Starter Fluid Seized Engine Temporarily

[underliner6]

I drove 6.5 hours to Utah a few days ago to pick up a one owner blazer. The original owner passed away 10 years ago and the blazer has been sitting in the daughters garage un-driven. When I arrived it was in the low 20’s and snowing quite a bit. The Blazer would not start. The daughter pulled out a can of starter fluid that was sitting on the front seat, sprayed it into the carb and the Blazer fired right up. Sounded ok, good oil pressure, etc. It did seem like the truck needed a tune up and carb adjustment but nothing that prevented me from buying it.

I get home and again it won’t start to get it off the trailer. I sprayed 2 quick sprays of starter fluid into the carb and she fired right up. I have never used starter fluid up to this point and followed the directions on the can which said practice moderation. As it’s sitting there idling it begins running weaker and weaker and dies. I attempt to crank it and it sounds like the starter wanted to move the flywheel but doesn’t have the guts to do it. I ordered a neutral safety switch and new starter online to see it if it would fix the problem. I started researching and find that the ether in starter fluid can wash the cylinders and pistons clean of oil causing it to seize. I then pull the plugs and they were all gummed and sticky. I spray anti seize into the holes and squirt oil in there to lube everything up. I turn the crank pulley bolt and without much effort “break” the motor free. As I slowly turn the motor, starter fluid starts trickling out of the spark plug holes. I am concerned the daughter had been spraying a lot of starter fluid every time she had recently started the truck before I bought it.

The motor was only seized for 24 hours but I am worried that it seizing in the first place caused damage. What can I do to prevent damage for first start up? I’m changing the oil, installing new plugs, and oiling up the cylinders via the spark plug holes the best I can. What else can I do?

[AussieinNC]

This has all the pointers to bad grounds on the battery to engine and to the cab....limiting the amperage for the starter to turn the engine over....

Once starter fluid has been sprayed down the carb and the engine started, there is little to no starter fluid left....it burns off really quickly....

I would check all ground cables, then perform a compression test to check cylinder compression values....the oil you sprayed into the cylinders may give you some high figures, but at least its a start.

This could also be possibly a cracked head or cylinder bore...if its been sitting there unheated for 10 years with plain water in the radiator, you could have some cracked areas causing water loss into a cylinder, which would lock up the engine....the water would look like starter fluid....hope its not...

[54blackhornet]

Sorry to hear about this, must be distressing not knowing exactly what she did ? Starter fluid should burn off quickly if the engine started up and ran for even just a few moments right ? Hard to imagine it pooling up and running out of the spark plug holes ?

[weim55]

If the vehicle will only start on starting fluid and then run OK there’s a pretty good chance the cylinder compression is too low to fire on gasoline. I would start at Ground Zero make sure you have a good starting system and battery and do a compression check of all eight cylinders. If that checks out OK it’s time to start a thorough check of the fuel and ignition systems. Usually the biggest problem for vehicle sitting too long are fuel problems starting with the fuel tank and moving forward .

Steve weim55 Colorado

[Bobbysgmc]

Change the oil and filter,Remove the distributor and Buy yourself the tool that you can put down the hole and engage the oil pump.Hook it up to a drill and spin the oil pump over for several minutes pre lubing the engine,turn crankshaft one half turn and do again.Set the timing on top dead center before this.Turn crankshaft once again to top dead center.I just did this to a C20 that was sitting for 19 years.Ran the engine for about a half hour and changed oil again.Truck purrs like a kitten.

[underliner6]

All very good advise guys, thank you!

She did tell me that the gas was old in the tank and she put a few gallons into it after many years to get it to run. I was planning on dropping the tank eventually and cleaning it out but maybe this is a more dire issue?

The truck did idle for say 10-15 minutes fine when I bought it and again 10-15 minutes before it sputtered out and died after getting Off the trailer. The motor sounded and felt weaker before it died. The liquid coming out of the spark plug holes sure did smell like starter fluid but maybe I was mistaken. I’ll check compression tomorrow as I have a tester.

[maverickmk]

It sounds like it's not getting gas, if it won't stay running. Try and use a hose into a gas can (from the fuel pump, bypassing the tank) to see if you can get it running. Don't try and pull any gas from the tank as it's most likely varnish. If there really is starting fluid pouring out of the spark plug holes, turn the motor over by hand a few revolutions before putting the spark plugs back in and trying to start it. Like said above, there may be some ground issues as well that need some attention.

[Steeveedee]

I'd put money on rotten gas. As has been mentioned, (diethyl) ether evaporates/burns very quickly. That's why it is used as a starting agent. If the starter fluid had actually seized the engine, it means you have at least one bent connecting rod. Doesn't sound like that is the case, though.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I'd put money on rotten gas.

Ditto this. It may have had just enough semi-decent gas to run for a short time, then as more bad fuel is pumped from the tank, filters will start to plug up and the carb gets contaminated and it's game over.

Check the grounds like Aussie said, but after sitting 10 years you may need to clean out the entire fuel system from tank to carb.

[painterljp]

This new mixed gas or ethanol. Turns to varnish quickly. If it made it up to valves may have bent your valves. Wont start no more. Built a ford engine once for my brother. Installed it ran fine on start up fired first time. Next day went out to finish up and motor was locked up. Pulled valve covers. All push rods bent valves bent and all messed up. Gas tank was full of varnish. Had to pull heads back off send them back to machine shop. Cleaned tank and started over. Never have rebuilt another engine for someone else after that. I would start with pulling valve covers and checking. If will start run it off a gas can under hood just put a new fuel line into a gas can dont pull from tank. . May get lucky it's not a ford.

