Need some knowledgeable input

[Chevy nutcase]

Ok before I even found the truck I wanted to buy I knew I wanted to lower it once i had it. Now that i have one I'm wondering which route I should take. My brain works funny so bear with me. My first idea that my have started on this forum was to use lowering blocks in the rear and cut one coil off the front coils but wanting 2" - 2 1/2" drop on the front would consume most of the front suspension travel. My next plan was a drop spindle kit from summit but as I looked into different drop kits most of them warned against not fitting in stock rims meant for drum brakes. I've read so many posts here and elsewhere and I've concluded its impossible to tell. So I shifted gears and thought I'll get new wheels and tires, even though my rims are in great shape and the tires are basically new. At the same time I thought about converting to 5 lug and after a long while I found a local guy selling a 71 c10 chassis for $900. The bonus here is I'll also get a power steering box and I can sell the trailing arms and factory front disk setup. Then I almost puked when I realized I was about to spend over 3k when in truth I could possibly get away with just buying the drop spindle kit and using 1/2 spacers on my front rims to clear the calipers and avoid unnecessary tires and wheels and buying a frame for a 5 lug conversion.

[AcampoDave]

This truck sits on a 2/4 drop which I did with a spring kit that came with new shorter shocks, some relocation brackets for the rear and an adjustable panhard
bar. I was trying to get the best bang for my buck so converting to disc did not interest me. I split the drum system with a dual MC and kept my stock wheels. Yes the suspension travel is shorter but the springs are new and rated for a half ton truck. The ride is good and it will haul a moderate load. I just take it easy over big bumps (I was lucky enough to bag a 3.08 rear end with a six lug pattern) and it will go anywhere I want to take it. The 2/4 kit i used is widely available at a decent price and most of these old rigs need new springs and shocks anyhow.

[Chevy nutcase]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

This truck sits on a 2/4 drop which I did with a spring kit that came with new shorter shocks, some relocation brackets for the rear and an adjustable panhard
bar. I was trying to get the best bang for my buck so converting to disc did not interest me. I split the drum system with a dual MC and kept my stock wheels. Yes the suspension travel is shorter but the springs are new and rated for a half ton truck. The ride is good and it will haul a moderate load. I just take it easy over big bumps (I was lucky enough to bag a 3.08 rear end with a six lug pattern) and it will go anywhere I want to take it. The 2/4 kit i used is widely available at a decent price and most of these old rigs need new springs and shocks anyhow.

That's a beautiful truck and I couldn't ask for a better stance. I already have 2" lowering blocks, adjustable panhard bar and short shocks. I to have already switched to a dual master cylinder. That was the first thing I did. One of the reasons I wasn't upset at the thought if switching my rear out is because its geared low at 3:73 and would definitely prefer 3:08 so I'm not screaming at 3000 rpm at 60 mph. Could I bug you for a pic of the front bump stops? It will help to see where you are at and what I can shoot for. Thx

[AcampoDave]

Thanks for the compliments. Here is a pic. There is one inch of space between the tip of the stop and the metal. But it looks closer than that in the pic. (Gotta love the Black Widow web hanging off the A arm too )

[Chevy nutcase]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

Thanks for the compliments. Here is a pic. There is one inch of space between the tip of the stop and the metal. But it looks closer than that in the pic. (Gotta love the Black Widow web hanging off the A arm too )

That looks like a reasonable amount of space to work with and I'm wondering if shaving the bumpers down 1/2" or more would cause unforeseen trauma from over travel?

[cwcarpenter98]

Drum brake 6 lugs won't fit disc brakes without using a spacer, but the 71-87 K10 6 lug wheels will fit disc brakes. You can switch to discs if you desire without giving up on running 6 lugs and hubcaps.

I don't have drop spindles on my 63, but I am running 6 lug disc brakes and stock hubcaps

[Chevy nutcase]

Originally Posted by cwcarpenter98

Drum brake 6 lugs won't fit disc brakes without using a spacer, but the 71-87 K10 6 lug wheels will fit disc brakes. You can switch to discs if you desire without giving up on running 6 lugs and hubcaps.

I don't have drop spindles on my 63, but I am running 6 lug disc brakes and stock hubcaps

So if I want to keep my 6 lug I can get a 6 lug drop spindle and rotor and (A) track down a set of 71-87 k series 16" rims so I can reuse my tires or (B) buy a set of 1/2" aluminum spacers for $40 off Ebay and keep my current wheels and tires. Why would anyone not use the spacers beyond not liking the minuscule difference in the look? Is there pros and cons I'm not aware of?

