55.2-59 Gas pedal question

[MD2020]

1956 chevy truck
I have always used a linkage but want to use a cable.
I drilled a hole in the fire wall level from the Carb. a few years ago.
I have a modified S-10 gas pedal but the cable would need to be about 4" lower, if the cable goes threw the fire wall at a angle is should be good.
My S-10 gas pedal has about 6-1/2" levers top and bottom.
I think I will make my own, the pedal would be mounted to the floor and the linkage would be behind it.
Gas pedal angle too, the 3 lines at the gas pedal are where my brake and clutch linkage come up threw the floor.
Not sure how to do this, can you post some picture and get me on the right track ?

[leegreen]

not sure what you are asking but here is a late 70s c10 pedal. Other side of the firewall is a 250 6 cylinder out of a c10 so the travel was about right. Some tweaks to the shape of the arm and bolted it in. Not driven any distance yet, but it feels OK

[joedoh]

i used an s10 pedal too, i found that I could use it unmodified if I built a spacer that held it off the the firewall a little more than an inch. here is a terrible picture of said spacer, but it works great.

[MD2020]

leegreen that mounted to the floor looks much better than what was in mine mounted on a bracket sticking out from the right, welded to the trams hump.

[jwhotrod]

however you decide to go with this. one thing you need to rememeber is to make sure at WOT the pedal is resting on the finished floor otherwise you will tear the ball or bead right off the end of the cable, they are not ment to hold all of the pressure your foot can place on the pedal.

[MD2020]

Originally Posted by jwhotrod

however you decide to go with this. one thing you need to rememeber is to make sure at WOT the pedal is resting on the finished floor otherwise you will tear the ball or bead right off the end of the cable, they are not ment to hold all of the pressure your foot can place on the pedal.

Yes I have a stop to mount to the firewall behind the tip of my toes.

[mr48chev]

While reading the comments I was remembering that my Nash Metropolitan convertible I had in high school had a nut welded to the floor under the gas pedal with a bolt in it that you could adust as the throttle stop.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I was remembering that my Nash Metropolitan convertible I had in high school

comeon mr48, pics or it never happened

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

comeon mr48, pics or it never happened

I only have about three photos of that car and didn't take any of them myself.

55 Metropolitan convertible that I blew the engine up on more than once. This photo was taken here in front of the house that I live in now and was taken by my dad.

In 1964/65 some of my buddies really liked that car because we could cram four of us in it and with pocket change from each we could take off to Yakima and cruise the ave for hours. The car had a 7 gallon tank and got around 30 mpg. At 35 cents a gallon it took about 2.50 to fill it most of the time so 50 cents each usually bought a full tank of gas. My 97 Monte carlo 2.8 gets about the same mileage now though.

[MD2020]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

While reading the comments I was remembering that my Nash Metropolitan convertible I had in high school had a nut welded to the floor under the gas pedal with a bolt in it that you could adust as the throttle stop.

That is what I made a couple years ago but have not welded the nut in yet.
I need to move the pedal first.

Thanks for the comments guy's

[dsraven]

I have used the old style chevy pedal on a few projects and find the arm can be bent as required or a new arm made to fit the need. as mentioned in other posts it is important to have some flooring or something to simulate the depth of the flooring you will use so the pedal travel can be fine tuned. if you find you don't have enough travel the arm can be made longer if you have room, shorter if you need less travel. you could also fab up an adjustable pedal arm so you can fine tune that to get it right and then make the final pedal arm from that pattern.
pedal placement on the floor and pedal height/angle is also important. otherwise you get a cramp in your leg/calf on longer trips. what I have done sometimes is mock up a wooden wedge to use as a gas pedal for mock up and then sit in the seat with my foot on the pedaland with a coffee. when the coffee is done you will kinda know if the comfort level in your leg will be ok.
make sure to check foot room for access to the brake pedal. also height in comparison to the brake so if you gotta hit the brakes in a hurry to avoid collision it will be easy and no need to lift your foot a lot.
I drove in one vehicle where I found the drivers ( clutch) foot seemed to work it's way under the brake pedal. that was a surprise when I needed the brakes.

[dsraven]

I worked on an offroad buggy that had a lot of travel on the carb end of things. but not much room for the pedal travel. it needed a belcrank installed in the linkage to gain mechanical advantage.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I worked on an offroad buggy that had a lot of travel on the carb end of things. but not much room for the pedal travel. it needed a belcrank installed in the linkage to gain mechanical advantage.

HA

I put motorcycle individual throttle bodies on a 2 liter 4 cylinder once and had the opposite construction project. not that 1" pedal travel between idle and WOT wasnt super exciting to drive. it was like an on/off switch

[_Ogre]

sweet metropolitan! i almost bought one years ago
originally designed that all 4 fenders would be the same fr&rl would swap, same for fl&rr
doors were to be interchangeable left to right, hood and truck interchangeable
never left the factory like that

wikipedia.org/wiki/Nash_Metropolitan