Radiator #4

[Mike_The_Grad]

1972 c10 came original with 4 row radiator. Been able to keep it that way. But every single radiator I've put in has developed a leak. Original is long gone. The next was one from a friend that leaks, then bought a champion cooling 4 row all aluminum radiator. That one leaked in the first week. Sent it back. Got another one. That one lasted about a month, ran it anyways. I also switched to the dex cool at that time. After an accident, switched back to the donor radiator (copper/brass) still running dexcool. Finally saved up enough to buy a new copper/brass radiator. Ordered one through local rad shop. Northern brand copper brass 4 row radiator for my application. Was excited to finally not have a leaking radiator in my truck.

Well, that last about a month. I was still running dexcool in it. But the leak started around the transmission cooler port. I'm not using the internal transmission cooler. I have external setup. Radiator has 1 year warranty. Took it back to shop, they elected to fix it in house. So I left it with them. They had it for a day. Got it back, installed it, and drove it. A couple weeks go by. It leaks again. This time on passenger side header plate where tubes meet tank. So I took it back out, dropped it off and they had it for about 2 days while I did a cam swap. They called and said they didnt have enough time to fix it. Cant remember why, but told them I needed it back so I could use my truck.(only form of transportation at the time.) So I got the leaking radiator back. Installed it and ran it. Leaking real bad. Shooting coolant on alternator bad. So I got some jb weld waterweld and slapped a bunch on there. Called shop told them they said bring it back. Took it to them while they contacted company and told them the problem. Shop used some stuff called liquid glass to fix the leaks. They had to keep it for 2 days. The manufacturer was gonna a send new replacement but they were back ordered 2 weeks. So I installed the fixed radiator and drove it for the next couple of weeks. New radiator arrived. But damaged, thanks FEDEX. So had to wait another 10 days for new radiator. Shop pressure checked it and said it was good. Since then I've completely flushed my system, pulled block drain plugs, installed peacocks in block, installed valve on radiator drain. Switched to the green traditional coolant, put new 160° thermostat, new radiator cap, new water pump, new coolant over flow tank.

My question is, what else can I do to ensure I dont have any leaks at least that can be my fault. Meaning hold downs too tight or what not. I dunno, I'm just stressed out about the whole thing. I've gotten pretty good at getting the radiator in and out though. Lol. I'm running dual electric fans, I have new heater core and hoses. I have spring in lower rad hose. I have no obstructions in the system anywhere. I've done a full system flush, back flush, reverse flush, side flush, u name it I done it.

The shop thought I had leaking head gasket. So they did a running test on my system with a special chemical that uses engine vacuum to pull gases from cooling system through the tube. If the chemical changes from blue to yellow, then that means blow head gasket. After 2 minutes of running, no change in color. So no leaking head gasket. But they said system was building pressure some how. But with everything brand new. What on earth can be the reason now???

[54blackhornet]

Mike I can’t offer any suggestions but I must congratulate you on your persistence ! Keep at it and you will be rewarded..Jack

[gmc684x4]

Have you ran a pressure test on your cooling system ?
What is your rad pressure cap rated for ?

Sbc vortec and ls motors need a coolant bypass for better coolant flow through the heads

[Lee H]

What brand of radiators are you using.

[Mike_The_Grad]

I'm running a #16 stant lever radiator cap. Have been for years. I have gone through about 4 or 5 of them. Not because of failures but just to make sure the cap isnt to blame.

Sorry for not giving more info on engine. I have the original 4 bolt main 350 in it. Bored 0.040 over, gm iron heads from 69 camaro SS. Elgin #1785 cam, PRW roller tip rockers, hedman headers, edelbrock EPS intake with 1406 performer carb, Davis Unified ignition, I have ground straps from battery to cylinder head, cylinder head to frame, core support to frame, cab to block, cab to frame, bed to frame, battery to core support.


I've tried champion cooling aluminum radiator(2 of them leaked.) Currently running a Northern radiator brand copper brass 4 row radiator. I dont know the brand name of the one I got from my friend. But it was a copper brass 4 row also.
I dont skimp when possible on anything I put in my truck. I'm not rich by any means and sometimes no name brands or used parts are my only choice based on circumstances. I would love to put a be cool or dewitts or any of the top name brand radiators in my truck. But $600 on the low end is outside my budget. This northern radiator cost me $400. With one year warranty. The reason I went with them was because the rad shop here in town told me they have had zero problems with the ones they install in the big trucks. Like 18 wheelers and what not. But hey, maybe there light duty non commercial branch of radiators are lacking. Soon to find out because I'm in he middle of installing the replacement one the factory just sent me. The rad shop pressure tested it first and gave me the greenlight. Time will tell....

[Mike_The_Grad]

I did a pressure test at the rad shop with the leaking radiator in the truck and obviously because it was leaking it only took about 8 or 9 psi. For steam and coolant to start coming out of the radiator in various places.

[lil hoodlum]

Sorry I'm not much help, but I can't help but wonder about the Dexcool. I use the plain green coolant with no issues. Glad to hear you made the switch.

I've used the Champion radiators. Good radiators but mine developed a pin hole leak after using a block cleaner solution. I dabbed a little JB weld on the pin hole but have been using the O'reillies Spectra brand radiator with no issues what so ever. I have allways used the green coolant.

[Accelo]

Might try the DeWitts radiator. Made in the USA. Never had an issue with it. I have two of them. They are not the least expensive. Just really nice equipment. Mine came with a CNC machined cap. Just the cap says quality all over. https://www.dewitts.com/
Rick

[jimijam00]

I've got a Northern triple pass cooling my Chevelle w/o problem. No matter what you buy next, test it immediately and send it back if it leaks.

Here's an option: https://speedcooling.com/1967_1972_C...yABEgIe6fD_BwE

Originally Posted by Accelo

They are not the least expensive. Just really nice equipment.

Nope. They are the most expensive. BTW, they aren't the only one's with nice caps. The guys above make billet caps too.

[kwmech]

Fix the radiator and put a ground wire on it. Sounds like you have electrolysis going on. Surprised the radiator shop did not clue you in on this. The factory steel trans cooler lines were the original ground. Been a few threads on this issue

[slikside]

Originally Posted by kwmech

Fix the radiator and put a ground wire on it. Sounds like you have electrolysis going on. Surprised the radiator shop did not clue you in on this. The factory steel trans cooler lines were the original ground. Been a few threads on this issue

Interesting! Never would have guessed it could even possibly be and electrical ground issue. Sure hope it proves to be cure for him...

[Accelo]

Originally Posted by kwmech

The factory steel trans cooler lines were the original ground. Been a few threads on this issue

How did they ground the manual transmission radiators?
I just purchased a DeWitt radiator and it has a ground wire on it.

Rick