Ramp truck no heat

[Andy4639]

I noticed a few weeks ago that the Ramp truck had no heat except when I let it sit idling for a bit but after a few minutes of driving nothing. So today I took the water neck off and the thermostat was laying in the intake. So I bought a new one along with a new hose Gates#(22043) it's for a dodge ram truck but it worked great. I cut the one end off of it. I never did like the old hose that was on it.
They didn't have 185* thermostat so I got the 195* instead. I now have the temperature gauge reading about half way across on the gauge. I'm OK with it but I think the 185* would have put it right at the hash mark where I like for it to be.
Maybe needs a 180*.

Next project will be moving the alternator to drivers side and putting a 3 wire system back in it so it charges properly.

[hugger6933]

Andy the hose looks great. yeah that thermostat isnt gonna work too well like that. I had to put one in my 07 a few weeks back that dang thing was $40 bucks. I looked and I knew I had one laying around in an old pump but couldnt find it until I got the new one in then found my other. I wish you were closer I still would like to find a cart with a bad motor I still am kicking myself for selling my Marathon I had the V-twin for it too but that was stolen from me. Sorry I dont know why I'm rambling Late . Jim

[BRL]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

...I looked and I knew I had one laying around in an old pump but couldnt find it until I got the new one in then found my other...

Jim

Always seems to work like that doesn't it.

WOW, I never seen a thermostat do that before!

[ChevyRacefan]

did you push the stat into the intake, or did it find it's own way down there?
Is the intake so rusted that it can get down there?

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by ChevyRacefan

did you push the stat into the intake, or did it find it's own way down there?
Is the intake so rusted that it can get down there?

It fell into the intake. It came a part.

[Barnfind46]

Made in china?

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by Barnfind46

Made in china?

No doubt!

[Andy4639]

I guess some time before summer I will swap the thermostat for a 180* one so the gauge reads correct. I took these of the temperature gauge and hose while the truck was idling. I had drove it and it was good and warm. Sitting in the yard it looks fine but I'd like the neddle back down to the hash mark.

The old thermostat was 180*. It was always on the hash mark.
The new hose for a dodge Ram truck is what I bought for it and cut the piece off of it in my hand. It look so much better than that old wire hose that fits all.

[ChevyRacefan]

I would leave the 195* in it. If it was on the hash mark with the 180* it was never warmed up, and That isn't good for long engine life.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by ChevyRacefan

I would leave the 195* in it. If it was on the hash mark with the 180* it was never warmed up, and That isn't good for long engine life.

The hash mark is the fully warm mark for these trucks.

[ChevyRacefan]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

The hash mark is the fully warm mark for these trucks.

And part of the reason the engines needed a rebuild at 100k or less.
There is a reason they move to the 195* and engines started to last 150k+ without trying. But whatever works for you is good.
I tend to think the group of factory engineers might just know more than me.
And when the outcome produces longer average live spans, with no down side. I tend to use it. Your build has a bunch of later model features added because they are better than what was offered originally. So who am I to question your opinion.
Did you put a temp gun on the hot side hose to know what temp it was when the gauge showed at the hash mark? I have 2 oem temp gauges, and they don't read the same, one shows 1/8th" difference in where the needle sits when warmed up, than the other gauge. So my trust in (at least) my factory gauges is nill.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by ChevyRacefan

And part of the reason the engines needed a rebuild at 100k or less.
There is a reason they move to the 195* and engines started to last 150k+ without trying. But whatever works for you is good.
I tend to think the group of factory engineers might just know more than me.
And when the outcome produces longer average live spans, with no down side. I tend to use it. Your build has a bunch of later model features added because they are better than what was offered originally. So who am I to question your opinion.
Did you put a temp gun on the hot side hose to know what temp it was when the gauge showed at the hash mark? I have 2 oem temp gauges, and they don't read the same, one shows 1/8th" difference in where the needle sits when warmed up, than the other gauge. So my trust in (at least) my factory gauges is nill.

1/8" difference are you kidding me!

First off this isn't in my 71 C-10 truck with the Computer controlled LS 6.0 in it. Yes I agree the truck with a computer needs to run hotter to make better power.

A 50 year old 350 however does not. The motor is running fine and the 195* thermostat is fine. I'd just like it to read where the engineer back in 67 said it's needs to be which is the hash mark.
The thermostat by the way only begins to open at 195* so the the temperature could be over 220*. Which is still OK but not what the engineer in 67 wanted it to be. Also this summer when it's in the 90's here it could be be over 220 mark easy. As you said your self the engineer's know more than we do so I do tend to trust them more. Thanks for your opinion though.

[gmc684x4]

The old guys i grew up around used to swap 180 in summer and 195 in winter I quickly realized it was better just to run the 195 year around insure water pump and rad where good with no leaks
Only once in 30 some years I had over heat issues on a hot day with a traffic jam for miles my 70 so 4x4 had no shroud and only an old 4 blade fan

[Andy4639]

180* should be plenty for here in SC. It never had a problem getting warm enough on cold days. I just guessed at the wrong thermostat when I bought it. I may go 185* though.


http://www.carnut.com/ramblin/_cool3.html

[kwmech]

If you can remember way back (like myself) the engines running at the colder temps had a tendency to sludge the oil up because the engine did not get hot enough to purge the moisture. So with the modern oils and higher temps you do not see that any more. Pennzoil and and STP were a hostile combination

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by kwmech

If you can remember way back (like myself) the engines running at the colder temps had a tendency to sludge the oil up because the engine did not get hot enough to purge the moisture. So with the modern oils and higher temps you do not see that any more. Pennzoil and and STP were a hostile combination

I agree with some of what you say. The truck has always ran good though. There is no build up in the valve covers are at least not the last time I had them off anyway. From what I have read staying at 180* thermostat is the lowest you should go in any vehicle and never go without one. 180* is when it should open but the motor temp can be up to 200 are more even with the 180* thermostat. So it shouldn't be any problem.
As I pointed out it will read on the gauge where it's suppose to also.
If I leave the 195* in it it's a guessing game when the temperature does start to rise because there are no marks to go by. So unless your looking at it all the time then your guessing as to where the needle should be.I perfer to have a quick glance and know for sure by the hash mark.

[Andy4639]

Took these after driving it to town and back. 45* outside. It barely got to 199* at the water neck with a 195* thermostat! This was sitting idling in the yard.
199 was water neck, 159 was top of radiatorand the bottom hose was 150. The aluminium radiator is doing a good job on keeping things cool that's for sure.

I got the brass 3/8 vacuum fitting but no filter. I have to order one.