47-55.1 Chassis table

[mick53]

I need to make a chassis table to do the boxing and X bracing on my 53 3100. I hate buying steel for temporary jigs. I throw tons of steel away when I build my dry ice manufacturing plants but I'm always many states from home. My customer that is about 80 miles away told me that he has 20' sticks of new 3" or 4" angle that I can have. Will this work? Should I weld 2 together to make a square? Also do I want to mount to the frame rails or the leaf spring mounts? Thank you for your time.

[thunderjet]

Unless you have a frame that is bent,and are going to try and straighten it, I would see no reason for a frame jig. Go ahead and box the areas that need it and add your x members where you want them.

[slammed57]

click on my build page below, pic#9 is what i did with 1" plywood and the frame is straight as an arrow.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by slammed57

click on my build page below, pic#9 is what i did with 1" plywood and the frame is straight as an arrow.

Holy engineer Batman that's some crazy work! I wanted to put it on the rotisserie and roll it in and out of the shop. My shop is only 32' x 35' so I try to do things with molten metal outside. It needs to be straight. I should run in the 8's. Trying to make it a little fool proof because I'm a construction guy not a chassis guy. The steel is free. He said bring your trailer and take all you want out of the rack. The 53 3100 is going under the knife soon. I bought it in 1980 when I got out of the Navy. It drives, kinda. I also have this 54 3600 sitting out back if that would be a better chassis to start with?

[mongocanfly]

And if you start welding 2pc of angle iron together to make a box its gonna be a warped up mess..

[dsraven]

frame boxing is done with flat steel. there are a couple of ways of doing it, one with the steel tucked inside the C channel of the original frame and one with it sitting proud of the C channel. either way you need to start with a clean straight frame, bevel edges and leave room for the weld bead so you get full penetration, especially if you plan to grind it all nice and smooth like it was a tube frame from factory. it is a long process because you need to weld short beads and then allow the welded area to cool so the frame doesn't warp.
if you were to build a frame table then you might as well start from scratch and build a new frame from square tube. buy an assembly manual and the frame dimensions will be in there.
I have seen some guys box in just a section here or a section there and that may be fine but it could also be a recipe for a cracked frame at the ends of the boxed areas. depending on the HP and use of the truck. frames try to flex under power and even just going over bumps etc, and they will find the weak point to allow that to happen, so, a short section left unboxed, like for a stock cross member to fit through, would become a great area for the flex and ultimate crack to happen.
anyway, just saying, be carefull whatever you do or it will just be a lesson in how metal bends when it is welded. it would be a conversation piece though....

[dsraven]

if you were to build a new frame you could make it straight instead of A framed, and it may make it easier to build suspension around it all.
maybe use the free steel to build a rotiserie. personally I would not use welded angle to box or build a truck frame with. maybe you can trade some angle for some square tube or sheet. usually 3/16 sheet is what gets used for boxing. cold rolled will not have the mill slag on it so it will be easier to work with and use less grinding or sandblasting equipment to get a clean surface for welding.
it's your truck, do what you think is best for you.

[mr48chev]

I don't see any reason you can't weld the angle together to make square rails for the frame table if you want a frame table. Just like any other welding don't get carried away and run long continuous beads.

With my knees it is uncomfortable for me to squat or crawl around to work on much of anything and I am going to build a frame table out of some mobile home frame rails that I salvaged if I have enough straight lengths to get the job done.

You can always lay some plywood or metal on it and use it for a large work bench/table when you don't have a frame on it if you have room to keep it around after the frame is done.

It is what ever works for you and makes your work on your project easier not just the opinion of others who may or may not feel the need for something like this.

[slammed57]

If your going to roll it in and out of the shop the wood will flex a bit so it may through some measurements off. Mine was stationary, so once I trued everything up it stayed. Mr48 idea would work good. and if you can get the steel free then that will be the way to go. If your goin to run in the 8's holy crap what motor is goin in that thang! lol

[dsraven]

hey, sorry man. I thought you were going to use the angle for the frame boxing. duh! too much cold medicine.
should work for a table. triangulate the bracing, like a flat roof truss,and it should be nice and strong. a couple of casters would be a nice addition too.

are you installing IFS and an open driveline too? any ideas on what you will use there?

[mick53]

Originally Posted by slammed57

If your going to roll it in and out of the shop the wood will flex a bit so it may through some measurements off. Mine was stationary, so once I trued everything up it stayed. Mr48 idea would work good. and if you can get the steel free then that will be the way to go. If your going to run in the 8's holy crap what motor is going in that thang! lol

Sorry I didn't mention that some classes of racing (probably mine) require original frame rails, radiator in original position, working doors. Engine may only be moved rearward for fitment only, about 8" for me and widening the fenders only for tire fitment. I will be staying under 11.5" wide. I'm running a blown 292. Expected HP 550 on pump gas and 750 on race fuel. I have been told that at 800 the crankshaft will leave the building without dowelling the mains. I know of 3 guys running 1000 HP out of their 292's. I already own the rotisserie. I'm keeping my leaf springs so it just seems simpler to use the frame rails because of all the mounting. I like Mr 48's idea of setting the boxing back a little for lines and wiring. There is a youtub video out there of a guy in a 48 chevy pickup running an 8.44 sec with leaf springs and 1000 HP

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by mick53

Sorry I didn't mention that some classes of racing (probably mine) require original frame rails, radiator in original position, working doors. Engine may only be moved rearward for fitment only, about 8" for me and widening the fenders only for tire fitment. I will be staying under 11.5" wide. I'm running a blown 292. Expected HP 550 on pump gas and 750 on race fuel. I have been told that at 800 the crankshaft will leave the building without dowelling the mains. I know of 3 guys running 1000 HP out of their 292's. I already own the rotisserie. I'm keeping my leaf springs so it just seems simpler to use the frame rails because of all the mounting. I like Mr 48's idea of setting the boxing back a little for lines and wiring. There is a youtub video out there of a guy in a 48 chevy pickup running an 8.44 sec with leaf springs and 1000 HP

sounds like one heck of a motor, looking forward to seeing it and the build process