Help! Overwhelmed on Where to Start

[dwhite84]

My first post on the board although I've already learned so much from the collective knowledge here. I recently purchased a number matching 1969 K20 to be my daily driver (I work from home so don't drive much) but also my project car. I even have the original protect-o-plate and original manual/warranty guide that came with the truck.

I was originally looking to do a resto-mod, but the numbers matching thing kinda bothers me. Hagerty's "definitive buyers guide" seems to indicate no one really cares about numbers matching value-wise.

I have to keep this as my daily driver for a while before I can do the frame off resto I want to do - but I've got time to do some labor-intensive work to start making it beautiful. Looking for feedback on:

• Keep the truck original or resto-mod
• What low-cost projects to complete first

I appreciate all of the feedback!

[geezer#99]

What do you mean by ‘numbers matching’?
I you mean motor is original then you only have the casting code or the suffix code to go by.
Your truck’s motor didn’t have a partial vin on it that matches the truck serial number.
Could have a different motor in it.
Good looking truck and welcome to the forum.

[GerhardH]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

What do you mean by ‘numbers matching’?
I you mean motor is original then you only have the casting code or the suffix code to go by.
Your truck’s motor didn’t have a partial vin on it that matches the truck serial number.
Could have a different motor in it.
Good looking truck and welcome to the forum.

Warm welcome too and enjoy the forum and your toy.
In my opinion means matching number that the number on your engine block is the same as on your protect-o-plate and your build sheet (under the seat). In my sample VO426GYV

V = Engine Assembly plant Flint
04 = month of assembly
24 = day of assembly
YV = 327 8cyl w/ 3sp Autom. Trans 4BBL Carb

[Barnfind46]

I would do as others have said and check all the wear items like belts,hoses,brakes,fuel lines,tires,fluids,tune up. Then start on annoying stuff like,Do all the lights work? Does the truck need an alignment? Which entails does the front end need a rebuild. Then chase the leaks.After that you can start the fun stuff but your truck will be drive able and a joy.

[Sweeet67]

Make it run, make it stop, drive the heck out of it.
Some weekend projects could be a CLR bath. If your handy with a table saw, make your own wood bed. Small one day successes would keep you engaged in the project too. Sandblast and paint the front bumper for example. Polish the grill, degrease the pumpkin, transfer case, engine. A nice quick upgrade would be a HEI distributor.
Just a few ideas to get you learning and enjoying your truck.

[HO455]

Welcome aboard!
The best place to start in my book is to change all the fluids, engine, transmission, axle, and brake. While you are doing that take time to look closely at the truck and note what things look like they need attention. Wiring has a tendency to take a lot of abuse from owners over time so note any non-factory looking alterations.
I like to replace alternators/regulators, belts and water pumps on new rigs as they are cheap and will strand you when they fail.
There are various nooks and crannies that collect dirt and debris that should be cleaned out. I like to clean then coat with POR -15 to stop or at least slow the rust.
It looks like you have a nice unmolested truck. Congratulations! Looking forward to seeing more about it.

[siggyfreud]

Don't sweat numbers matching. They didn't number match trucks. You could verify a truck has the right size motor, but you could never verify that the motor in it was original to THAT truck.

Others have laid out good advice. Focus on the basics to make it safe and reliable first.

Make it stop like you really want.

Then make it handle like you really want.

Then make it accelerate like you really want.

And somewhere in there decide how comfortable you want to make it while doing all three of the above.

[MDPotter]

I wouldn't waste any time or money on making it "numbers matching". Like others have said, make it safe, make it run well, then start working on things like cleaning up the paint, repainting small items, fixing rust, etc.

Unless you can do without it being out of commission for a year or two, I would hold off on doing any restomod work. There's a lot to be appreciated for a nice patina truck like that. You could put in the bed wood, repaint the bumpers, CLR it, redo the seat, install new carpet, give it a tune up, and replace front end parts and do a disc brake conversion and drive it for awhile. Then when you're ready to tear it apart, look at a new powertrain and taking the truck apart.

[clay68c10]

Originally Posted by siggyfreud

Make it stop like you really want.

Then make it handle like you really want.

Then make it accelerate like you really want.

And somewhere in there decide how comfortable you want to make it while doing all three of the above.

This!
And keep it driving as much as possible by doing things a bit at a time. It's harder to be motivated on something that just sits.

Nice truck, looks like a solid start. And don't get too hung up on originality; it's not a split window stingray, just a pickup.

You could just throw in a piece of heavy plywood for a temporary bed floor.

And I'd avoid driving it when the mag chloride is on the roads (wet). It doesn't beat up new cars too bad, but it will definitely hurt the old stuff.

Also, welcome from just up the highway.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by siggyfreud

Make it stop like you really want.

Then make it handle like you really want.

Then make it accelerate like you really want.

When I was 17 I focused on these three wise bits of advice in the exact OPPOSITE order! I still find it quite amazing I've made it this far.

