1970 C10 Oil flow issue

[broberson]

I have a 383 stroker with flotek heads on a 383 stroker, and the issue I'm having is oil flow on the passenger side of the engine. I bought an oil pump primer and both sides put out oil on the rocker arms, but the passenger side seems to be ticking more so than the driver side. There is a little bit of smoke coming from the breather on the valve cover and it gets hotter on the passenger side too. Does anyone have any suggestions on what the problem could be? Do I need to adjust the lash on the passenger side?

I'm at a loss as to how to fix the problem. I haven't run the engine for any extended period of time because I don't want to fred flintstone my engine. I have good oil pressure on my gauge, and I have around 6 quarts in the engine, so I know that isn't the problem. Any help is greatly appreciated.

[Grumpy old man]

Why 6 quarts ? What oil are you using ? Has the engine already been "broken in " Post a picture of the engine . Are the valves "ticking" or "clacking" loudly ? How much oil pressure is it showing ?

[broberson]

Its probably closer to 5.5 qts after the oil filter. im using the hotrod oil from joe gibbs, HR5 10W40, and additional oil stabilizer from lucas, totaling 5.5 qts total. Oil pressure shows around 60, its been cold around here. the engine is broken in, and the valves are ticking pretty loud. not insane, but very noticable.

[MikeB]

Could be as simple as improper valve adjustment. But have you pulled the pass side valve cover to see if the rocker arms are getting oil?

Does the engine have a PCV valve? Not having one could cause smoke from the breather.

[LockDoc]

-
Is that the side you poured the Lucas in? Did you mix the Lucas with a quart of oil before you put it in? If I remember right that stuff is pretty thick and would be even more so if it is cold. Maybe it is stopping the oil flow on that side..... Dunno', Just thinking out loud here.

You probably haven't let it warm up to operating temperature and that may be what it needs.

LockDoc

[broberson]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Is that the side you poured the Lucas in? Did you mix the Lucas with a quart of oil before you put it in? If I remember right that stuff is pretty thick and would be even more so if it is cold. Maybe it is stopping the oil flow on that side..... Dunno', Just thinking out loud here.
You probably haven't let it warm up to operating temperature and that may be what it needs.
LockDoc

I felt like I let it warm up pretty good. It got to around 180-190. (I’m hoping my thermostat is functioning). I wasn’t aware that you should mix it before pouring it into the engine, but yes, it’s like frozen honey THICK!!

Originally Posted by MikeB

Could be as simple as improper valve adjustment. But have you pulled the pass side valve cover to see if the rocker arms are getting oil?
Does the engine have a PCV valve? Not having one could cause smoke from the breather.

I pulled both valve covers the other day and used an oil pump primer, both sides were oiling. As far as “equal” oil, it was hard to tell, but I did see oil on both sides. There is a PCV valve on the driver side, but it’s just sitting in the valve cover, there isn’t a hose attachment on the carb for it. The whisps of smoke are coming from the passenger side around the chrome breather near the firewall in the pic.

[NGN]

Not sure if it makes any difference at all but are the valve covers on the wrong sides. Nice looking engine bay.

[Rickjz]

[/QUOTE]I pulled both valve covers the other day and used an oil pump primer, both sides were oiling. As far as “equal” oil, it was hard to tell, but I did see oil on both sides. There is a PCV valve on the driver side, but it’s just sitting in the valve cover, there isn’t a hose attachment on the carb for it. The whisps of smoke are coming from the passenger side around the chrome breather near the firewall in the pic.[/QUOTE]

For the PCV valve to function, it must have a hose connected to a full manifold vacuum source.

[Rickjz]

Maybe you could use a tee on the brake vacuum line.

[72SB]

IMHO that Lucas syrup isn't helping a new engine. As mentioned, it may be inhibiting flow to the PS gally, and the lifters may not be seeing enough oil (but at 180-190 operating temp it should have "blended" with the oil), or the lash is just not right.

FWIW I added a bottle of that Lucas stuff to a I6 I have in my C10 to address an RMS leak....motor took some time "quieting" down but was more a lower end vs valve train noise

Is this a hydraulic roller or flat tappet cam, motor?

I have the same VC I assume your valve train is not making contact with the valve covers but if so, there would be witness marks on the inside of them. I have those VC swapped though with breather on DS and PCV on PS with hose running to a rear Vacuum port on my Eddy carb. Op needs to connect his to a manifold Vac source be it the manifold itself or carb base. It otherwise does not matter which side the PCV is on

OP what is your lash procedure you did?

[72SB]

Factory "T" fitting off manifold was for brake booster and Vac modulator for auto trans

PCV's were plumed into either base of carb (full manifold vac, not ported) or into base of air cleaner

[geezer#99]

PVC’s where never plumbed into the air cleaner!

[72SB]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

PVC’s where never plumbed into the air cleaner!

Correct, meant breather tubes were

[broberson]

Ok, I'll try to get to everyone's replyies. THANKS FOR EVERYONE CHIMING IN!!! Seriously, I love this place. I've gotten so much help over the last couple of years with my truck.

* NGN- Thanks for pointing that out. I've got a T in the manifold just in front of the distributor that I'll hook the PCV up to when I swap the valve covers.