[AcampoDave]

Originally Posted by Chevy nutcase

So if I want to keep my 6 lug I can get a 6 lug drop spindle and rotor and (A) track down a set of 71-87 k series 16" rims so I can reuse my tires or (B) buy a set of 1/2" aluminum spacers for $40 off Ebay and keep my current wheels and tires. Why would anyone not use the spacers beyond not liking the minuscule difference in the look? Is there pros and cons I'm not aware of?

I may be wrong but I think the '71-87 k series rims were 15". The stock 6 lug wheels on my truck are 15" too

[Chevy nutcase]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

I may be wrong but I think the '71-87 k series rims were 15". The stock 6 lug wheels on my truck are 15" too

It wearing 16" wheels is a good source of confusion. I guess a previous owner damaged a wheel and found a whole set cheap or free. One certainly is this truck towed its fair share. It had helper leaf springs, heavy wraparound tow bumper and ball and trailer wiring and evidence of a camper top. I dont know if having 16 rims has anything to do with it.

[lolife99]

If you add a 1/2” spacers,… won’t you will need to have longer lug studs?
I would run drop spindles and aftermarket 6-lug rotors before I ran spacer.

[Chevy nutcase]

Originally Posted by lolife99

If you add a 1/2” spacers,… won’t you will need to have longer lug studs?
I would run drop spindles and aftermarket 6-lug rotors before I ran spacer.

I am buying drop spindles and 6 lug rotors in kit sold by Summit and they are the reason I need to use spacers. 64-66 chevy c10s that came with 4 wheel drums had wheels that were never meant to fit a disk setup. Theres a clearance issue with the wheels and calipers and using a 1/2" spacer solves that. And yes longer studs will be necessary

[bhap]

You can also buy 15 X 8"wheels from Wheel Vintiques - Series 62 I think, that will fit disc brakes and accept a center hubcap if you are trying to keep that look. By the time you change 24 wheel studs and buy the spacers, it would be pretty close in cost and a lot less effort... or go with the Chevy 4X4 rally wheels..

[AcampoDave]

Originally Posted by bhap

You can also buy 15 X 8"wheels from Wheel Vintiques - Series 62 I think, that will fit disc brakes and accept a center hubcap if you are trying to keep that look. By the time you change 24 wheel studs and buy the spacers, it would be pretty close in cost and a lot less effort... or go with the Chevy 4X4 rally wheels..

When I converted my shortbed to disc and 5 lug, I bought their stock replacement 5 on 5 steel wheels for that. Got 'em thru Summit and they were like 80 bucks each. They painted up nice and I had the shop swap my tires over. So it was like 400 bucks all said and done. And yep I saw them in 6 lug too on the Summit website.

[Chevy nutcase]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

When I converted my shortbed to disc and 5 lug, I bought their stock replacement 5 on 5 steel wheels for that. Got 'em thru Summit and they were like 80 bucks each. They painted up nice and I had the shop swap my tires over. So it was like 400 bucks all said and done. And yep I saw them in 6 lug too on the Summit website.

I looked and I dont think they are available in 16"

[Accelo]

You can remove the stop on the lower A arm and cut down the perch for the rubber.
Might give you a little extra till you get rattled from the arms hitting the cross-member.

[slepysal]

Mine is a 60 with torsion bars static drop.
Front is2" drop spindles ( 5 lug disc) and the torsion bars cranked down a bit.
Rear is 4 " drop springs 1967 C10 5 lug 3.73 rear end.

[cwcarpenter98]

It's common knowledge that the drum brake 15" wheels don't fit disc brakes. With the extra inch provided by the 16" wheels, I wonder if that would clear without a spacer?

16" wheels were optional back then and somewhat of a challenge to find these days. Maybe you could go ahead and get the spindles and brakes, check fitment, then acquire different wheels if needed?

[Chevy nutcase]

Originally Posted by cwcarpenter98

It's common knowledge that the drum brake 15" wheels don't fit disc brakes. With the extra inch provided by the 16" wheels, I wonder if that would clear without a spacer?

16" wheels were optional back then and somewhat of a challenge to find these days. Maybe you could go ahead and get the spindles and brakes, check fitment, then acquire different wheels if needed?

That seems like the logical course of action. If the rotors and calipers dont like my wheels ill try 1/2" spacers before new rims unless someone tells me aluminum spacers are dangerous for some reason

[cwcarpenter98]

So the disc spindles will push your front track width out by about a quarter inch each side. Adding a 1/2" spacer each side on top of that will be a total width of 3/4" per side on the front. Depending on how wide your wheels and tires are could cause some fitment issues, especially with the lowering.

Personally, I would purchase different wheels before running spacers, but if you're totally set on running the 16s that accept hubcaps, the spacers might be the better option for you

[Chevy nutcase]

Originally Posted by cwcarpenter98

So the disc spindles will push your front track width out by about a quarter inch each side. Adding a 1/2" spacer each side on top of that will be a total width of 3/4" per side on the front. Depending on how wide your wheels and tires are could cause some fitment issues, especially with the lowering.

