Anyone Using Cabover/ Slide in Camper with there trucks?

[conoco]

I am looking to purchase a Slide in or cab over camper pretty soon. Was looking for insight on if there are guys/girls on here that use one of these with there trucks. Everything I have researched on the internet seems to say its 50/50. I have seen pictures on google of our year trucks with cabovers and some of the older ones look huge and i'm sure are much heavier than todays campers. or at least a little. Some have no problem and others say its white knuckle. I wouldn't be driving with this thing on anywhere but highway and camp spots at the local fishing grounds. I am looking to buy one like the ones in these pictures. From what I can tell on the attached chart my truck should be good up to 10,000lbs.

My truck is rated at 7500 GVWR k2500 72 Sierra Grande. I do have airbags in the rear rated for 5000lbs, Disc brakes front and rear / Eaton ho52 with 4.11's / th350 with gear vendors unit / 4" lift and 35 tires F rated 12 ply.

Just don't want to buy something I cant use or have to use on my modern truck. The slide in is also about 400 miles away but its all highway. That would be a horrible time to learn I made a bad choice lol I plan on paint matching the camper and my truck this winter. I would appreciate thoughts from your experiences!!

[jocko]

The GCWR chart applies to trailer towing - not applicable to a slide-in. On-truck camper limits are defined by GVWR, the 7500 lbs. I have the same truck as you, 72 K20, and have run thru this same question in my camper search time and again - it usually comes down to a balance of rear overhang vs white-knuckle tolerance. You're spot on in your assessment that everyone on the internet has an opinion - you will get the same on here as well (and probably will shortly), including my post, which is just one more opinion.

If you really want to know your limits - you need to know the actual weight of your truck and the weight of the trailer, your weight, and your cargo weight And your dog's weight.. . From there, it's math and the equation starts with 7500 (-) you (-) cargo = max camper weight. Yes, some folks will tell you they haul a camper that weighs much more than that limit. And I'd personally have no problem setting up my rig to operate right at the GVWR limit, but when you do the math, it starts to get pretty tight once you start looking at rear overhang campers.

I've come to the general conclusion that for a 3/4 ton truck, the best compromise for an older cabover with no white knuckling is a bed-length camper. They leave you plenty of wiggle room for cargo, dog, beverages, fishin pole and a can of worms. One option if you really want to go larger is the fiberglass molded top campers of the day, like a Chinook, they are a little lighter compared to non-fiberglass top campers. Yes, you can go longer - but as you get out into the 11.5' range, probably more suited to a 1-ton truck. Some of the 9-9.5's are doable, but you need to do the math with the actual numbers - and it also comes down to comfort level.

Anyway, the main point here is that your charts do not apply to the question you're asking - GVWR applies to an on-truck camper, GCWR applies to trailer hauling. Sorry, am sure not what you were hoping to hear.

[conoco]

Originally Posted by jocko

The GCWR chart applies to trailer towing - not applicable to a slide-in. On-truck camper limits are defined by GVWR, the 7500 lbs. I have the same truck as you, 72 K20, and have scratched my head on what will be white knuckle and what will not. You'd spot on in your assessment that everyone on the internet has an opinion - you will get the same on here as well, including my post, which is just one more opinion.

If you really want to know your limits - you need to know the weight of your truck and the weight of the trailer, your weight, and your cargo weight. From there, it's math and the equation starts with 7500-you-cargo=max camper weight. Yes, some folks will tell you they haul a camper that weighs much more than that limit.

I've come to the general conclusion that for a 3/4 ton truck, the best compromise for an older cabover with no white knuckling is a bed-length camper. They leave you plenty of wiggle room for cargo, dog, beverages, fishin pole and a can of worms. One option if you really want to go larger is the fiberglass molded top campers of the day, like a Chinook, they are a little lighter compared to non-fiberglass top campers. Yes, you can go longer - but as you get out into the 11.5' range, probably more suited to a 1-ton truck. Some of the 9-9.5's are doable, but you need to do the math with the actual numbers - and it also comes down to comfort level.

Anyway, the main point here is that your charts do not apply to the question you're asking - GVWR applies to an on-truck camper, GCWR applies to trailer hauling. Sorry, am sure not what you were hoping to hear.

No brother this is exactly what I wanted to hear, I have absolutely no experience with slide in campers, my truck pulls my 24ft trailer fine but that also is not sitting completely in my bed. I guess I'm just looking for any input from what ever source I can get to make the best decision. I am up on the oil fields currently but when I get home next week I will go to the weigh station with both tanks full and my normal load to get the weight. But even if I am under the weight limits its still doesn't account for the type of weight that the slide in will have. I just look and see classic set ups with our trucks and some of those set ups the campers are pretty large. So just looking to see if people are having problems and if so what they are. I very much appreciate your comment, good or bad. I would like to take cautious advice that saves me from a roll over, rather than riding the lighting and hoping for the best. Could I get away with the weight ( Probably) am I willing to do that with my two boys in the truck on the way to the fishing hole? Not unless I'm sure its safe. Thanks for your thoughts much appreciated.

