trucks
14 Gauge Thickness
9" Lead Wire
Re: part # 8915135
Show Quality!




https://www.ebay.com/itm/25587876523...yABEgKkmfD_BwE

[mr48chev]

Switching to 2 ought cables is one of the best things you can do on any of our trucks.

I had hot start issues with my 77 454 for several years even though if you were on a slight incline where the truck could roll you could pop the clutch and fire right up. I did the Ford Solenoid trick and that helps a bunch but going to size 2 cables and installing a heat shield were the real cure.

I've got the same setup in my 71 with the Cad 500 in it. That truck is still a work in progress but I am gaining slowly.

[72SB]

"Rolling your own" cables using #2 is great so you can dress the cables exactly where/how you want. You need a good crimp tool.

I prefer and have side post, 78 series battery, on my 72 and buy premade #2 cables the length I need. I found a link on AC Delco cables that breaks down cable size & length so you can pick a part # that meets those needs. The part # itself will not be the one for your truck per say but be the gable gauge and length you want.

Then I just order that part #. I typically get them on Amazon for a very reasonable $

This one for example also has insulation on + cable where it runs along the engine (2=#2, 43= ").

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[dmjlambert]

Originally Posted by 72SB

... I found a link on AC Delco cables that breaks down cable size & length so you can pick a part # that meets those needs. The part # itself will not be the one for your truck per say but be the gable gauge and length you want.....

I wonder if you could please share the link about AC Delco cables?

[72SB]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

I wonder if you could please share the link about AC Delco cables?

Didn't save the link, it was something I stumbled on when searching for #2 battery cables by length. Wish I had saved it.

First # denotes cable size (i.e. 6, 4, 2, etc) and the last numbers before any letters = length. Various other letters after size and length #'s denote top or side clamp, insulated or not.

the + cable I posted is 43" long