Clutch Chatter and Oil Leaks

[SacramentoJoe]

I'm going after a repair for clutch chatter and I think I should apply for the gunkiest engine award. Even after de-greasing and pressure washing, it seems as if I barely made a dent.

I got the flywheel off and I was going to pull the oil pan and start replacing gaskets.

Can I slide the oil pan out without jacking the engine or will it still hit the front crossmember? I already have the rear mounts removed, I was concerned about pulling the front mounts since, I will need to support the engine on a jack.

[MySons68C20]

I replaced a rear main seal 40+ years ago on my old 68 with a 307 without having to iirc.

[samert111]

You may have to rotate the crankshaft some to position the crankshaft counter balance weights on the front cylinders out of the way to give the front of the oil pan lip enough room to clear them.

[72SB]

IIRC when crank is turned to #6 TDC the cheeks are in their highest position. IDK though if there is enough clearance to get pan off without raising engine a few inches though

[SacramentoJoe]

It fell right out. There seemed to be plenty of clearance.

Still got a lot to clean-up. I almost need a chisel to get through some of this stuff.

Hopefully I can get some paint to stick.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by SacramentoJoe

It fell right out. There seemed to be plenty of clearance.

Still got a lot to clean-up. I almost need a chisel to get through some of this stuff.

Hopefully I can get some paint to stick.

I used Ezoff oven cleaner the old stuff not the new nice smelling stuff . If you leave it on long enough the paint comes off too .

Degrease it enough the paint will stick .

[SacramentoJoe]

I got the crankshaft rear oil seal out. I have never done it before. I was always scared to unbolt the bearing cap. I had trouble getting the seal to push out. My son gave me some needle nose pliers and said to try to wiggle it, and that did the job.

[samert111]

Originally Posted by SacramentoJoe

I got the crankshaft rear oil seal out. I have never done it before. I was always scared to unbolt the bearing cap. I had trouble getting the seal to push out. My son gave me some needle nose pliers and said to try to wiggle it, and that did the job.

That bearing looks like its worn into the copper base material.
Might as well change the bearings while your into it this far.

[geezer#99]

Get a wire wheel for your drill.
And use a safety shield if you do.


https://www.ebay.ca/itm/134501605121

[SacramentoJoe]

I think I spent more time cleaning parts than I spent wrenching.

Now, I just need to get the transmission pilot bushing out so I can put things back together. I remember last time, I packed it with grease and hit it with a rod, but I can't find any tool. It seemed like it was something common. Any ideas?

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by SacramentoJoe

I think I spent more time cleaning parts than I spent wrenching.

Now, I just need to get the transmission pilot bushing out so I can put things back together. I remember last time, I packed it with grease and hit it with a rod, but I can't find any tool. It seemed like it was something common. Any ideas?

Might try this method of using a bolt and a nut with a screwdriver. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...tail&FORM=VIRE A Dremel or a die grinder can be used to cut the bushing. Sometimes a slide hammer with a hook will pull them.

[geezer#99]

Wood dowel works.

[RustyPile]

I always use my Lisle clutch alignment tool.. Fill the bearing with grease and tap it out.. I put a washer under the pilot "plug" and use the tool to drive the new bearing in place.

https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...alignment-tool

[HalfBrit]

If you happen to have a slide hammer, this works well.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/o...RoCQkIQAvD_BwE

[72SB]

Autozone Loan-a-Tool has a Blind Hole puller. #27128 Very easy to use to remove pilot bushing. Use a short piece of wood closed dowel to pond in new one.

[SacramentoJoe]

Anyone know where I can find a replacement bolt?

[Steeveedee]

I'm drawing a blank on the grade of those bolts. How many marks are on the head? You may be able to find one at your local hardware store.

[SacramentoJoe]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I'm drawing a blank on the grade of those bolts. How many marks are on the head? You may be able to find one at your local hardware store.

Here is the stamping on the bolt. I (Google) can't find any info.

[RustyPile]

Well, it appears I don't have any that exact length.. i did a quick search on Summit's site and found this..

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-5001

[SacramentoJoe]

Although I couldn't find an exact match anywhere around town, I found a bolt that worked. I got the rear main seal in, replaced the oil pump while I was there, and got a new clutch kit installed.

Clutch isn't chattering anymore. The oil pan gasket is still leaking though.

[jumpsoffrock]

You've been through a lot in the last couple weeks so I don't want to say anything that makes you feel worse. lol

I recently rebuilt an engine in another truck and was happy to find the front and rear main seals don't leak, not even after 6k miles.
The pan was leaking the next day, not too bad, but somethin....The front/rear mains in my BBC that is in my truck right now doesn't leak; the pan does.


I wonder if any of these old engines pans ever sealed, and how long they stayed like that. lol

[SacramentoJoe]

So, I went back after my oil pan leak.

I couldn't get enough clearance to drop the oil pan completely off. Since I had the Fellpro one-piece gasket, I threaded that under the the oil pump to get it out, cleaned everything up, used some rtv on the ends, and put it back in.

I also noticed it was leaking from the front cover and the crankshaft seal. I pulled that off and replaced the timing chain, too. The water pump didn't have alot of miles on it but was pretty old, so I replaced that.

Took a test drive up to to Auburn cruise night. No leaks. Yay!

I'll try to post some pics of the trucks.

[SacramentoJoe]

A few pics

[SacramentoJoe]

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[SacramentoJoe]

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