Help please, Rear drop shocks won’t stretch far enough

[64 rust]

Hey guys, I’m needing some help here. I just put in a 71 rear end in my 64, I also installed 5 inch drop springs, 1.5” blocks, shock relocation brackets, and new shocks...Everything was going smooth until it was time to hook the bottom of the shock to the relocation bracket and it doesn’t stretch far enough. This kit came off of the 71 with the rear end so should all fit, only thing I added are the lowering blocks. It does look like I’m about 1.5” off. Could that be it and I need longer drop shocks or am I completely missing something?? I have read and watched thread after thread trying to find a solution, any help is greatly appreciated. I measured the shock extended at 13.5” if that helps.
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[The Rocknrod]

The top of the shock is attached to the x-member/chassis. The bottom bracket moves with the rear end up or down.
Did you lift the rear end by itself?

[64 rust]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

The top of the shock is attached to the x-member/chassis. The bottom bracket moves with the rear end up or down.
Did you lift the rear end by itself?

When, I lift the rear end the springs push the frame up too, It keeps it roughly the same distance, I did find a drop Shock that says 15” extended so I think that might be the problem considering the block I added is that distance. Thanks for responding!
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[PGSigns]

Set it on the ground and see what it looks like. The block you added wont change the shock length. You will need a 2 or 3 degree shim to get the pinion angle to where you need it.
Jimmy

[64 rust]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

Set it on the ground and see what it looks like. The block you added wont change the shock length. You will need a 2 or 3 degree shim to get the pinion angle to where you need it.
Jimmy

Thanks for the response, I do need the shim...was planning on using a 2 degree but I was wanting to see the 6 inch drop as my driveshaft is out so I knew it wouldn’t mess anything up. I didn’t think that skinny shim would throw the shock location off that much but we will see. Maybe I will wait on buying a new set of shocks until I get the shim in? Thanks again!
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[63C20Rat]

I am about to be in the same boat. I completely overlooked shims!!! Never crossed my mind truly! Where are you purchasing them and what are you going to use? I’m doing a 4in spring and 2in block
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[64 rust]

Originally Posted by 63C20Rat

I am about to be in the same boat. I completely overlooked shims!!! Never crossed my mind truly! Where are you purchasing them and what are you going to use? I’m doing a 4in spring and 2in block
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[64 rust]

Originally Posted by 63C20Rat

I am about to be in the same boat. I completely overlooked shims!!! Never crossed my mind truly! Where are you purchasing them and what are you going to use? I’m doing a 4in spring and 2in block
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So I found them at a couple different sites, Performance online is who I usually go with but after looking at it all again...the shims aren’t going to make a difference for the shock location. Obviously I’m still going to install the shims(probably 2 degree) to get my correct pinion angle but I’m still needing drop shocks for a 6-7 inch rear drop. After researching, I believe I’m needing a shock that is at least 15 inches extended where is mine is 13.5 and probably not meant for that big of a drop. I also ran into Panhard bar issues, read every thread I could. With a 71 rear end on a 64 frame I will either have to move my frame bracket to a 65-67 bracket I believe or heat and put a slight bend on the adjustable Panhard bar to fit the 64 bracket. Any info or thoughts are much appreciated!!
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[63C20Rat]

Yeah , we’re in the same boat! Lol I have a 63 , that I’m currently building the 1971 GM12T , to put in it. So the issues you’re having unfortunately, are helping me. So I appreciate this a lot. I haven’t purchased shocks yet either . I’ll look into the shims. I have been leaning towards the No limit panhard bar.
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[bigmoe]

Doesn't the bracket in your picture go on the top?

[64 rust]

Originally Posted by bigmoe

Doesn't the bracket in your picture go on the top?

Hey Bigmoe, the relocation brackets are on correctly and in the right spot to accept the shocks, I believe the shocks are for a shorter drop.
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[The Rocknrod]

Just a suggestion, dont purchase a shock until you have the truck on the ground with all the weight on it, pinion angle set etc.
Then measure the static height, not compressed or extended to determine the shocks you need.
I read an inaccurate statement above on shock length that may cause someone to have to purchase another set of shocks once they purchase the wrong length the first (or second) time.
Just sayin.

[64 rust]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Just a suggestion, dont purchase a shock until you have the truck on the ground with all the weight on it, pinion angle set etc.
Then measure the static height, not compressed or extended to determine the shocks you need.
I read an inaccurate statement above on shock length that may cause someone to have to purchase another set of shocks once they purchase the wrong length the first (or second) time.
Just sayin.

