Rag joint to u joint steering shaft

[conoco]

I was wondering if anyone thstbjas switched over to ujoints instead of the rag joint set up could tell me what i needed for the set up. I just recently replaced my steering gear box, everything is back together, unfortunately none of the parts stires carry the rag joint for my 1972 gmc k2500, they would have to special order it and from what i have seen it would cost about half of what it would to just upgrade it to u joints.

If you could let me know what parts you used on your set up (if you like it ) thst would be awesome. Amazon has some shafts that say would fit my truck but requires me cutting it to fit ( which is fine if that is my only option) i dont have tilt steering but i will towards the end of summer, not sure if that will change my set up and purchase options or not. I just need to know what parts and everything it will be replacing. I am assuming in the picture it will be replacing everything from where the old rag joint is, all the way up to where the top cinch bolt is. There is a spring attached above that which i am guessing is used to take some of the stress off in bumpy conditions. It seems like everything from that top cinch bolt will stay, right? Any help and guidance would be great. Thank you.

[HO455]

The spring is to preload the lower bearing. The rag joint is there to prevent the steering column from being shoved through the driver's chest in a head on crash. Back in the day it was a leading cause of traffic fatalities. Rag joints were one of the earliest government mandated safety regulations for automotive manufacturers.
Having a single U-joint will not prevent this from happening. You will need to have 2 U-joints to achieve the same safety.

[conoco]

Originally Posted by HO455

The spring is to preload the lower bearing. The rag joint is there to prevent the steering column from being shoved through the driver's chest in a head on crash. Back in the day it was a leading cause of traffic fatalities. Rag joints were one of the earliest government mandated safety regulations for automotive manufacturers.
Having a single U-joint will not prevent this from happening. You will need to have 2 U-joints to achieve the same safety.

The first ujoint would replace the rag joint going into the gear box, the second u joint would go right infront of that spring correct? Right in front of that spring is another cinch bolt with splines underneath, 36 of them.or does the seco d u joint need to go higher tha. That somewhere. Just doesnt seem like it could go anywhere else.
I found a collapsible steering shaft 3/4 DD 30 splines and 36 splines, that would work and stull keep it safe correct? I dont want to change something if its not better for the system. Everything i have read indicates dual u joints has a much better systen

[Andy4639]

Here is what I did. I did both my 67 Ramp truck and the 68 step side. I put tilt columns in both though. It shouldn't matter though.

I ordered the union for a 3/4" 36 spline round shaft with 3/4" DD end and installed it. You cut the DD end to fit the column to rag joint. Very easy and simple.



Amazon prime:
Ensun 3/4"-36 Spline x 3/4" DD Nickel Plating Single Steering Universal U-Joint, Maximum Working Angle: 35° Degree, Total Length: 83mm (3-1/4")

[3767]

Your top u joint needs to b 3/4 x36 spline. Bottom needs to b 3/4 x30 spline. The shaft will b 3/4 ddx1inch dd. 1 inch side goes toward the column smaller side goes to gear box. Collapsible shaft has a min and max length. Pull shaft just out to just shy of max length. Leave about 1" to 1.5" below max. This is where u need to measure what u need vs what u have n length. Cut the difference from the shaft. The working angle u ask about is common to all u single bend u joints. U wont b pushing that angle any where close to what u are doing. Take top cinch bolt out and with a screw driver pry open the shaft . take ur gear box loose from frame and just hang it with a bungee cord or zip tie it if u have a big zip tie. U can even tie it out of the way with a piece of rope .u just need the box outa the way 2 get shaft off. all u want to do is get the top of shaft lose, then slide it off from the bottom. U may have to tap the top with a hammer where the cinch bolt is to get it lose. Your column and gear box will have an undercut where the u joints set screw will go against. The other set screw goes against the flat on the steering shaft. A plated u joint like Andy's doesn't need paint. If u get a plain steel 1 u need to spray it or that Alaska weather will start to show quick. Amazon carries all that u need if the box stores don't work 4 u. It isnt hard and the end result is alot stronger than what u have now.the top u joint will need to b a vibration damper as well. This is built n to the u joint from the factory. That's what the rag joint did for u. It will b n the description of the u joint. U can run without the built n damper but u will feel more vibration n the steering wheel. Some like the "raw feel" while others don't.

[bhap]

I'm in the process of doing this same installation on my 62 C10. Going from the stock shaft to a DD collapsible shaft. Have 3/4" DD to 1" DD u-joint at top (will grind 62 upper shaft to DD), the DD shaft to a 3/4 DD to 3/4-30 vibration reducing u-joint at steering box. My question is on fitting the u-joint to the steering box input shaft. The stub on the end of the input shaft interferes with the pivot on the 3/4-30 u-joint. Can I take some of the stub off without damaging the box? When the splines on the input shaft are even with the inner edge of the u-joint, the u-joint can't be moved to an angle without hitting the stub. It may not be an issue as I don't expect the angle to be very big, but if I could take 1/8 to 1/4" off the stub, clearance would be good. Second question is on the set screw. When the splines are even with the inner edge of the joint, the set screw is at the very beginning of the groove in the input shaft - it that correct? If I use the groove, do I need to drill an additional nub for the set screw? Thanks for your help.

[bhap]

So to answer my own question, I talked to a steering box rebuilder who said the "stub" that sticks out of the end can be cut off flush at the shaft, but to use a ha ksaw and not a grinder. The heat from the grinder will change the temper of the piece. It's a tually called the torsion bar and controls the amount of flow through the pump.