[jocko]

if it helps - I think good candidates for your truck (with no white knuckling) would be something like an 8' Mitchell cabover (something like a Little Sioux) or even a non-cabover Alaskan 8'. But I do understand the desire to have the cabover sleeping space. The nice thing about an 8' Alaskan is the low CG when on the move, just lower them and you're set. Sounds like you won't be off-roading much, so high CG probably not too big of a concern. The downside with the 8' stuff is it usually means no toilet in the camper. But, there are some out there with them, and some folks modify Alaskans and other 8 footers to have one. All depends on where you think you'll be going and what features you'll want to have. Everyone is different, has different needs, desires, etc with their campers. Once you weigh your rig, just subtract that number from 7500 and that will give you a rough idea what weight camper you can comfortably buy with no worries (and don't forget to account for gear you'll stick in the camper as well). Good luck!

EDIT: here are some pics. 1st is a Little Sioux, next an 8' Alaskan (member Chevyland's old rig I believe!), next, I forgot to mention that there are also 8' Alaskan cabovers(!), and lastly the Chinook. Having said all that, don't let me discourage you from still considering 9.5', even longer, slide-ins. Yes, people have hauled them and they have been made since the 60's for all the trucks of the day. Just mention all the above so you can do your homework and make an informed decision.

[conoco]

Originally Posted by jocko

if it helps - I think good candidates for your truck (with no white knuckling) would be something like an 8' Mitchell cabover (something like a Little Sioux) or even a non-cabover Alaskan 8'. But I do understand the desire to have the cabover sleeping space. The nice thing about an 8' Alaskan is the low CG when on the move, just lower them and you're set. Sounds like you won't be off-roading much, so high CG probably not too big of a concern. The downside with the 8' stuff is it usually means no toilet in the camper. But, there are some out there with them, and some folks modify Alaskans and other 8 footers to have one. All depends on where you think you'll be going and what features you'll want to have. Everyone is different, has different needs, desires, etc with their campers. Once you weigh your rig, just subtract that number from 7500 and that will give you a rough idea what weight camper you can comfortably buy with no worries (and don't forget to account for gear you'll stick in the camper as well). Good luck!


EDIT: here are some pics. 1st is a Little Sioux, next an 8' Alaskan (member Chevyland's old rig I believe!), next, I forgot to mention that there are also 8' Alaskan cabovers(!), and lastly the Chinook. Having said all that, don't let me discourage you from still considering 9.5', even longer, slide-ins. Yes, people have hauled them and they have been made since the 60's for all the trucks of the day. Just mention all the above so you can do your homework and make an informed decision.

You right man thanks. I was looking at the Alaskan last night and they are around 30 grand new, granted they are custom build but ironically I cant find any used Alaskans and I am here in ALASKA lmao!! I would like a bathroom and that where the hold up is. I have my 24ft trailer that I use with my wife and kids, this truck pulls it just fine. I just wanted something for my and my boy when it's just us so it frees me up to go to some parts of the camp grounds I wouldn't be able to go with the camper. I'll weight my truck and go from there. I probably should have done that before I made this post !! I'm up here on the oilfields right now and I didn't have the patience. Thanks for your guidance, much appreciated!

[tutone]

I think Jocko hit the nail right on the head. I am constantly looking at vintage campers, although I will not keep a truck LWB long enough to buy one. A few pages ago on "Post your Craigslist Finds" , I posted a 1970 Avion Columbia that some dealer in Nashville offered up. It was a long camper with many nice features. It was 2700 lbs , and aluminum construction. I keep thinking about the CL ad in Bend Oregon that had a GMC with a like new "Beaver" camper on it. Of course, they are sold by now, but I will keep posting the gems as they pop up. Another idea that I might suggest, Find someone you can load theirs up in your truck and see how it behaves on the road. I know that might be a stretch, but I don't think it is out of the question. I will add a pic of the Beaver/GMC rig.

[conoco]

Originally Posted by tutone

I think Jocko hit the nail right on the head. I am constantly looking at vintage campers, although I will not keep a truck LWB long enough to buy one. A few pages ago on "Post your Craigslist Finds" , I posted a 1970 Avion Columbia that some dealer in Nashville offered up. It was a long camper with many nice features. It was 2700 lbs , and aluminum construction. I keep thinking about the CL ad in Bend Oregon that had a GMC with a like new "Beaver" camper on it. Of course, they are sold by now, but I will keep posting the gems as they pop up. Another idea that I might suggest, Find someone you can load theirs up in your truck and see how it behaves on the road. I know that might be a stretch, but I don't think it is out of the question. I will add a pic of the Beaver/GMC rig.

I really wish I could find a vintage one, there is nothing like that here in Alaska and if there is they are beat to @#&^. I wish I had more of a selection like the lower 48 sometimes. I have a couple buddies that I might be able to use to test it out. We are in full winter right now so I might have to wait. The more than likely have there winterized and tarped up. Thanks again for your thoughts.

[factorystock]

Originally Posted by tutone

It was a long camper with many nice features. It was 2700 lbs.

