47-59 Steering arms and tie rods.

[1project2many]

I'm working on a project to install 3/4 ton steering arms in my 1/2 ton truck. I can't seem to find the right information. I believe 1/2Ton trucks use ball studs on tie rod ends. The studs are swaged into the steering arms and can only be removed by drilling. But 3/4 ton trucks use tapered seats in the steering arms.

So it should be possible to install 3/4 ton arms on the 1/2 ton truck by (1) installing ball studs in the 3/4 ton arms or (2) changing tie rod ends. If I were to go with option 2, are the tie rods the same diameter between 3/4t and 1/2t trucks?

[mr48chev]

To be honest, in my 47 years of owning one of these trucks and soaking up every piece of info on them I could I have never seen mention of doing that or attempting it until your post.

It seems that if it worked guys would have been doing it for years.

There are kits out there to swap to regular modern tie rod ends.

Here is an example https://www.performanceonline.com/19...LACEMENT-TYPE/

[nvrdone]

i tried to use 3/4 t arms on my 1/2 ton and they didnt fit. the bolt hole spacing on the spindles is different between 1/2 & 3/4 t. I ground off my ball studs and replaced them with tie rod ends from napa. p/n's are ncd2692003 & 2004 left & right. Then i got the tie rod made up by a local Jeep shop. the tie rod ends are a straight shaft so can be mounted from the top or bottom. I mounted mine from the bottom to clear the springs on a 3" dropped axle. easy conversion. good luck

[1project2many]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

i tried to use 3/4 t arms on my 1/2 ton and they didnt fit. the bolt hole spacing on the spindles is different between 1/2 & 3/4 t. I ground off my ball studs and replaced them with tie rod ends from napa. p/n's are ncd2692003 & 2004 left & right. Then i got the tie rod made up by a local Jeep shop. the tie rod ends are a straight shaft so can be mounted from the top or bottom. I mounted mine from the bottom to clear the springs on a 3" dropped axle. easy conversion. good luck

Your reply came in while I was typing.

Sounds like a good solution. Those TRE's won't work with my tie rod without a sleeve. A tapered reamer isn't too much so if the aftermarket TRE's have the right thread they're an option. Right now my factory tre's are tight.

Do you remember how far off the bolt holes were between spindle and 3/4t arm? Do you still have the 3/4 ton parts?

[1project2many]

To be honest, in my 47 years of owning one of these trucks and soaking up every piece of info on them I could I have never seen mention of doing that or attempting it until your post.

You're right. I don't think most folks are looking at making an improvement here. What we usually see is folks looking to ditch the solid axle in trade for some version of IFS. I'm happy to keep the solid axle because I believe it can be improved. I noticed years ago that the LH steering arm flexes on the TF when anything besides skinny bias-ply tires are installed. The 1/2T steering arm is smaller than the 3/4T arm so I'm hoping to get 3/4T parts and see what's involved in making the swap.

I've had a custom made 1" tie rod on my truck since the early '90s. It fits the stock 1/2 ton tie rod ends. So far I haven't found the thread size for the aftermarket tie rod ends you linked to. If they fit my tie rod this will be a much easier swap.

[nvrdone]

i think the spacing was off by about 3/8" but dont quote me. sorry, i dont have the arms. I thought about welding the holes closed and re drilling but a friend who is an automotive machenist talked me out of it. the tie rod i had made is 1" tube that is used for steering on off road jeeps so it must be strong.

[1project2many]

1" tube is stronger than 1" solid steel. That was a good choice.

Thanks for the information.

[mr48chev]

I'd say that Nvrdone's answer explains my answer. it doesn't work.

The replacement ends have been around since the 80's at least and I know a number of guys who have used them even though I have never installed a set.

Any job shop machine shop can make a tie rod like Nvrdone had made plus a lot of rod shops can make one to length. The issue there is the left hand threads in one end.

I just kept my stock stuff greased and adjusted them when they got a tad loose. I put probably 150 K on the truck with that axle under it wearing out two sets of king pins between 1989 and 2003 when the engine was so worn out it wouldn't run anymore.

I'm thinking that a lot of guys do change out to the more modern style ends but it isn't a big deal that they talk about a lot. Just a rather simple change to replace worn pieces or in some cases to get a bit more tire clearance than the stock ends give. I had to run spacers on the truck with 205 tires to have clearance between the tire and the end but can slip by with 195 tires.

[1project2many]

I'd say that Nvrdone's answer explains my answer. it doesn't work.

Telling me not to consider modifying parts is only a little less effective than telling Mt St. Helens not to erupt. You may think you're successful until you realize it was pointless all along.

I'm likely to try and find an inexpensive set of arms to work with. If I have to I can build a brace for the LH arm but the RH arm is going to be a bit tougher to triangulate.

You haven't been your usual happy self lately. Not sure what's going on but you're really coming down hard on folks here on the forum. Everything ok?

[nvrdone]

1project: im re reading your post on the tie rod ends. Since the 3/4t arms dont fit the 1/2t axle, i wonder if 3/4t spindles would fit on the 1/2t axle. that way you could use the heavier arms. im wondering why you think you need heavier arms or to reinforce the 1/2t arms. are you using some 40 series low profile tires on the front? is there some flex in the steering??? Ive got 225/70/15's on my front end and the original steering box. its tight and tracks well. the only problem is when i try to turn at slow speeds or parallel park. then it takes some arm strength. Just wondering what your concerns are.

[1project2many]

Since the 3/4t arms dont fit the 1/2t axle, i wonder if 3/4t spindles would fit on the 1/2t axle.

Fair question. I know 3/4 ton axles use larger diameter king pins. The spindles could be bushed to accept smaller king pins. I do not know if 3/4 tons use larger bearings but I think the game will get more complicated if I have to manipulate brakes and drums, hubs, number of wheel studs, etcetera.

im wondering why you think you need heavier arms or to reinforce the 1/2t arms. are you using some 40 series low profile tires on the front? is there some flex in the steering??? Ive got 225/70/15's on my front end and the original steering box. its tight and tracks well. the only problem is when i try to turn at slow speeds or parallel park. then it takes some arm strength. Just wondering what your concerns are.

Most folks go after the obvious parts when working with the stock front end. Tie rod and steering box are generally first on the list and for good reason. These help but if you're in an area with rough roads you still get to play the game of bouncing sideways out of bumps, being pulled across ruts, and generally having to apply too much steering input.

I have worked on light and medium duty trucks for many years. The game we play with the 1/2 ton Chevy is not present in many other vehicles with solid axles. Folks want to blame the solid axle and leaf springs but these aren't the issue. Buses and trucks weighing 5X what our little pickups weigh do not have the same problem yet they use solid axles with leaf springs.

Years ago I put a GMC power steering system into a TF. GMC used a power steering box rather than a power assist cylinder. The truck was running a large set of Mickey Thompson bias plys. I saw first hand that the forged steering arm was flexing allowing over 1/8" movement of the drag link without corresponding movement in the wheel. Since then I've been able to demonstrate on a number of occasions that it takes very little force to cause that arm to flex. I'm not a superhero and if I can do it in the shop then I guarantee it's happening on the road.

Roads around these parts are rough. They're full of potholes and often heavily rutted. Driving the truck in traffic can mean the road is in charge. I'm ready to try and change that.

[nvrdone]

ok, i understand where you're coming from. even as well set up as mine is, it can still follow ruts and bounce out of pot holes.