Sound deadener between door and door panel 67-71

[Accelo]

I almost forgot about the Sound deadener between door and door panel.
I didn't plan for it and wanted to get my panels installed.
I had a left over roll of the foam insulation for ducting purchased from Home Depot.
I decided to give it a try as backing. Cut it to fit between the foam tap and the top of the door. Just cut it with scissors. Panel went on nicely without issues. I think I have a winner?
Cheers.

[Richard]

Should work well. I would recommend sealing up that hole at the back of the door on the top, at least with tape. Have found most of the noise comes from the air leaks.

[Accelo]

Duct tape to the rescue! LOL.

I have a set of the air dams that go in the hinge area. Are they worth installing?
thanks

[Richard]

Originally Posted by Accelo

Duct tape to the rescue! LOL.

I have a set of the air dams that go in the hinge area. Are they worth installing?
thanks

IDK? Have them myself but am missing the brackets to install as my truck is not a Cheyenne. Require staples and extra holes. Even if I can source the brackets it is not a priority for me.

[Rich72C10]

Originally Posted by Richard

IDK? Have them myself but am missing the brackets to install as my truck is not a Cheyenne. Require staples and extra holes. Even if I can source the brackets it is not a priority for me.

You can post a WTB in the parts forum, I got mine here on the forums - I bet someone will offer some up. Needed to get the felt to replace what was on them but at least they are there to see how they are on the bracket. As you say they are stapled onto the brackets.

But like I said in my post before, they totally went to the bottom of my list - they are likely stuck there as I put my box of parts into my attic!

[HO455]

Looks good, just be aware of the drain holes so water doesn't get trapped.
Here is a link to what I found with mine.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=798102

[Richard]

Originally Posted by HO455

Looks good, just be aware of the drain holes so water doesn't get trapped.
Here is a link to what I found with mine.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=798102

Thanks for this info. Always planning to replace the degraded foam weather strip and add a vapor barrier. None the less will look at my 72 doors tomorrow.

[Canadian694x4]

Every little bit helps!

[Rich72C10]

I have those air dams to fix up and to install. It appears mine are missing, my guess ~12 years ago the person/persons working on the truck decided not to reinstall them.

Though after getting the air dams and the parts to refurb them, which that in itself seems like a pain, I decided to push doing anything with them to the very bottom of my list. Best that I can tell you got to remove your fenders to get them on (and whatever else needs to come off to get fenders off).

I guess you haven't put you fender back on yet Accelo? When you go about installing them, I'd love to see real good / multiple angled photos. Heck I'd love to see a dedicated thread on the install of them.

[Accelo]

Looks good, just be aware of the drain holes so water doesn't get trapped.

You mean the ones at the bottom of the door? Or am I missing something?

I also taped up the gap I left on the drivers side. I hadn't cut the passenger side, before I posted, so I left an ea,r on it, to cover the gap. I also had to removed 1/2" of material from the very top so the panel would clip in. That was completed after the picture was taken.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by Accelo

Looks good, just be aware of the drain holes so water doesn't get trapped.

You mean the ones at the bottom of the door? Or am I missing something?

I also taped up the gap I left on the drivers side. I hadn't cut the passenger side, before I posted, so I left an ea,r on it, to cover the gap. I also had to removed 1/2" of material from the very top so the panel would clip in. That was completed after the picture was taken.

The drain holes just above the rubber seal under the door panel. Water gets between the door skin and the door panel through the holes in the door skin and drains back inside the door through the oval holes. Then that water drains out of the bottom of the door on to the sill if those holes aren't plugged with dirt, leaves, pine needles or pieces of the factory sound deadening tar.
Those rubber beads just below the oval holes need to be watertight to the door and the door panel to keep water from running out from under the door panel.

[jumpsoffrock]

^^Wow, not that I'm the expert but I never knew about those holes, thank you!

[MikeB]

That's not sound deadener, it's just insulation. It will not dampen panel vibrations.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by MikeB

That's not sound deadener, it's just insulation. It will not dampen panel vibrations.

Why I recommended sealing up the leak. Typically, I applied sound deadender in strips on outer door skin. Companys like Dynamat and Accumat love that people cover entire panels and openings with their product. It is not necessary, but people still do it.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Richard

Companys like Dynamat and Accumat love that people cover entire panels and openings with their product. It is not necessary, but people still do it.

