Need help with what is involved with deleting VVT and AFM

[ncsurveyor]

I'm trying to order most parts that are required for my swap. I'm putting a 2011 Yukon Denali L94 6.2 in my 68 C10. I spoke with my builder and he is advising to delete the VVT and the AFM but he's not sure if changing anything other than the computer programming is required, he said he thinks it depends on the year of the motor. Can you guys give me some advise and an idea of everything i'll need if it does involve changing parts in the motor? cam, valve springs, lifters, push rods, what else? Also, what do you recommend for a stock style cam, I don't necessarily want anything more aggressive than stock.

Thanks

[mongocanfly]

Vvt delete...
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2017/...-an-ls-engine/

Afm delete...
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2017/...on-gm-engines/

[ncsurveyor]

So the company building my controller kit is telling me I won't have to change anything in the motor. Everything is deleted in their program. Does that sound correct? Seems like everything i'm reading says i'll have to change the cam and lifters.

[skyphix]

In addition to the links Mongo posted above (hugely helpful) - the major LS/LT/etc manufacturers make kits

EDIT: They can disable it in the tune, but the physical components are different. VVT is probably OK to leave the physical components there, but AFM/DOD I would strongly recommend replacing with non-DOD/AFM components due to high failure rates in the DOD/AFM versions.

VVT Deletes
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-724-vvt-delete-kit.aspx
https://briantooleyracing.com/basic-vvt-delete-kit.html
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cmb-09-0027


AFM/DOD Delete
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-7379-d...2-engines.aspx
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...hoCM9EQAvD_BwE

[LS short box]

Hot Rod magazine did a write up on it I think some time in 2019. VVT is fairly easy. I've done a few. Since I was adding a cam I bought the complete kit from Texas Speed. Really not any reason to delete the VVT if you are keeping the engine stock.
The AFM is more work because to do it the "right" you need to replace the AFM lifters, push rods, springs? and I believe the valley cover. I haven't done one but a local guy has done many always replaces the lifters and such. Means you have to pull the heads. Which means you will need new head bolts and head gaskets.
Much easier to do this when the engine is on the engine stand.

[AussieinNC]

LS Short box is 100% correct...so...

You have a choice>

Leave it totally stock and drive for a year or two....

Do the full Conversion with cam, lifters, pushrods, springs and valley cover plus electronic changes to disable the functions in the ECM...

IMHO I would drive it stock...

[kipps]

If you're satisfied with nearly stock performance, and are keeping the stock transmission, intake, computer, etc, then keep VVT. It's not known to cause trouble, and is very useful to maximize low-rpm torque and high-rpm horsepower.

Do a full mechanical delete of the AFM. This will involve swapping the camshaft, all the lifters, lifter trays, valley cover, timing cover gasket, front crank seal, head gaskets, and valve cover gaskets.

There should be a stock-type non-AFM VVT camshaft you can use. The closer to stock you can get, the less tuning will be required once it's all ready to go.

If the engine has very low miles, such as less than 75k, just turn off the AFM in the tune, and leave the mechanical bits in there. Other folks have said that the parts are likely to work fine long-term, if they're not actually being used.

[ncsurveyor]

Thanks guys, I think I’m gonna leave it stock and just drive it. If it was fine for a Denali, it’ll be fine for my C10. I just want a nice dependable ride with some nice power. Not looking for a drag truck. I’ve got a zo6 corvette for my speed fix.