Trans line mods

[Barnfind46]

Hey all.
I cut my metal trans lines to add an additional cooler. the bottom line now runs fluid through the new cooler and then it runs through the radiator as always. I put double hose clamps on the rubber line but this morning it blew the hose off. I was pulling into the shop so I caught it before any damage. Is there a way to add a bulge or swell to the metal line so the hose and clamp will not slide off? The truck has been driven three thousand miles after the install. I could reinstall it like it was but I will worry about it. What would you guys do?

[kwmech]

I'd put a 5/16 nut on it, double flare like a brake line then screw on a hose fitting like it originally had. Next time don't cut it. If the aux cooler fails you could have by-passed it without a lot of drama

[tj1970cst]

You could use a crush fitting and a barb.

You could flare it, then put on your rubber hose and 2 clamps.

[Davidf]

The PO said the trans fluid passes through the aux cooler and then the radiator. It seems this is backwards as the fluid will always enter the trans at the same temp as the radiator. I.e. the radiator might raise the temp of the fluid. So, radiator first, then the aux cooler.

I add bulges to metal lines by only performing the first step of a double flare.

[geezer#99]

I do the ‘poor man’s’ single flare!
Poke a piece of round stock or bigger Phillips screwdriver inside about an inch, bend it up against the inside edge of the tube and go around the inside a couple times. Makes a slight raised circle to hold the hose on leak free.

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

I do the ‘poor man’s’ single flare!
Poke a piece of round stock or bigger Phillips screwdriver inside about an inch, bend it up against the inside edge of the tube and go around the inside a couple times. Makes a slight raised circle to hold the hose on leak free.

I would think this approach would leave a sharp edge on the line that could cut into the hose.

[kaycee]

Poor mans way I use a punch ,one that has a point then flares out bigger as it goes toward the handle never had one blow off. Allso I run into rad. then to the cooler then back to trans.

[Big Kev-O]

The best way to do this without buying tools is to use a compression fitting & hose barb fitting. $15 at the local hardware store is cheap insurance on a long trip. If the OP had a flare tool he would not be asking this question.

Yes you can jury rig/flare out the hard pipe and slide the hose over it and may be good for 10 years. OR it may leak slowly and fail hundreds of miles away from home in a blizzard(my luck).

[Andy4639]

I have never had any problems with flaring the end of the tube and slipping the hose over it with 2 clamps 180* out from each other.

Putting a compression fitting & hose barb fitting is OK also. either one should hold fine as long as done right.

The trans fluid should go through the radiator first then the add on to cool it down good. Chevy performance states anything over 200* is bad for the life of a transmission. I ran my 700-R4 like stated and it had right at 300,000 on it when I pulled it out.

[mrein3]

Two points.
1. I had an auxiliary cooler line blow off. It does not take long to pump a transmission dry. I used the rubber hose supplied by the manufacturer of the auxiliary cooler. That is what failed. I then bent hard lines to reach out to the auxiliary cooler then double clamped very short pieces of rubber hose. That was about 15 years ago. Maybe 20.

2. Regarding how to plumb in an auxiliary transmission cooler. In a cold climate like where I live you want to run the hot fluid to the auxiliary cooler then to the radiator then back to the transmission. In the winter you can have transmission fluid that is too cold. The radiator helps warm it up on a cold day. In warmer climates run it to the radiator then the auxiliary cooler.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by Davidf

I would think this approach would leave a sharp edge on the line that could cut into the hose.

Nah!
Won’t happen unless you cut the tubing with the wrong tool.
If you got a burr on it before or after just dress it with a file.

[MARKDTN]

I use my Mastercool tool and make a quick-connect flare but don't go all the way so it is not as tall as a quick connect. It gives a nice ridge that the hose will slide over but the clamp won't slip off of. I wish Mastercool just made a die to do a barb. I think they would sell a lot.

I did a bit more research because this is a needed thing for low pressure. The proper tool for this is a beading tool and the Parker kit is the gold standard apparently.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...parkerbead.php

Still think Mastercool tool should be able to do it if they made a die for it.

[firedemon]

https://www.amazon.com/Earls-Perform...J602NF51X3CE0D

i know theese used to be available in 3/8 and 5/16 and half inch . super easy super fast but spendy

[Barnfind46]

I looked up the tool Firedemon mentioned but it looks like it is for aluminum only. Summit carries it. might be of some help to some one doing a new build.