Looking for motor mount advice

[D-n-Tyke]

Need some advice when it comes to which motor mounts will work best for my swap. Trying to get as many parts ordered up hoping to have most the parts here before I start this whole swap, motor mounts probably being one of the most important ones. Looking at dropping a 5.3/4L60e combo out of a 2003 Yukon XL into my 69 C20 Suburban. Looking around I see mainly 2 different styles, mounting plates with multiple *adjustable* mounting points or the other being sliding plates. Any advantage/disadvantage of one style over the other? My biggest concern I guess is I want to be able to run the stock LS AC compresor and bracket. Which mounts would allow me to run the LS compressor/bracket.

[Richard]

Width of frame for compressor as opposed to front/back orientation is of concern. Height in frame rails would possibly be more important? Have seen some say it fit fine, others had to notch frame for compressor or hoses. Even with my choice of crossmember I just went with an aftermarket high mount compressor and alternator drive system for ease of clearance and because I like the way it looks.

[bigmoe]

I went with the single plate with 4 positions. I just figured the sliders were kind of bulky. I am in the third position forward. Gen IV 5.3 in a 65.

[A1971Blazer]

I made my own adapters from ½" aluminum and used the factory style mounts with Energy Suspension Poly mounts...
The factory Ac compressor bracket on my LS1 (02 TransAm) would not clear the frame and since I'm using Vintage Air, I got the low mount Alan Grove bracket for the Sanden compressor.

The LS1 front accessory drive is very compact and works well with the swap.


One hole in the adapter goes all the way thru the motor mount into the block,
one other is countersunk for flat head screws and the other two are tapped to match the mount.


Right hand is mirror image

[Davidf]

I went with Hooker Blackheart engine stands and F-body urethane motor mounts (also sold by Blackheart). With this setup, there is zero a/c compressor interference. Places the engine back and low and will work with LT1 engines for future compatibility. I also purchased their trans crossmember...a nice piece. With the space block (to lift output shaft), I needed 4 degree shims for the rear axle which put driveline alignment spot on.

The compressor with clear the frame rail, but I elected to do a bit of clearancing as I went strait up/out with the low pressure hose and it needed a bit of space (not much).

Good luck.

Edit: I should have mentioned that I went with a one piece driveshaft on my longbed truck. Driveline angles will vary otherwise and should be checked/adjusted no mater what engine support product you use.

[D-n-Tyke]

Originally Posted by Davidf

I went with Hooker Blackheart engine stands and F-body urethane motor mounts (also sold by Blackheart). With this setup, there is zero a/c compressor interference. Places the engine back and low and will work with LT1 engines for future compatibility. I also purchased their trans crossmember...a nice piece. With the space block (to lift output shaft), I needed 4 degree shims for the rear axle which put driveline alignment spot on.

The compressor with clear the frame rail, but I elected to a bit of clearancing as I went strait up/out with the low pressure hose and it needed a bit of space (not much).

Good luck.

You have a part number or links to engine stands and the motor mounts? I tried to find them on Hooker's (Holley's) website but didn't have any luck.

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by D-n-Tyke

You have a part number or links to engine stands and the motor mounts? I tried to find them on Hooker's (Holley's) website but didn't have any luck.

Here you go:
https://www.holley.com/products/engi...ission_mounts/

If you go this route, absolutely use the Blackheart urethane engine mounts...if you use the rubber F-body mounts, the motor will sag in short order and the truck oil pan will then hit the steering center link/rod. And/or, the rubber mount will tear/fail in short order especially if you have fun with all the new found power.

[D-n-Tyke]

Awesome. Thank you sir

[D-n-Tyke]

Originally Posted by Davidf

Here you go:
https://www.holley.com/products/engi...ission_mounts/

If you go this route, absolutely use the Blackheart urethane engine mounts...if you use the rubber F-body mounts, the motor will sag in short order and the truck oil pan will then hit the steering center link/rod. And/or, the rubber mount will tear/fail in short order especially if you have fun with all the new found power.

David, by using these mounts did it mount the engine back in the stock location or did it move the motor forward?

[D-n-Tyke]

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

I made my own adapters from ½" aluminum and used the factory style mounts with Energy Suspension Poly mounts...
The factory Ac compressor bracket on my LS1 (02 TransAm) would not clear the frame and since I'm using Vintage Air, I got the low mount Alan Grove bracket for the Sanden compressor.

The LS1 front accessory drive is very compact and works well with the swap.
Attachment 2172463

One hole in the adapter goes all the way thru the motor mount into the block,
one other is countersunk for flat head screws and the other two are tapped to match the mount.
Attachment 2172464

Right hand is mirror image
Attachment 2172465

That looks like a very possible solution right there. Only other set back I have is the the PO kept the stock motor mount stands. I was planing on getting a set of POL tubular stands. Would have to figure out what mount to use with a fabricated adapter plate. Really like this solution though. Might just look i to buying stock motor mount brackets.