Thanks, can you elaborate on the inaccurate statement so we can avoid purchasing the wrong shocks?
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[The Rocknrod]

Your 15 inches extended number may or may not be correct in that the total drop with wood installed etc. at a static stance is unknown as I understand it. Correct?

[64 rust]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Your 15 inches extended number may or may not be correct in that the total drop with wood installed etc. at a static stance is unknown as I understand it. Correct?

I was thinking 15 inches extended would only be enough to bolt them in and not give space for travel. I found some 5-6 inch drop shocks that are 18.11 inches extended, these ought to work out. I think my problem from the get go was the shocks were just too short. I had it on the ground yesterday with about 400 pounds of weight over the axle in the form of my brothers lol and they still wouldn’t reach. As always I appreciate any info or help...at least for the shocks it appears this case is solved.
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[88Stanger]

So, not sure this is the same or different, but i ran into a very interesting issue dealing with shocks. I am install Bags, shock relocation's, adjustable rear trailing arm mounts and so on. I have c-Notched the frame and assumed that this means i need drop shocks, and if i am not mistaken, this is not necessarily true. i found after measuring that a set of beltech Street Performance shocks will work. They go from 12.5" to 19.5". Now i was shocked (no pun intended) to find that after measuring fully up and fully down how much "shock" i needed.
Again, not sure this helps.....

[64 rust]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

So, not sure this is the same or different, but i ran into a very interesting issue dealing with shocks. I am install Bags, shock relocation's, adjustable rear trailing arm mounts and so on. I have c-Notched the frame and assumed that this means i need drop shocks, and if i am not mistaken, this is not necessarily true. i found after measuring that a set of beltech Street Performance shocks will work. They go from 12.5" to 19.5". Now i was shocked (no pun intended) to find that after measuring fully up and fully down how much "shock" i needed.
Again, not sure this helps.....

Yeah, that’s exactly what I figured out, needed a longer shock, thanks for the reply
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[demian5]

Did the upper brackets get put on backwards by mistake? forcing the top of the shock towards the front of the truck more?

[64 rust]

Originally Posted by demian5

Did the upper brackets get put on backwards by mistake? forcing the top of the shock towards the front of the truck more?

No, I made sure all the hardware was installed correctly, I ordered new shocks, be here Thursday and problem solved...knock on wood. I really wish that there was a shock relocation bracket that sat on top of the trailing arm, or maybe there is? The one I have is on under the trailing arm and with 15’s it will be close to hitting if I ever had a flat.
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[The Rocknrod]

Ya they say with 2" lowering blocks and the new lower shock mounts that 15''s are not a good thing.

[64 rust]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Ya they say with 2" lowering blocks and the new lower shock mounts that 15''s are not a good thing.

I went with the 1.5” blocks but my 5” springs are nice and settled in. I feel like I need a 1/2” block to get to where I would not freak out if I hit a pothole or got a flat. That’s on 235/75/15’s...i wanted smaller tires because I like the low but might not be worth it
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 64 rust

I went with the 1.5” blocks but my 5” springs are nice and settled in. I feel like I need a 1/2” block to get to where I would not freak out if I hit a pothole or got a flat. That’s on 235/75/15’s...i wanted smaller tires because I like the low but might not be worth it
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1.5" blocks will put you below the scrub-line w/15" dia wheels. The U-bolt will contact the pavent if the tire blows out or comes off the rim when using original style Truck-Arm U-bolt set-ups. 16" dia wheels barely get you by.

That being said, lots of guys have used them & survived. Just be aware it is a safety issue.

[64 rust]

Yeah I am right below the line, I read all over 15 inch wheels were safe, I’m honestly not worried about it just going to run with 235/75/r15’s, it’s really close to the line just have to be careful
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 64 rust

Yeah I am right below the line, I read all over 15 inch wheels were safe, I’m honestly not worried about it just going to run with 235/75/r15’s, it’s really close to the line just have to be careful
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It's only when there's no tire on the rim that it could dig in to the road surface ( w/a 1.5" block). Just getting a flat w/a tire still on the rim won't let it happen but you have to plan for worst case scenario so OTHERS on the road around you don't get hurt if it happens.

[Trash]

I had the exact same problem with CPP lowering shocks. I ordered the next size bigger and now they fit fine.