Brake line fittings help needed please

[msg]

I visited 3 auto part stores today looking for help selecting the proper fittings for a 1/4 inch brake line that I will be flaring from a coil myself. No one at any of the stores knew how to help me. I was told each time to just go buy the pre fitted lines and call it a day. I was able to get the last part store to let me in the stock area where they had a rack of the lines with fittings and I tried out a few to see if the fittings would take to at least have an idea on the master cylinder I bought what fittings to get.

The master cylinder I bought is this one
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...33&jsn=3&jsn=3

I see that the primary is 1/2 " and the secondary is 9/16" but the thread pitch I didnt know so I tried some out and I think the primary is 1/2" - 20 and the secondary looks to be 9/16" - 18.

I think this is right but wanted to check.

Here are pics of the primary

[msg]

And the secondary

[msg]

This is all going into a 66 c10 with front disc conversion and rear drums. I am redoing what was there but in a 1/4" line as part of the rebuild. Here is a pic before I tore it all down

[msg]

Ive tried to diagram what I think the lines will be looking like, but other than knowing that the line is 1/4" that ill be running I am not sure about the size of the fittings that I will be needing and the couplings and T coupler sizes. Here is a diagram I did of the primary. Also the brake hoses that I have bought for the calipers are these. There are 2 end sizes listed, I think I need a fitting for end 2...the 3/8 one?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1029934&jsn=7

[msg]

And here is the rough diagram for the secondary. Im getting a little lost on this, hoping tomorrow I can make better sense of it.

[Steeveedee]

You should be able to buy just the brake line fittings-

https://www.napaonline.com/en/search...ualified=false

[88Stanger]

I will agree that using stainless steel sounds cool and it is good stuff, but to flare it correctly you will need a very good flare tool. I too tried to flare stainless and went to the other also.
Good luck though, ill be rebuilding my entire brake system on mine soon.

[jeff_wilson70]

+1 on the good flare tool.....The ones you rent from the box stores won't cut it....maybe 1-2 flares and it will start slipping on the bubble flare....

Also, msg....when getting the prop valve...get the little tool that keeps the valve centered during the bleeding process. Those valves are designed to close off front or back if it detects a leak to prevent total brake loss.....and it is sometimes difficult to get it to recenter. It gets inserted where the brake light sensor is..

[msg]

I was hoping to avoid buying a $180 tool that I wont be using more than a few times. Ill test out the one I rented and the Harbor freight one I bought today, but Im prepared to spend if it just doesnt do the job. Would be nice if the rentals were that $180 tool.


On the prop valve bleeder I was going to buy this one

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...BoCmpAQAvD_BwE

but Im not sure if it will work with the prop valve I bought here

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-pvk71/overview/

[jeff_wilson70]

If you have the nickel copper lines, they should flare just fine with a rental or HF flaring tool. Its stainless steel that is the issue.

[msg]

I tried the Harbor freight tool and twice it came out wobbly. I didnt try the rental once I opened it up and saw its condition. I cut a 2-3 inch sample test piece and used the 3/16 die. Maybe I am not doing it correctly. I watched a few youtube videos of how this style flaring tool should be used and did what I was seeing in the videos. Ive gone ahead and ordered the amazon tool that looks like the eastwood type for $185. Aggravated.

[plmadding]

Originally Posted by jeff_wilson70

+1 on the good flare tool.....The ones you rent from the box stores won't cut it....maybe 1-2 flares and it will start slipping on the bubble flare....

I spent the holiday bending, flaring, installing brake lines for the C20. Using a cheap flare tool worked, but preparing the ends of the line was a necessity. Filing to ensure perfectly level, de-burring the inside and chamfering the outside edge. If I did these carefully, I would get a good flare. Otherwise, it was lop-sided or deformed in some other way. Also it is very important that the brake line goes through that block in the vise perfectly straight. Otherwise, you don't have a chance of a good flare. Use brake fluid to lubricate the pieces contacting the line.

This was using copper-nickle line.

[msg]

Did you use a straightening tool for the coiled up line? Or do you have a technique that gets it straight?

[plmadding]

Originally Posted by msg

Did you use a straightening tool for the coiled up line? Or do you have a technique that gets it straight?

I generally bend it mostly straight against my gut as I unrolled whatever length I needed. Then I would put 3 inches or so at the end I was about to flare against the anvil section of the vise and push with my hand and it was usually quite straight. I'd also try to position the cut in a very straight spot.

[msg]

Well all I can say is this $180 tool off amazon is really nice. Ive only done one so far as a test but here are the pics.

[roll_the_dice]

I am assuming you finished your brakes? How did it turn out? I need to do the same...want to come down and help me? Bring that fancy flaring tool. I have been eyeing that tool for a while!

[msg]

I have gotten the brake lines completed back in March, not tested yet though so we will see how I did. No leaks though so far. Here is how it went. Took some wire and mocked up the line routes and then got to it. The flaring tool was great. It did goof a time or two but that was user error by not getting the cut line de burred properly before flaring.

[msg]

the small lines from the master cyl to the prop valve were a pain. I re did those multiple times. The bends were so tight the bending tool I had wouldn't cut it so I bought a few rollers that fit the bill and hacked at it but got it done.

I would take the wire and run a form and then straighten the wire to get the length I would need. After flaring the section of line with fittings I took the rollers and used those to help get the bends without distorting the line. One of the rollers needed to have a guard ground off so I could put it in some vise grips and have working room to make the bends.

[msg]

Once the fittings were on I heated up the section I needed to bend. Not a lot of heat just a little to help. The line when that small was kinda tough to bend. You can see on the bench the attempt to bend before before didnt bend right, bent and flattened a good bit. Frustrating. With the wire as a guide I could see what my bend needed to be.

[msg]

Then the last little line that had only one bend wasnt as bad to deal with. Had some help.

[roll_the_dice]

I thought I posted a response. Must have not hit reply.

Anyway, thanks for the detailed pictures. That helps a lot. I wish I could rent that tool for doing flares. Not sure I can justify $180...even though I want it and have wanted it for a while. I plan on doing a truck for my wife one day, so maybe I bite the bullet. You could rent me yours. I am just down the road in Savannah! No seriously...

On a side note...I have a great idea about members renting tools from each other that aren't used often. I just need to try it and see how it goes. Similar to the parts store...where someone would buy it for full price then when returned in good condition, receive slightly less than full price back for the rental...say $20-$30 for a tool like this plus shipping both ways. Might work might be a nightmare.

[roll_the_dice]

I just bought the Eastwood brake flaring tool. I hope to use it often (more builds).

[msg]

You wont be sorry, it took stress off me so it was money well spent. I still have to get my fuel and transmission cooler lines done so I plan to get more use from it. And you are right you never know when that next build could happen.