47-55.1 Fuse box placement 50 gmc

[suburban99]

Just wondering what location works for installing a new fuse/relay box? My 50 has no wiring and is getting an S-10 frame. I did not get any wiring to salvage from the S-10. I will probably use a 20 circuit as truck will be LS 4L60E powered. Was thinking under stock seat?

[Tempest67]

I welded a piece of sheet metal between the 2 'braces' on the firewall, and mounted the fuse box onto it.

1. I did not want it on the divers side (of firewall), as the pedals, steering column, and parking brake is there.

2. didn't want it on the Passenger side (of firewall) as I have a Vintage Air Heater on that side, (Heater only)

so,

I welded a piece of sheet metal between the 2 braces (firewall), and attached the fuse box to it.

This allows for easy access, without having to lengthen your wires, and the sheet metal acts as a good ground for anything that needs it.

However, I also made a sheet metal top for the fuse box that just clears the cowl vent, so if there is a leak, the water will not drip on the wires. (just a heads up)

[suburban99]

Tempest67 I am ot quite sure of the location. Do you have another pic from farther back? What fuse/relay box did you use?

[duramax55]

Originally Posted by Tempest67

I welded a piece of sheet metal between the 2 'braces' on the firewall, and mounted the fuse box onto it.

1. I did not want it on the divers side (of firewall), as the pedals, steering column, and parking brake is there.

2. didn't want it on the Passenger side (of firewall) as I have a Vintage Air Heater on that side, (Heater only)

so,

I welded a piece of sheet metal between the 2 braces (firewall), and attached the fuse box to it.

This allows for easy access, without having to lengthen your wires, and the sheet metal acts as a good ground for anything that needs it.

However, I also made a sheet metal top for the fuse box that just clears the cowl vent, so if there is a leak, the water will not drip on the wires. (just a heads up)

just a thought but i put my fuse block on a magnet. I welded a piece of tin under the dash where i can stick the fuse box with enough wire to pull right out and have easy access to the fuse box. Works great

[mongocanfly]

For the engine/trans,If you go with a BP harness, you'll have enough tail to mount it under the seat..PSI will not reach under seat
For the fuse panel/block, I used American autowire hwy17, theres plenty of wire to mount it all under seat as well
In tempests pic ,the lever is what opens the cowl vent, to give you an idea of his location

[Tempest67]

Yes, Mongocanfly is correct.

That 'lever/handle' , controls the cowl vent.

Look above the fuse box and you can see the vent itself.

this pic was taken from inside the middle of the cab looking up to the cowl vent.

the sheet metal is attached (welded) to the 2 support braces on the firewall

sorry, can't find another pic.

hope this helps


also, I used a harness from Kwikwire (14 circuit)

[suburban99]

Ah yes, I see...
Thanks for the info, just below the cowl vent. I haven't even looked under the dash in the'50 yet, been concentrating on getting the frame done while the shop is empty-ish..

[_Ogre]

58truk has the fuse panel on the firewall like most 60s trucks, mostly covered by dash fascia. the best one i've seen looked lower than mine when down, but hinged up and latched on the front of the dash

[dsraven]

some that I have seen or worked on use the hinge method so they are out of sight unless you unsnap the lock mechanism and hinge the panel down. some of these are from a stock vehicles. placement under the seat is also a great idea, I suggest to put it on a drawer slide so you can slide it out when needed or make it sit on a plate that is captured at the rear by a bracket on the floor and then the front part is "kept" by a latch or stud and wing nut style retainer. some install them behind the seat but that takes more wire and the seat needs to move enough for access. just some thoughts. you need one but rarely have to check or workon one if the build is done well.

[dsraven]

whatever you decide, try to think about when you need to access it. nothing worse than having to remove a bunch of stuff or lay upside down and only look out of one eyeball to see what you're doing. usually not in a great mood when a fuse blows.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by dsraven

whatever you decide, try to think about when you need to access it. nothing worse than having to remove a bunch of stuff or lay upside down and only look out of one eyeball to see what you're doing. usually not in a great mood when a fuse blows.

This should have a high degree of importance. You don't want the panel in an inaccessible spot where you can't reach it easily or have to remove too many panels to get to it.

One never seems to have an issue that calls for looking at your fuse panel when you have your grubbies on. It is always on the way to work, on the way to and event or out on a cruise with your "good" truck shirt and your good casual pants.

I'm thinking seriously about putting the fuse panel behind the driver's seat in what amounts to a box that has an easily removable cover on it. That will take a longer wiring harness but will be easier to deal with. The other option might be on a slide out tray either under the dash or under the driver's seat.

A friend had a fuse and relay panel in his car about 25 years ago that was on a hinged tray that dropped down from the dash and then slid out to where it was easy to reach. He had the harness rigged in a way that it was pulled up out of the way when the panel was back up in place but easily stretched out when he pulled the tray out. You could sit in the driver's seat and check fuses and relays. I only saw it once at a show when he was showing it to me and don't think I got any photos but they would be on film and printed if I have any.

[dsraven]

ogre's is nicely tucked away but easily accessed without crawling in on the floor.