[davischevy]

Do all the above. I suspect the fuel filter is starving the engine, causing it to sound weaker. It could have water in the fuel also.

I seriously doubt any either is still present.

[68Gold/white]

Originally Posted by davischevy

Do all the above. I suspect the fuel filter is starving the engine, causing it to sound weaker. It could have water in the fuel also.

I seriously doubt any either is still present.

X2, engine needs help, sounds real weak. Either had no effect on weak engine, just helped it spin over. Your problems are elsewhaere, and you may have several problems as other have mentioned. Might still be able to make it somewhat of a runner with some TLC...maybe.

[DeadheadNM]

Jim congrats on the buy. Would be great to see more pics when possible.

Is it possible the motor simply flooded? Maybe debris from the gas lines clogged the accelerator pump or some such in the carb and cranking the motor flooded it in. Check the oil dipstick and drain the oil as needed. Sounds very similar to a situation that I had - one gallon of gas into the oil pan.

[davischevy]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Jim congrats on the buy. Would be great to see more pics when possible.

Is it possible the motor simply flooded? Maybe debris from the gas lines clogged the accelerator pump or some such in the carb and cranking the motor flooded it in. Check the oil dipstick and drain the oil as needed. Sounds very similar to a situation that I had - one gallon of gas into the oil pan.

I had a big block misfire with all that gas vapor in the crankcase. It shredded the valve covers.

[rockyrivermark]

Does it turn over by hand?
If so then it’s starter or ground and not seized
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[underliner6]

Changed the oil, fuel filter, plugs, and put 5 gallons of fresh gas in. Starter is still making one week crank and stopping. I’m thinking a ground or starter issue is probably the issue like you guys said. Going to try and track a ground issue down first as I’m waiting for the new starter in the mail.

Here are some photos of the Blazer.

[Stocker]

Nice clean straight Blazer -- congrats!

[DeadheadNM]

Hey that’s a nice score! Thanks for posting.

[garyd1961]

Try turning it by hand. If you can't you may want to pull the plugs out and turn it over to see if more fluid comes out. If it does you have a problem.

[rockyrivermark]

Originally Posted by garyd1961

Try turning it by hand. If you can't you may want to pull the plugs out and turn it over to see if more fluid comes out. If it does you have a problem.

That was my advise. Simple check.
Or chase every other option first 😁
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[Sweeet67]

If you don’t want to hassle with all of those problems, let me know. I’d be glad to do you a favor and relieve you of the burden. LOL

It a very nice looking ride! Congrats

[54blackhornet]

Beautiful truck you have ! My John Deere tractor has a big red sticker stating Do Not Use Starting Fluid !

[Killer Bee]

great looking rig there!

I'll assume you've verified the battery by properly load testing before we go any further.. this is very often overlooked..

my apologies for a quick blast post, getting ready to go play, but you need to check all these boxes or may be chasing your tail..

assuming healthy battery, trying to follow the chain of events, sounds like hydraulicing to me..

easy way to check, verify engine oil and coolant levels, remove spark plugs and crank engine..

relieving the compression with plugs removed will allow the engine to crank much more easily..

if the starter is still laboring, attempt cranking by hand to verify.. should turn fairly easily..

this would also be a good time to conduct a compression test.. very valuable info in situation like this..

once compression checks good, fluids remain at level and cylinders stay dry, engine cranks freely (old starter or new), continue..

you mentioned you replaced fuel, if not already done so, purge the remaining old fuel completely out, all the way to the carb..

install plugs, static time distributor for 0 and see what happens.. fairly difficult for any engine with compression, fuel and spark not to run..

once idling low and smooth, advance timing, set curb idle, etc. and test drive!

as for the possible detriments of using too much starting fluid, this may happen but does not exhibit the symptoms you describe

[HO455]

The problem with starting fluid is that is a solvent. When it is used excessively it washes the lubrication off of everything. Too much and it runs off of the piston tops, taking all the dirt and debris it collected from the intake and combustion chamber, down into the ring grooves where it washes the oil off of the rings and deposits much of the dirt and debris causing increased bore wear, and in the worst cases gauling between the rings and the bore. It can remove the lubrication from the valve stems and guides with the same results. In cases of continued over application it will dilute the oil in the pan and cause bearing damage.
I recommend following the previously posted advice and get the engine running then do a compression test on the engine (Preferably a leak down test) to give you a good idea where you stand with your new prized possession. She looks like real nice score.
Good luck!

[Boog]

The fact that the engine did start and run verifies it has compression. Starting fluid evaporates really fast so that is not running out of the cylinders when you pulled the plugs. The carb float may be stuck allowing it to flood the engine. That gummy substance you see on the plugs is likely old gas and what ever else the PO may have used in it. Does the truck have antifreeze in the coolant?
If you can turn the engine over by hand with the plugs out the starter should easily spin it over also. Your old starter is likely just needing replaced anyway. A fresh battery, starter and clean cables should make a real difference. Even though the battery cables may look good on the outside they may be junk inside the sheathing after all these years.
It is a super good looking truck and a 1 owner at that. From what I see I think you won the lottery with that one.