* Rickjz- thank you, please see ^^

*72SB-
1. about the temp, that's what I was thinking. I've used the lucas stuff a bunch, its never taken this long to quiet down.
2. Its a hydraulic flat tappet, E920P 230/230 @0.050 duration 0.480/0.480
3. See ^^ for the PCV
4. I haven't adjusted the lash yet, I've got someone coming over to help on monday since I've never adjusted lash. It seems pretty simple, just being cautious. I'll look to make sure I don't have witness marks. Thanks!

And seriously, thanks again to all you gearheads and grease monkeys. I'm getting real close to finishing Clementine!! That's her name.. I got the service book with the truck purchase, and the original owner had penciled his name on the front cover. Clem... So, Clementine it was!

[72SB]

Originally Posted by broberson

Ok,
*72SB-
1. about the temp, that's what I was thinking. I've used the lucas stuff a bunch, its never taken this long to quiet down.
2. Its a hydraulic flat tappet, E920P 230/230 @0.050 duration 0.480/0.480
3. See ^^ for the PCV
4. I haven't adjusted the lash yet, I've got someone coming over to help on monday since I've never adjusted lash. It seems pretty simple, just being cautious. I'll look to make sure I don't have witness marks. Thanks!

I assume this is a new/rebuilt engine so the valves needed adjusting before engine start. Otherwise a rough in assembly some are way lose or some could be to tight not allowing that valve(s) to close let alone the clack/clack noise of lose rockers

Adjusting valves is not rocket science but it is not only a learned skill...it is also a practiced skill so absolutely have someone who knows how to do it get in there

Most agree the EOIC method is best. Some prefer the engine running method and the factory service manual will say to do 1/2 the valves with #1 at TDC and the other assorted 1/2 with #6 at TDC. All methods work if done right

Before you run the engine again, adjust the valves if this is a new build.

I would also plum the PCV before so you don't build up crank case pressure

I see in pic vacuum advance is not connected. While it can be un-hooked for initial timing with whatever vacuum port (ideally manifold vs ported) on carb plugged, IMHO any street car wants vacuum advance operational otherwise. Whole other conversation about controlling the VA depending on what can is on the dizzy. For first start up and run in, 8 degrees BTDC would be good

If this motor is new, you need to run the motor at 2k rpm for 20 min to break in the cam & lifter surface. You have the right break in oil to do this

[broberson]

Geezer and 72SB- both questions I was gonna ask, thank you again. The motor was an overhaul I purchased at city motor supply in dallas. break in was varied driving staying off the heavy foot. Also, I was tuning the carb so I probably forgot to hook the dizzy and carb.

I took the covers off just now, and there are no witness marks thank God. But you can definitely see a pattern of oil that is bigger over some rockers and little to no oil on others.. its been running long enough to at least have an oily inside valve cover. I’ll post the patter on the cover now.. passenger cover bottom, driver cover top

[geezer#99]

What was the ‘break-in procedure’ on the motor?
How much rpm and for how long?

You can leave the valve covers where they are. The pcv works on either side.

[geezer#99]

From your description of the motor break in, there’s a chance your cam is going flat.
Break in of any motor that has a fresh cam in it requires 20 minutes at 2000 rpm on first fire. The cam and lifters get the majority of their lubrication from oil splash.
With the covers off just look at the rockers for how much movement they have. They should be all the same.
Let us know what you find.

[72SB]

OP

If you drained the oil yet and it has "glitter" in it..than the cam is wiping so at that point its a start over on rebuild.

As noted, the flat tappet cams need the 20 min at 2k run in to bed the cam lobe and lifters in. You used the right type of oil so that "should" be OK if this was done on initial startup.

Ideally the valve re-lash by someone experienced will solve your problem. I would encourage that the push rods be pulled first and inspected that they are clear inside to allow oil to come up through them. Keep them in the same order as the came out and re-install them that way. At this point roll them on a glass surface to confirm none are bent while you have them out

I assume the block was clearanced for the rods right?

If stock pan "sometimes" the area of #2 piston rod bolts hit bottom of pan so a slight push out (BFH) is needed to clear. I only note the block & pan clearance issues for the 383 as without them you will certainly hear "noise". Different than valve train but since we don't know what you hear...are you sure its from valve train??

Like Geezer said all intake valves should move the rocker same height as the exhaust valves do the same for their lift movement. If not and one, or a few, barely move up than that indicates the cam lobe is getting wiped. Another clue is the adjusting nut on rocker stud is noticeably down further than the others

[broberson]

Turns out the rockers were just loose! Had a guy come look at em and adjust them. All good now! Thanks for the input!

[Steeveedee]

^ Best result of ever!

[Ironangel]

NEVER break a motor in with Lucas Oil Stabilizer! You shouldn't even use a 40w oil on break in. Why? Because not only does the cam and lifters get oil from the splash effect, those rings need that oil to properly seat! How do the rings see oil? "Splash!" Ever seen Karo syrup splash? You may have lucked out on the cam, but that smoke in the crankcase indicates blow by which shouldn't be there on a new rebuilt motor. Your valve covers indicate the same, a dull layer of smoky residue. Wet and clean is what you want to see on the inside of them valve covers. Run it like you stole it, keep that PCV intact. And "never" break a motor in with 40w and Lucas Oil Syrup! "Jus Sayin" For the future rebuild...