[67C10Step]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

When I was 17 I focused on these three wise bits of advice in the exact OPPOSITE order! I still find it quite amazing I've made it this far.

I thought that was the definition of a teenage boy. Work on the go up to the point you realize there needs to be a considerable amount of woah in there as well.

That's when I did my first disc brake swap. Guess that was about 1989 when I had turned about 20. Sense started kicking in.

[GASoline71]

There were no special engine packages or any kind of numbers on the engines to bring any more value to these trucks. Just sentimental value that it might have the same block in it.

Nice rig and welcome aboard!

Gary

[57taskforce]

That’s an awesome K20! Welcome to the club!

[67C10Step]

Man I understand where you are as I just got my truck back in may of this year. Got it running and moving under it’s own power first. Pulled the bed and am now working on rear frame section, rear diff, and brakes. My plan is to have all new bushings, brakes, springs, bearings, etc done by spring. Then I’ll move on to the front where it will be a total rebuild and power steering disc brake conversion. At that point it will be road worthy so I’ll decide what to do with the tired 283. Rebuild or replace? Don’t know just yet. Got a line on a 327 but am holding off until I get to that point. If I look at the whole project I get overwhelmed so I focus on what I’m doing now while planning what’s next.

[dwhite84]

Thank you for all of the advice! Here is the protect-o-plate, which comes out to:

V1111WO - Flint Engine Plant, Nov 11th, 350c/I 4bbl, 255HP
N9R29 - Munchie 4 Speed, 1969, October 29th

ND1023G - Rear Axle - 4.57, October 23rd, Chevrolet Gear and Axle

Rochester 4bbl Quadra-Jet Carb (this has been replaced with an Edelbrock Carb)
Built-in November 1968

This all matches what is on the truck, and I'm the third owner (the second owner was the son of the first owner) so based on what I was told and can verify everything, for the most part, is original.

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by dwhite84

Thank you for all of the advice! Here is the protect-o-plate, which comes out to:

V1111WO - Flint Engine Plant, Nov 11th, 350c/I 4bbl, 255HP
N9R29 - Munchie 4 Speed, 1969, October 29th

ND1023G - Rear Axle - 4.57, October 23rd, Chevrolet Gear and Axle

Rochester 4bbl Quadra-Jet Carb (this has been replaced with an Edelbrock Carb)
Built-in November 1968

This all matches what is on the truck, and I'm the third owner (the second owner was the son of the first owner) so based on what I was told and can verify everything, for the most part, is original.

That's super cool, and likely all the original stuff. The problem is that getting someone to pay extra for it is difficult because technically it could be a different 350 than the original or a different Munchie 4 speed.

Hence why true numbers matching was a big deal, because the VIN on the car matched the VIN stamp on the engine.

You can't go wrong with any direction you choose honestly. Do what you think you'll enjoy working on and driving the most. People who worry about the value are the same that keep their cars locked up in a garage and rarely enjoy them .

[67swb72klb]

Sounds like you have got plenty of good advise here. You came to the right place!!
Welcome to the site. Looks like you have a great starting point with minimal rust.

[special-K]

Haggerty is wrong. It's not true for all vehicles. A well optioned K/20 as it came from the factory is highly sought after and people are willing to pay for that. You can take a commonly available 73-87 3/4t 4wd chassis and 'create' dozens of 67-72 "looking" K/20s any way you want. You can swap a 67-72 C-model body onto a 67-72 K-model chassis but from what I have seen you won't get as much for either with the wrong VIN. There may be more and more fools with more money than sense buying into these trucks every day making foolish moves someone who knows these trucks wouldn't do. I guess it could control where the values/buying preferences go with so much more of that going on, but the true collector knows the most value is in that which can not be replicated, that which has remained as built through all the years. If someone pays crazy high-dollar money for a K/20 restomod it's because they wanted all that modern crap, not a real K/20. Also, to a true enthusiast the money is not what it's about. That is for the investors.

[dagnabbitt]

Originally Posted by special-K

Haggerty is wrong... Also, to a true enthusiast the money is not what it's about. That is for the investors.

Yes, although I like what Haggerty does for the hobby, they get a lot of stuff wrong about these trucks. I just watched one of their youtube videos and was riddled with small errors. It is kind of understandable, there is a lot to know. As to valuation, I like to know what a truck is worth but you don't restore these things to make money.

OP: great truck, I wouldn't change too much to be honest. Get some bedwood. Aside from changing all your fluids, start going through your suspension and steering and brakes. People treated them like trucks back in the day, and even beloved family heirlooms take a little abuse. After that, I would personally work on the interior and make it more comfortable. Get a correct radio for it, replace the cracked dashpad, those little things are inexpensive and make the truck more fun to drive.

[special-K]

They are an insurance company trying to be more. They just need to be a good insurance company and that will keep me with them.