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01-05-2004, 05:42 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Katy, TX...but the love of my life resides in Dublin,OH.
Posts: 1,408
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bags vs. springs????
Well I was wondering when I would get to this point(like I don’t have enough going on… I want to go and start another project)….I need to know which way to go…
I want to lower my 70 LWB, I want to know which frame I should use, and what method springs and spindles or bags. I want a 4/6 drop and I will probably run 17’s. I don’t want to lay frame or hop it around. My friends are split with which way I should go. I have never ridden in a bagged truck. I have only actually ridden in a lowered (springs) cavalier and it is kinda rough. I want to go the route that will give me the best ride and handling. I don’t expect the ride of a luxury car…. For that matter anything would be better than what I’m used to. And which will be the most economical. Here’s my options: I have the 70 lwb frame with rear coils. I also have a 72 lwb frame with leafs Any way I go, I will use the front discs and convert the rear to 5 lug Should I bag it or spring it? Thanks, |
01-05-2004, 08:06 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,031
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For the rear, on coil trucks the bags would be the easy way to go & they are adjustable, but the initial set-up would cost more than just drop coils. The bags will ride better/smoother.
The leafs will tow a load w/increased stability because they are located farther out on the frame/rear end.... but clearance becomes an issue when lowered. You could add an air-helper kit to the leaf set-up for adjustability, but when all is said & done it would prob cost more than just swapping coils to bags in the first place.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
01-06-2004, 02:07 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Katy, TX...but the love of my life resides in Dublin,OH.
Posts: 1,408
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ok
Say I want to go with the 72 leaf sprung frame... mainly because it has a posi rear end and the front discs... I was going to attempt to move everything to the coil rear... but that is way more work.
is there a flip kit for the 72 rear? all i see on the net is 73 and up? I really didnt want to pony up the cash to buy drop leafs.. I wanted to keep this under 500.00 but it looks like that is too low of a budget to get what I want ( the front will eat up more than half my budget) |
01-06-2004, 09:45 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,031
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The main difference in the 73/later leafs is the width. You could try Early Classics or Classic Perf Parts & see what they offer or.... make your own flip kit.
Buy a kit for the later rear & modify the axle re-locating perches if they won't work. You could prob just chopsaw them in half, grind the 2 halves square (and to the correct leaf spring width) & get them re-welded. If your doing all the other work it shouldn't be beyond your abilities. Just something to consider.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
01-07-2004, 02:26 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Katy, TX...but the love of my life resides in Dublin,OH.
Posts: 1,408
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I found a DJM flip kit for the 72. I will have to go measure my leafs to see if they are 2.25" but I can do that this weekend. I'll keep the cutting and welding it back up in mind if that kit won't do it. Thanks... now to get started
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