suspension

[4u2nv]

What is this suspension under my 87 k10 short box, it looks way to beefy for a k10.
Is it k20 ????

[kipps]

I've got a 87 v20(same as k20) pickup with stock suspension. The front leafs are nearly flat, not arched like those. It only has two or three leafs in the front, not that stack.

I don't think you can go much by the number of leaves in determining the weight capacity. Different aftermarket companies would build them with different spring rates per leaf, different widths, thicknesses, quantities, etc.

[Mike C]

Aftermarket 4" lift spring with raised steering arm in the front and 4" lift blocks in the rear.

[sweetk30]

Originally Posted by Mike C

Aftermarket 4" lift spring with raised steering arm in the front and 4" lift blocks in the rear.

and a add - a - leaf in the rear also .

what color spring eye bushings up front ? this tends to help id the brand . or is there any stickers or inked on part no's ?

[4u2nv]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

and a add - a - leaf in the rear also .

what color spring eye bushings up front ? this tends to help id the brand . or is there any stickers or inked on part no's ?

I just switched all the bushings out to new ones , they where poly a dull orange colour , didn't see any markings.
Thanks for the help , now I know what's under it.

[sweetk30]

they were prob red before fade out .

could be a few brands of lift that run that color . makes it a bit harder to narrow it down . but if i had to guess off the pack style and leaf count up front and popular for there CHEEP price point rough country . i dont run them tho as there is a reason there so cheep in price . the ride is real stiff over other brands .

['63GENIII]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

and a add - a - leaf in the rear also .

what color spring eye bushings up front ? this tends to help id the brand . or is there any stickers or inked on part no's ?

Good eye on that add a leaf!

[4u2nv]

Another question on the steering , it turns nice and sharp the one way and not near as sharp the other way , couldn't of been like that from original ???

[Richard]

For a quick and easy fix swap the pitman arm on steering box for a 2" drop version and you will be back in the ballpark. It will get the draglink close to level. Might want to think about adding swaybar drop brackets or better yet the ORD swaybar disconnect with shackles. Will help with spring movement.

[sweetk30]

Originally Posted by Richard

For a quick and easy fix swap the pitman arm on steering box for a 2" drop version and you will be back in the ballpark. It will get the draglink close to level. Might want to think about adding swaybar drop brackets or better yet the ORD swaybar disconnect with shackles. Will help with spring movement.

x2 on this info . just dont let the link get level or slopped to the box from the axle . or you will get bump steer problems.

and more info on 6" = rear block at 3.5"-4" and a ADD-A-LEAF = 6"

[57taskforce]

Yea that looks stock to me, personally I’m a bigger fan of the raised steering arm on the axle but that’s just my opinion.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

Yea that looks stock to me, personally I’m a bigger fan of the raised steering arm on the axle but that’s just my opinion.

If you look at the first pics he already has a raised steering arm. Because springs are 6"+, more correction is necessary to get stock type turning at ride height.
@4u2nv Pitman arm on steering box is stock. Change it to a 2" drop. As I mentioned the steering arm has already been changed.

[sweetk30]

and sway bar kit from one of these guys to avoid the drop brackets .

yes stock box / pitman arm . needs a drop arm now i see that angle .

steering shock is on the bottom of the axle bracket . needs to set on top of the bracket . pull bolt and move on top and reinstall bolt and good to go .

disconect kit https://www.offroaddesign.com/swayba...gm-trucks.html

but side note our square truck this tall and spring packs like you have now the sway bar does almost nothing so lots of guys just remove them . the stock gm springs were real soft and these lift springs are stiffer and dont need it as much . but thats personal preference . that sway bar the way it is now is got the front end so bound up from pulling forward and then the shackles wana flex back its fighting its self .

i run a k10 with 1ton axles and 6" lift / 3" body lift and 38x12.50x16.5 tsl swampers for years no sway bar and no problems .

and if you dont have one up in there get one of these quick before the frame breaks .

73-80 frame https://www.offroaddesign.com/bolt-i...wd-trucks.html

81-87-91 frame https://www.offroaddesign.com/bolt-i...wd-trucks.html

[4u2nv]

Thanks all , looks like I will be doing some changes.
By removing the front sway bar will that improve some ride quality ???

[sweetk30]

Originally Posted by 4u2nv

Thanks all , looks like I will be doing some changes.
By removing the front sway bar will that improve some ride quality ???

remove or do the disconect kit yes it will let the axle move more the way it needs to .

think of it in its current setup its holding it in 1 place and not letting it flex .