Personally, I would purchase different wheels before running spacers, but if you're totally set on running the 16s that accept hubcaps, the spacers might be the better option for you

This is the kind of advice I was hoping for. I didn't know the disk spindles widened the stance and I doubt summit could have answered that question about their own product. I'm not so much madly in love with my wheels and tires as much as if I dont have to fork out an additional $1000 for new wheels and tires if I dont have to when $40 spacers might solve the issue.

[cwcarpenter98]

Originally Posted by Chevy nutcase

This is the kind of advice I was hoping for. I didn't know the disk spindles widened the stance and I doubt summit could have answered that question about their own product. I'm not so much madly in love with my wheels and tires as much as if I dont have to fork out an additional $1000 for new wheels and tires if I dont have to when $40 spacers might solve the issue.

That's what we're here for! The best part is this thread is relevant for others in the future that run into the same questions as you.

Depending on how wide your tire is and how much the spacers push the wheels out, you could end up with clearance issues on the lips of the wheel wells

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Chevy nutcase

This is the kind of advice I was hoping for. I didn't know the disk spindles widened the stance and I doubt summit could have answered that question about their own product. I'm not so much madly in love with my wheels and tires as much as if I dont have to fork out an additional $1000 for new wheels and tires if I dont have to when $40 spacers might solve the issue.

If you space out the wheels you'll need longer studs so include that cost into your scenarios. Doing the studs yourself? If not.... don't forget adding that cost as well.

If you're changing things to 'fit' newer parts, you can also pick & choose where/how the money is spent. For those that don't know/didn't realize:

'Typical' drop spindles widen the track width more than stock disc brake spindles UNLESS they're specifically advertised as 'does not increase track width'. CPP does make such a spindle; other brands don't.
Disc brake set-ups using stock disc spindles are wider than drum set-ups. Disc brake set-ups using typical drop spindles will increase that amount even more.

If you're changing to discs, you can always seek some different front steelies that will work & are similar to your rears so there's no need to buy 4x wheels.

If you like the way the truck currently rides (you're happy w/the springs), I'd opt for the drop spindle route or you could go deeper into chassis mods for a mild drop (1.5" pancaked front x-member). The x-member is def the harder install but doesn't require the brake/wheel changes....

In a nutshell, it's kind of a pick your poison deal. Each possibility has it's positives/negatives depending on that persons particular situation/needs.

[Accelo]

I have never heard of the "1.5" pancaked front x-member".
Is it something that is fabricated at home or a purchased part?

I understand the stock bottom A arm can be modified by removing the metal stop and cutting down the rubber bumper.
I am assuming the 1.5" pancaked front x-member is to go even lower?
I am also guessing one will run out of space to shim the top A arm when you go this low.
So modifying the top A arm is required or it must be replaced with a modified one.
Do I have any of this correct?

Seems to me going from my 2.5" spindles to 63-’70 C10: BELLTECH 4” front DROP may be the best solution if I wanted to go lower in the front?
It appears that it would mess with the steering geometry the least.

Below is a link to some of the many factory options for lowering our trucks.
https://www.streettrucksmag.com/c10-...-buyers-guide/

I lowered my truck but I am considering going lower. Should have made up my mind sooner as it affects so many things like the exhaust.
Cheers

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Accelo

I have never heard of the "1.5" pancaked front x-member".
Is it something that is fabricated at home or a purchased part?

I understand the stock bottom A arm can be modified by removing the metal stop and cutting down the rubber bumper.
I am assuming the 1.5" pancaked front x-member is to go even lower?
I am also guessing one will run out of space to shim the top A arm when you go this low.
So modifying the top A arm is required or it must be replaced with a modified one.
Do I have any of this correct?

Seems to me going from my 2.5" spindles to 63-’70 C10: BELLTECH 4” front DROP may be the best solution if I wanted to go lower in the front?
It appears that it would mess with the steering geometry the least.
Cheers

A BellTech 4" front drop will be a combination of spindles and springs.

The 'pancaked' crossmember is done by modifying a stock unit to allow the frame to sit deeper into it vs resting on top of it. It's an a old school alternative usually only considered by those w/fab skills & greater understanding of how it all works together.

To get an idea of notching/pancaking a front x-member, these are some of the best recent images I know of. This one was done by board member @chevy3100truck :

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...11&postcount=2

[Accelo]

I get it now. Lowers the frame into the cradle. Great idea.
Appreciate the link and explanation.
I wanted to go lower but didn't want the crap/bang ride.
I see now there are several methods to avoid that.
The rear is easy compared to the front suspension.
My next project will be "LOWER"!