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12-22-2003, 02:53 AM | #1 |
Some like em' long!
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Grace, Idaho
Posts: 69
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desperate for help!
ok, this is on my 82 chevy, but i figure that there may be someone out there that can help me out. the truck has a brand new 900 amp Optima battery, a new 63 amp alternator (second one actually), and a brand new crankshaft and water pump pulley.
NOW for the problem. since i have bought the truck, it has gone through 5 alternator belts! all belts have gone at night with all accesories on (lights, radio, heater, and sometimes with the wipers on also). what happens, is what seams to be an intermintent problem. yesterday, I drove to my brothers house which is 20 miles from mine, all accesories on and everything ok. go to leave so i let it idle for about ten minutes to warm things up good. kick on the headlights and the first few times i slowed down for a stoplight, lights go dim and volt meter drops to 12 volts. get going again and volt meter takes a few blocks till it jumps up to 14 volts again, then i gotta stop and drop off some video returns.get going again and volt meter drops AGAIN, except this time it takes about a mile for it to get back to normal along with some squealing and burnt belt smell. so, ten miles later i stop at a buddies house to visit for just a minute. went to leave, starts ok, and is all good till i kick on the headlights, then the sqealing begins. and doesnt stop, more belt burning, volt gauge still at 12 volts. get about two miles and no more squealing because of no more belt. well it was colder than he!!, so i kept cruisin home (8 more miles) at night with all accesories on cuz it was freakin cold. got home safe and sound, the optima saved my a$$. started it today and put it in the shop to hopefully finally figure this thing out before i drive it anywhere again. this is really long but all help is appreciated because i have done everything i can possibly think of and checked about a million things. thanks chevyforever
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1971 chevy c10 lwb- 300 hp 350 crate motor, soon to be more with ported and polished 62cc chamber 461 double humps, TH400, 3.73 posi, used to be my uncle's truck 1972 chevy k10 lwb- 350,4 spd, old and tired, dad bought brand new and is now mine 1968 chevy c20 lwb- 327, 4 spd, was originally a 50th anniversary truck 1990 GMC K1500-just my runaround truck 1982 Chevy K10 shortbed, new motor and new paint, another project in the mix of the others. IMPORTS SUCK! |
12-22-2003, 03:13 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: missouri city, tx
Posts: 4,486
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are you sure the alternator is putting out enough amps? belt too tight? belt slipping? i dotn know im guessing...
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70 longbed 496/th400/Ford 9" |
12-22-2003, 04:05 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada
Posts: 2,048
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i wonder if you belt pulleys are out of align???
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12-22-2003, 04:19 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The Rubber City
Posts: 5,498
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it didn't overheat?
in my old POS festiva, I could only make it about one mile after the alt belt had snapped, when it started to get "warm" and this was in wintertime, too. i know, apples and oranges...but Im just curious. is your alt belt fully tightened? after you changed it, did you go back a day or two later and retighten?
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1969 GMC K2500 1996 Honda Accord 2007 Kawasaki KLR 650 Last edited by 1969 GMC; 12-22-2003 at 04:22 AM. |
12-22-2003, 04:24 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: So. Cal.
Posts: 389
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I would say that you are trying to get too much from your alternator. I would replace it with a 100 amp unit.
Either that or don't drive with all accessories on.
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1968 Chev SWB with 1998 Corvette LS1 305hp and 320 ftlb to the wheels (stock engine!) AEM EMS and wideband O2 sensors Bowtie Overdrive's 700R4, stage 3 Baer 4 wheel discs and 20s http://iciclelanding.com/aperture?album=2049&view=album |
12-22-2003, 04:26 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: So. Cal.
Posts: 389
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An easy way to check for misalignment is to use a long straight edge and start taking measurements. That should tell you if everything is square or not. that's the only other thing I can think of.
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1968 Chev SWB with 1998 Corvette LS1 305hp and 320 ftlb to the wheels (stock engine!) AEM EMS and wideband O2 sensors Bowtie Overdrive's 700R4, stage 3 Baer 4 wheel discs and 20s http://iciclelanding.com/aperture?album=2049&view=album |
12-23-2003, 01:30 AM | #7 |
Some like em' long!
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Grace, Idaho
Posts: 69
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no, i didnt have any overheating problems because the power steering belt goes over the water pump also (a/c setup) all pulleys are lined up perfect and belts were tightened, ran, and then retightened. BUT, i think i found the problem tonight after work. The "voltage reference" (red) wire going to the regulator inside the alternator is hooked up to the starter on the same stud as the big battery positive wire. well, the nut was almost completely off the stud on the starter and the battery wire was on a bind enough that it would still start good, but the other wire was just barely hangin in there. now, i threw on a spare belt i had and fired it up. everything ok so far. i can idle the truck with radio, lights, and heater on and the volt gauge never drops one bit, also can hear the alternator working (whining).
gonna drive it somemore and hope for the best. what do you think? could this have been the problem? chevyforever
__________________
1971 chevy c10 lwb- 300 hp 350 crate motor, soon to be more with ported and polished 62cc chamber 461 double humps, TH400, 3.73 posi, used to be my uncle's truck 1972 chevy k10 lwb- 350,4 spd, old and tired, dad bought brand new and is now mine 1968 chevy c20 lwb- 327, 4 spd, was originally a 50th anniversary truck 1990 GMC K1500-just my runaround truck 1982 Chevy K10 shortbed, new motor and new paint, another project in the mix of the others. IMPORTS SUCK! |
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