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by Richard

If you look at the first pics he already has a raised steering arm. Because springs are 6"+, more correction is necessary to get stock type turning at ride height.
@4u2nv Pitman arm on steering box is stock. Change it to a 2" drop. As I mentioned the steering arm has already been changed.

Good catch Richard, I only skimmed over everything and had to go back and re read it all. I missed the first time around he was that high. The dropped pitman will get you a lot closer, however if you can swing it, I’d look into crossover. I bet as a whole you’d be happier with that route, it’s pretty pricy though so I get that side of it.

[Richard]

Good recommendations by 57taskforce and sweetk30. By to look of your front springs they are of the stiffer variety. I am installing crossover on my truck. It is nice but I do not think it is necessary without a flexy suspension. I will have a 4 link with coilovers. As far as the swaybar, removing it would help as much as adding the disconnect kit. Obviously removing it is cheaper than adding the disconnect kit. Removing it costs nothing but time. You can put it back in.

[kwmech]

The shock should be parallel like the drag link. Remove the shock from the axle housing mount and put it on top, 1 nut and lockwasher-- rotate the shock housing, tighten nut from bottom----will take about 4-5 minutes

[4u2nv]

About the steering again , could it be that someone ahead of me has the amount of turns on the steering wheel each way wrong , if you know what I mean .

[sweetk30]

adjuster on drag link / pitman to axle arm is for centering the steering wheel only .

the problem with lifted stock push/pull steering is the limit one direction gets less and less the taller you go . and to magnify the problem start flexing the suspension and it gets even worse to the point of maxed out steering and no way to make it turn .

this is why crossover conversion is the best if taller than 5-6" range and any real off road use .

[4u2nv]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

adjuster on drag link / pitman to axle arm is for centering the steering wheel only .

the problem with lifted stock push/pull steering is the limit one direction gets less and less the taller you go . and to magnify the problem start flexing the suspension and it gets even worse to the point of maxed out steering and no way to make it turn .

this is why crossover conversion is the best if taller than 5-6" range and any real off road use .

Thanx, you have been a great help

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by Richard

Good recommendations by 57taskforce and sweetk30. By to look of your front springs they are of the stiffer variety. I am installing crossover on my truck. It is nice but I do not think it is necessary without a flexy suspension. I will have a 4 link with coilovers. As far as the swaybar, removing it would help as much as adding the disconnect kit. Obviously removing it is cheaper than adding the disconnect kit. Removing it costs nothing but time. You can put it back in.

To add to that, if you’ve indeed got a set of stiff front springs, which I agree it does look that way, the front sway bar likely isn’t doing that much for you anyway. The spring rates are probably high enough that body roll isn’t as much of a concern. I know it’s a bit of a debated topic but Really I don’t see the need for them in most leaf spring front end applications. There’s a few /situations like with a heavy over roof camper or something similar where the sways are helpful. The 67-72 K trucks never had them and I’ve never driven one and said, “damn I really need a sway bar”. With coil springs or IFS they are a pretty important part of highway manners for sure.

[4u2nv]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

To add to that, if you’ve indeed got a set of stiff front springs, which I agree it does look that way, the front sway bar likely isn’t doing that much for you anyway. The spring rates are probably high enough that body roll isn’t as much of a concern. I know it’s a bit of a debated topic but Really I don’t see the need for them in most leaf spring front end applications. There’s a few /situations like with a heavy over roof camper or something similar where the sways are helpful. The 67-72 K trucks never had them and I’ve never driven one and said, “damn I really need a sway bar”. With coil springs or IFS they are a pretty important part of highway manners for sure.

Oh they are stiff, I'm surprised the front windshield is still in it , LOL

[Richard]

Try this- turn steering lock to lock counting the turns. May be easier putting front axle on stands. Depending on the box installed should be around 3.5-4.5 turns. Position steering travel in the middle, ignore steering wheel position at this time. Adjust draglink until wheels are pointed straight. You should be able to pull the wheel from the column and re-position to make it straight. With the short draglink angled down bump steer will be more pronounced and you will loose additional steering one way at full droop or full compression. Most likely fine for highway driving.

[sweetk30]

Originally Posted by Richard

Try this- You should be able to pull the wheel from the column and re-position to make it straight. .

you have never had the wheel off then have you ? gm indexed a few items so there all playing off the master spline spot . yes you can move the wheel but the horn button pass threw wont line up and the lock plate cant be moved easy .

its just the nature of modifications one thing leads to another .