This is problem, many campers were often to heavy, even for a 3/4 tons. Weight and weight distribution is very important. Now if you have a high profile vehicle, such as a 4x4, you have the center of gravity issue. These factors were not taken seriously back in the day, resulting in poor performance and safety. My advise, go short and go light, 8', 1600 lb. If it was a 2wd, I would bump up a little 9'-1800 lb.

[Fbks_Cruiser]

Last time I was at my neighbors I noticed an older style cab over camper and thought “that would be cool for my truck”. It didn’t look like it had been used in a while. I don’t recall if it is an 8 foot or longer. Next time I see them I’ll ask about it for you.

[special-K]

I ran a '71 C/20 (leaf rear) with a slide-in for quite a few years, many trips. No bathroom but did have a 10' floor. It rode like a Cadillac, rode and handled like the camper wasn't there. I had 8.25" wheels with 9.50 tires on front and 9.75" wheels on back with 12.50" tires that helped out some. It was light for its size, I think. It had a hand pump sink, ice box, no heat or a/c. Really not much to a camper like that. A light load for a 3/4t.

I decided I wanted a 4wd camper, which never happened. That's why I got out of the C/20. For the 4wd I was going to get a lo-profile crank-up camper with 8' floor. I wanted to lower center of gravity, clearance for limbs, ease of loading canoes/kayaks up top, and be able to tow. I doubt the crank-up campers are any lighter. I'd bet they're heavier

[Rich72C10]

Originally Posted by special-K

I ran a '71 C/20 (leaf rear) with a slide-in for quite a few years, many trips. No bathroom but did have a 10' floor. It rode like a Cadillac, rode and handled like the camper wasn't there. I had 8.25" wheels with 9.50 tires on front and 9.75" wheels on back with 12.50" tires that helped out some. It was light for its size, I think. It had a hand pump sink, ice box, no heat or a/c. Really not much to a camper like that. A light load for a 3/4t.

I decided I wanted a 4wd camper, which never happened. That's why I got out of the C/20. For the 4wd I was going to get a lo-profile crank-up camper with 8' floor. I wanted to lower center of gravity, clearance for limbs, ease of loading canoes/kayaks up top, and be able to tow. I doubt the crank-up campers are any lighter. I'd bet they're heavier

That is one cool setup special-K, if I could get a Truck/Camper combo that is what I would like to have. Though it seems I read that a Longhorn is better for campers? I think a '72 C20 Cheyenne Super / Camper Special dark green (Longhorn?) would be dope! As soon as I win the lotto, I'll look for one LOL

[Jeff1971]

I’ve got a 1979 7 foot cab over Alaskan. It weighs 1440 lbs dry. My Arctic Fox 860 was pushing 3600. It felt like there was an elephant in my bed all the time. The Alaskan is great. Hard to find a good used one for sure.

Jeff

[BigBird05]

I had a camper that extended past the bumper and it made my truck back heavy. I had to install extra springs to level it back out.

[tutone]

There is a nice Alaskan 10 footer in Oshgosh Wisc. I have no idea what it weighs out at, but Jocko mentioned that manufacturer in an earlier post. These are few and far between
https://appleton.craigslist.org/rvs/...412168044.html

[special-K]

Alaskans are definitely heavy. Those require a 1t truck for sure

[Caddylackn]

I have been researching this for awhile and this is what I found.

It seems that the vintage campers (60s to mid 70s) are lighter than newer campers. The newer campers can be really heavy unless you get the light weight models. The 80's and 90's campers were heavy and top heavy with oak framed cabinetry throughout located next to the ceiling. They also had bigger bathrooms that took up a lot of floor space and added a lot of weight. It all depends on how you want to camp. For wilderness camping, I don't need an inside bathroom, just a portable toilet to be placed outside or inside in a pinch. An outside shower bib is nice. I would find the narrowest camper I could find if I was going to be on forest roads, so I could pass another vehicle on a dirt road without having to find a pullout or back up to one to be able to get by.

The modern campers with slideouts are extremely heavy (4,000 lbs) and require a one ton dually for stability while driving due to being top heavy.

There are winter campers and these can be really heavy, but recommended if you are in that cold climate. The plumbing and the walls are insulated and they usually have double propane tanks. Taking a non insulated camper into a sub 20 degree camping is not recommended

With a 7,500 GVW, you should be looking at loaded camper ratings of 2,500 lbs or less so you are under the 7,500 GVW with fuel, people, and water. This limits you to around an 8' cabover for most in the 70s-2000s campers, or a 10' vintage cabover.

The older campers with the one piece fiberglass tops are usually leakproof and escape the water damage and dry rot that the other traditional campers have. These models are rarer, more expensive, heavier but worth it in my opinion. It is very hard to find a camper that is not water damaged and full of mold smells around the PNW.

I have about three options of old campers for sale around here:
1. Has "minor" leaks and water damage; ave. price $1,000 - $2,000; these vary from full dry rot to limited dry rot and inside water staining and delaminating; all smell like pungent mold inside.
2. Has repaired roof leak but has evidence of water damage inside, ave. price $2,000 - $4,000. Usually some dry rot under repair, still some mold smell.
3. Stored inside all its life with no water damage. ave. price $5,000 - $10,000.