Yes, that's true. It doesn't take a lot of DynaMat-type product to dampen panel vibrations. However, it won't serve as standalone insulation from hot headers, exhaust pipes, and transmission, no matter what the vendors say!

Just FYI, here are my favorites for sound deadening and insulation:

For sound deadening, this stuff has slightly thinner butyl rubber, but works well and is SIGNIFICANTLY less expensive than the name brands:

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B01BKK...ch_asin_image?

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For insulation, the product below made by Bonded Logic is available with foil on one side or both sides, with cotton from recycled blue jeans in the middle.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Alumi...ded,32193.html

[Accelo]

I learned a lot on this thread. Completely missed the drain holes in the door. Wondering how this changed in 1972? Any pictures of the 72 door we can add? I was interested in replacing vapor barrier with something on hand. With some luck my truck will never see any rain again! Vibration is another/separate issue. I do appreciated the links. My thought is most of the products are overpriced to pay for their marketing.

Anyone else notice the difference in the shape of the hole in the door? The one Richard pointed out was uncovered. One is round and the other (1970 door hole) pear shaped.

If your serious about quieting down your truck add a overdrive transmission. Eliminating the source is a better policy than attempting to block the noise.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Accelo

If your serious about quieting down your truck add a overdrive transmission. Eliminating the source is a better policy than attempting to block the noise.

An O/D trans would certainly help at highway speeds. However, sound deadening helps at all speeds.

When I added sound deadening material to an 1982 C10, it made a tremendous difference -- from the sound of closing doors to road noise. I mean the improvement was noticeable as soon as I backed out of the driveway and drove down the street.

Same was true of a 55 Chevy car, which the first time I used sound deadener.

[Accelo]

Guess my headers would also need to go! LOL.
And my Black Widow "ANGRY HOUSEWIFE'S mufflers.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Accelo

Guess my headers would also need to go! LOL.

Long tube headers can be big-time source of heat to the floors. Same is true of 2.5" pipes tucked up high. Ask me how I know!

I guess there are some downsides to using this, but wrapping pipes helps a lot.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010123

[burb71]

I think your sound barrier is a great idea, its also a dampness barrier that will keep door panel from getting rusty, as well as help with radiant heat entering the cab from the door skin.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by Accelo

Anyone else notice the difference in the shape of the hole in the door? The one Richard pointed out was uncovered. One is round and the other (1970 door hole) pear shaped.

Having just removed the exterior door handle on my Burban I believe I know why those holes changed from round to pear shaped. As I was unbolting the handle I noticed the round holes don't line up with the handle bolts very well. So poorly I found it easier to use a 1/4 drive ratchet to remove the handle from inside the door. Not exactly conducive to speedy assembly line production. When I saw the picture with the pear shaped holes the light came on in my head.
I would bet the round holes were a mistake during the design of the new 67 model and at some point GM modified the inner door skin holes to speed up the assembly process.
Possibly the round holes were a carry over from the 66 model year.

[chewychevy67]

Originally Posted by HO455

Having just removed the exterior door handle on my Burban I believe I know why those holes changed from round to pear shaped. As I was unbolting the handle I noticed the round holes don't line up with the handle bolts very well. So poorly I found it easier to use a 1/4 drive ratchet to remove the handle from inside the door. Not exactly conducive to speedy assembly line production. When I saw the picture with the pear shaped holes the light came on in my head.
I would bet the round holes were a mistake during the design of the new 67 model and at some point GM modified the inner door skin holes to speed up the assembly process.
Possibly the round holes were a carry over from the 66 model year.

The 67 outer handles had screws that mounted straight in and had a backing plate on the insde of the skin. In 68 and up it went in at an angle so the hole had to be elongated and the backing plate was discontinued

[Accelo]

I thought this was an interesting water/rust pattern on the back side of my used door panel. My guess is it is indicative of the water path inside the door.

I should have used different nomenclature in the title. Possible vapor barrier would have avoided some confusion. Never the less, this was an interesting thread.
I learned a lot from it.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by chewychevy67

The 67 outer handles had screws that mounted straight in and had a backing plate on the insde of the skin. In 68 and up it went in at an angle so the hole had to be elongated and the backing plate was discontinued

That's interesting! Now I know I have 67 doors on my 67 Burban. The doors have 68 and up wing windows and door handles. I have wondered if the doors had been swapped.