47-55.1 Running wires into doors

[8man]

On the 48 I used the contact type connector, so when the door is closed, the door locks have power and when open the interior lights come on.

On the 54 I want to run power windows along with the locks and lights. So how do you get power into the door? I want to be able to roll the windows up/down when the door is open or closed.

Pictures of what you did would help.

Thanks.

[mr48chev]

There are tons of "car door wire protectors" out there https://www.google.com/search?q=car+...hrome&ie=UTF-8

Most seem to be 3/8 id and need a 3/4 hole https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09STG3FBT...9kZXRhaWw&th=1
I've also seen guys weld a piece of tubing to the hinge arm in a way they could run wires through it but those tubes are usually pretty small and most of us need more wires than they can handle

[8man]

Thank you.

If anybody has a picture of these in use, I'd appreciate seeing it.

[leegreen]

It is tough on the AD cab as the door and jamb fit very close when closed.
The acordian style and Z fold style wont work as there is no room - that eliminates everything you will find in a junk yard.

Speedway and other vendors sell a style that is a braided line sheath that is fixed on the jamb and slides into the door as it closes, but even those the flange on the fixed side looks like it may be too think

Somewhere on the site is a shop made version with an arced piece of tubing, one end has a washer welded on that sits inside the A pillar and is held in with a small screw, the other end slides into the door as it closes. Probably took some trial and error to get the arc in the tube and the hole in the door right.

I just ran two wires for door speaker and taped them to the bottom of lower hinge.
If I needed more wires or if my speaker stops working I'd probably do the tube welded to hinge thing, use whatever size of tube was needed and make a hole next to hinge for it

You can also get those open contact type for 8 or so conductors, that would do most doors, but my experience with that style with OEM versions has not been great.

[8man]

Thanks, I thought the door and jamb were awfully close together, that's why I went with the button contacts for the locks and lights on the 48.

I hope someone has a lead on the ones you described.

[dsraven]

I would say try a length of hose attached to the hinge, a diameter close to the size of your wiring bundle needed for all the electrical you need in the door. if you tape that to the hinge and it doesn't get hung up then you could use a thin wall tube or hose and put your wires inside it so they are hidden. you may be able to find a ribbon wire as well. like a trailer wiring ribbon wire that has 5 or 6 wires in it. that would keep the bundle low profile in the hinge area and up tight to the metal of the hinge part. you could also look at under carpet wiring suppiers as they have all sorts of ribbon style wiring and covers. this is a link to something that could be used to cover the loose wires in the hinge area. just a thought.
https://www.amazon.ca/UT-Wire-UTW-CP...62803530&psc=1

[dsraven]

this is the trailer ribbon idea, just a site that came up quick on a search for you to get the idea. not sure of the gauge you would need for your accesories.
https://www.rallylights.com/deka-16-...iler-wire.html

[dsraven]

I guess you could do 2 separate runs since there are 2 hinges. that could possibly supply enough wires with a flat bonded style wire cable. the max number on a trailer style cable will likely be 5 conductors but possibly low voltage outdoor lighting suppliers could find you something. that would supply enough circuits in a low profile scenario.
https://www.environmentallights.com/...8awg-reel.html

[8man]

Good ideas. I will look at the hinges right.

[_Ogre]

not sure what the hinge action is nor your fab capability. look at what i made for my 58 truk. i tried a couple different purchased wire chases that didn't work. i drew up the hinge/door pivot points from the top and designed these beauties. they've worked fine for 13 years that my build has been complete. the last pic is all it is. i have door popper safety cable, door popper, power window and speaker wires run in them, nothing available would have handled the number of wires i used.

[8man]

Ogre, I looked at that last night, but didn't get it. Today I understand it. I'll look into that too. Thanks

[mr48chev]

I remember seeing those from when you posted them a few years ago. Quite a setup if you have the skills to build it.

[8man]

I have the braided threaded ones, but the way the door opens, it looks like it will crush the braided part.

I took some measurements on Ogre's design, and I think it will work on the 54 door. So I'm going looking for some aluminum to work with.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I remember seeing those from when you posted them a few years ago. Quite a setup if you have the skills to build it.

It was quite the technical process.

Drill, jigsaw and a file was the only tools used. All the material came from home depot: ¾" aluminum square tubing, ¼"x2" aluminum bar stock and ⅛" roll pin. I did a write up in my build thread.

It took me longer to get a plan and draw it up, than it took to manufacture it.

[_Ogre]

I strongly recommend that you install your passenger side first

[8man]

How did you fit the square tubing into the door? Was the hole the exact size of the square tube? Any other tips you recall?

Thanks for the help!

[_Ogre]

oversized round hole made with an electrical knockout and then i made a bushing out of a teflon cutting board. my above comment was cuz everything i did first to the drivers door was a little off. the square tube barely touches the edge of the hole and it screeches every time i open the door, passenger side is flawless

[dsraven]

Funny how we always do the drivers side first, take forever to engineer it build it and install it. It's usually a little off but we are basically happy with whatever it was. The passengers side gets done last but turns out better due to figuring out possible places to make it better.

[leegreen]

you should start with passenger side, as primarily the driver you will see the mistake you make less often, and chances are the passenger will not be aware of them!

Ogre's solution is great, will copy that if I ever need to redo my hack job

[8man]

Thanks again Ogre!

I have one more question, can you get a picture of the door and the teflon fitting? I'll probably have more as I start building it, but for now anyway.

[_Ogre]

I'm calling it a bushing. I just cut a piece of plastic with a sloppy hole for the square tubing to slide in/out. It's stuck inside the door with double sided tape. No picture of them.

[dsraven]

ogre, your truck is great, lots of innovative ideas. the fiberglass work alone is inspiring. it is great to see a truck in the shape that yours is in and know it is driven all over the place instead of sitting in a shop or trailer. awesome job and always great helpful comments for others so they can keep moving forward and finish their projects too.

[_Ogre]

thanks! like i tell anyone "all it takes is time and money" relative speaking my interior was inexpensive, however i spent over a year on it. hard to believe truk has been on the road 13 years.