Front diff dana 44 yoke removal and seal install

[conoco]

Could some please run me through the proper way to replace the oil seal behind my differential. I have read so many things and mostly it refers to the fana 44 on Jeeps which I dont know if it is the same for my truck. I have pulled the drive line and I am going to replace the ujoints just because they are old and would be nice to do. I wasnt sure if there are any special tools I need, if so I can get them tomorrow. Here is the process I was going to use but decided to stop and ask before I mess something up.
1 Remove drive line ujoints
2 Chisel Mark's so I know how everything came off and I can reset it.
Pull yoke nut, I tried but was unable to, my impact gun isnt strong enough and wasnt sure if I should use a breaker bar to get it loose. I have read conflicting things on that.
3 once nut is off use a pool puller to get the yoke off,
4 change seal ( I got this part down)
5 reinstall yoke
6 set nut to the Mark's I made before taking it off and go an 1/8 past the marks.
7 done.


My question are
Do I need to raise the front end to do this
Should I check preload before I take everything off.
Is it a good idea to use a breaker bar to get the nut off

Any help running me through the process would be greatly appreciated. I feel pretty dumb asking about something that seems pretty strait forward. I guess I just couldnt pull the trigger after reading all the stuff online about guys really screwing things up for a number of reason. Just though I would ask before I'm a statistic lol. Thank you everyone.

[gmc684x4]

I would make a yolk holding tool with all 4 holes simaler to this speedway one with a long handle that can reach the ground

You also need a 1/4 inch bar type torque wrench to measure inch lbs to check bearing preload gm has new and used bearing preload specs rough memory from the last 10 bolt I fixed was around 20 inch lbs rotational force


https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjus...ool,27127.html

[gmc684x4]

Here is a walk through its on a fbody the steps will be pretty much the same

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/repl...e-pinion-seal/

[57taskforce]

If you go the inch lb torque wrench route you have to disassemble the entire front axle and remove the axle shafts and carrier. If you want to go that route it’s fine but I’ve always just torqued the nut to 100ftlbs or so and never had a problem. 100 ftlbs isn’t going to move the crush sleeve any more and won’t change the diff setup. Ive done several like this and never had a problem at all. My jeep doesn’t have lock outs and the front ring and pinion turn all the time. It’s been Nearly 100,000 miles since I did the seal this way and never had any noise or any other issues. If the axle is still in the truck(sounds like it is) just lock the hubs in and use a breaker bar to get it loosened up to where you impact will pull it. I’ve never used a puller on the yoke either normally they just pop off. I did the seal on mine last spring and have had no issues at all.

[conoco]

Thank you everyone! I will tackle this today. Much appreciated

[conoco]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

If you go the inch lb torque wrench route you have to disassemble the entire front axle and remove the axle shafts and carrier. If you want to go that route it’s fine but I’ve always just torqued the nut to 100ftlbs or so and never had a problem. 100 ftlbs isn’t going to move the crush sleeve any more and won’t change the diff setup. Ive done several like this and never had a problem at all. My jeep doesn’t have lock outs and the front ring and pinion turn all the time. It’s been Nearly 100,000 miles since I did the seal this way and never had any noise or any other issues. If the axle is still in the truck(sounds like it is) just lock the hubs in and use a breaker bar to get it loosened up to where you impact will pull it. I’ve never used a puller on the yoke either normally they just pop off. I did the seal on mine last spring and have had no issues at all.

Thanks again. Everything went smooth. I followed what you had said making sure I marked everything. When I put the pinion nut back on I used lock tight and tightened just a little bit past my mark. I have not taken it on the highway yet but I drove it around town and it isnt leaking so far. Thanks again

[57taskforce]

Awesome, I’m glad it worked for you. I believe it’s a little harder to hurt them when tightening everything up than some people make it sound. Obviously if you crank on it to much youll crush the sleeve more but a little common sense goes a long way here. Definitely a good call on the locktite. I did the same on mine but forgot to mention that part. A new nut is ideal but I’ve never had an issue with red locktite on mine.