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12-22-2003, 12:10 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,415
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Measuring leaf springs-Is this right?
I am about to order drop spindles and leaf springs for my truck, so I was trying to measure the length of the rear springs. In my glove compartment, on the sticker with the list of options, it says "G50 Heavy duty rear sp" or something like that. I have 4 leaves (leafs?) plus the overload.
I was expecting this to be 56" springs, but when I follow directions for measuring them that I was given on CT recently, they measure 52" eye to eye. I measured it in a straight line from eye to eye when the truck was sitting with the wheels on the ground. Am I doing this right? I don't want to get the wrong springs. Slonaker |
12-22-2003, 01:54 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 1,615
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What measurement do you get eye to eye but measuring by following the arch of the spring? I think that's the correct way. I think if you are planning to get a regular C-10 spring it's 52 " and if you have the heavy duty set up, it is 56". If you get the shorter one, you just have to use the other mounting holes.
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Mitch 1978 Chevrolet Silverado C 10 454 BB, TH400 |
12-22-2003, 03:30 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,415
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I expected to need to measure along the arch of the spring. After all, that is the only way to get a consistent measurement. A straight line measurement from eye to eye will vary depending on the load on the spring. The folks on CT told me I was wrong, and that you measure in a straight line from eye to eye. I want to make sure I get this right so I don't have to ship the springs back.
My understanding is that if I have the wrong length springs, I just move the hanger. I assume this requires busting the rivets and bolting the hanger into the right position. I have tennis elbow in both arms, and don't want to do any more hammering than I have to since i am planning to rebuild the front end at the same time. I figure that the front end work already will require as much hammering as I can do. Slonaker |
12-22-2003, 05:48 PM | #4 |
Robert Olson Transport
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: recent transplant to NC USA
Posts: 20,310
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i measured using the arch of the spring and had no problem but id staple a note to the order form and show them how ya measured that should help them ship the right thing
by the way recently i changed the cab mounts on my chassis if ya wind up having to bust the rivets if ya use a dremel and cut off wheels ot cut off a good chunk of the rivet it cuts down alot of the stress of trying to chisel off the entire rivet first one i tried just chiseling the rivet and damn near gave myself a coronoary rest went quick when i did it the dremel way
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Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!! |
12-22-2003, 06:50 PM | #5 |
You get what you pay for
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Cherryville, NC
Posts: 4,798
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Yes, you measure with the arch of the spring. You are after all measuring the length of the spring. There is 4" difference as you know. It's all at the rear. On a 52" spring, the locator pin is in the center, exactly 26". On the 56" spring, the pin is 26" from the front, so this leaves 30" at the rear from the pin to spring eye. So, it's just as easy to measure from the pin to the rear spring eye.
It's no big deal to change to a longer spring. You will have to cut the rivets head off with either a side grinder or BFH and cold chisel. But with tennis elbow, a side grinder would be easier for you. What ever you do, make sure you order the right length springs. it's biotch to send them things back. Been there, done that.
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Mike 1985 Chevy C-10 |
12-22-2003, 07:07 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX
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old Rusty C10:
Thanks for the reply. If I have to remove rivets, I'll definitely try grinding them off. I tried that when I replaced the upper left ball joint a couple of years ago. The tennis elbow was really bad at the time, and I thought that was the smart route to go. Even with the heads ground off it took an hour beat the rivets through the control arm and ball joint. Luckily my neighbor, who used to own a frontend shop, came over to see what the noise was. He did the last 30 minutes of hammering after he started to take it personally. He started off saying "These are real easy..." NOTHING is ever easy on my damned truck! Swervin: That is the kind of specific info I needed. Even if I can't measure it right I can tell if the axle is centered on the spring. That makes it idiot proof, which is well suited to me. I emailed performance suspension and asked if I measure eye to eye in a straight line or along the curve of the spring. Their reply? "Measure it from eye to eye." Oh, did the guy who was looking for you on CT this morning ever find you Swervin? Thanks again, guys. Slonaker Last edited by Slonaker; 12-22-2003 at 07:11 PM. |
12-22-2003, 07:17 PM | #7 |
You get what you pay for
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Cherryville, NC
Posts: 4,798
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Slonaker,
take my word for it, it's too easy. No matter what anyone says, measure along the arch of the spring. But knowing the pin is off center on the 56" spings does pretty sure make it idiot proof. I went through a mess with LMC about this very thing. I ordered some new springs a long time ago. Went by their catalog as to which ones I needed. Well, as you might guess, they were 52" spings. I needed 56". Sending them back was an experience I would just as soon forget. To make a long story short, I had them packed together and they became seperated because the loading monkeys was throwing the things around I guess. UPS lost one of them and sent the other one back to me. Thank goodness I had enough sense to insure them for the full value. To anyone shipping anything with UPS, make sure to insure it. They only cover up to $100 bucks without insurance. |
12-22-2003, 07:19 PM | #8 |
You get what you pay for
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Cherryville, NC
Posts: 4,798
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I've not heard from anyone from CT. Did he have my email address?
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12-23-2003, 02:29 AM | #9 |
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,415
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No, he was asking for your email address. He went to www.73-87.com, but the contact page has been pulled. I explained that you were no longer running the site. Then someone referred him to the contact page at 73-87chevytruck.com, and I had to explain that it was Chris's site.
Someone refereed him here, but the directions were so vague he would probably never find it. He probably gave up. http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/sho...5&o=31&fpart=1 Slonaker |
12-23-2003, 06:30 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,415
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Well, I just ordered drop spindles, drop springs for the rear, and shock extenders.
No matter how I measured the rear springs, they turned out to be 52" long. That surprised me. With the HD spring option, I really expected them to be 56" springs, but they weren't. I am off from work Monday-Wednesday of next week, and was planning to rebuild the front end and replace the spindles and springs before I go out of town on Thursday. I'm afraid I won't get the parts before Thursday, though. We'll see. Thanks for everyone's help. Slonaker |
12-23-2003, 08:30 PM | #11 |
You get what you pay for
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Cherryville, NC
Posts: 4,798
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Sounds like a plan to me. It's a lot of work but not really as hard as most think. It's all a matter of having the right tools and place to do it.
No, I wouldn't look for the parts too soon. With the Christmas shipping and such, everything is getting delayed. Good luck with it all. Mike |
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