47-55.1 parking brake

[nvrdone]

OK, I need to get rid of the stock parking brake pedal assembly because its totally worn out.
I saw a car today that had a pull handle between the left end of the seat and the door.
Anyone ever done something like this?
Pictures would be appreciated.

[fauXGT]

The cab I bought had no brake hardware, so I remembered Grampa's 65 Chevy truck under the dash handle. Made a plate on the firewall to hold the cable that does go to discs in the rear, but the old hardware would've been impossible to adapt for my newer suspension. Worked out better for me.

[mr48chev]

I've got the foot park brake out of I'm thinking a 74 Pontiac Catalina in my 48 but just about any foot park brake from a 70's or early 80's GM full size or truck up to 87 shoudl work. I've got mine rather high up because I put it above the speaker box but it would be just like in the donor rig if you mounted it right.

This is one out of a 73/87 Chevy.GMC truck, Super easy to find with the cable with it an it shouldn't be spendy and you can snag the extra pieces off the donor.

If I am thinking right they just used the pull handle out of a bucket seat donor car. That may or may not be the easiest to climb over if if it is on the outside of the seat. Slick looking but maybe not that practical.

[dsraven]

there is the electrically operated linear actuator style, like newer cars have. just a button on the dash. there is probably a kit out there somewhere. I think there are a few fellas with the s10 foot operated style and, if memory serves, the cable exits forward and slightly down. if you're looking for something that could fit between the seat and the door, without opening a new butt crack for you each time to exit, maybe an older ford econiline style that is either laid flat when off or fully vertical when on. it could be a pain to apply /release in that area though
https://partsavatar.ca/dorman-hd-sol...BoCdiAQAvD_BwE
jeep has a pedal assy that exits downward if that interests you
https://www.amazon.ca/Adjustable-Eme.../dp/B0C53TYKWV

[mobileortho]

[QUOTE=dsraven;9236397]there is the electrically operated linear actuator style, like newer cars have. just a button on the dash. there is probably a kit out there somewhere. /QUOTE]

I bought a kit like that awhile back but haven’t gotten around to installing it yet.

[vintovka]

I used the stock one out of the 84 GMC Sierra Classic in the 54 cab. Fit and Works fine but pedal comes up way high and can set it by hand which is a minor problem. Did have to add a additional return spring to keep rears from occasional dragging.

[dsraven]

some newer venicles have the push to apply-push again to release pedal system. that would eliminate the need for a release handle, which can add bandaids to the knee sometimes.
I have a hand brake between the seats in my build

[vintovka]

Recent experience with factory installed electric emergency brakes has left me with doubts. Our fancy new Mazda cx-9 has them. They destroyed rears as it caused them to rub resulting in a $600 repair. Still hashing it out with them but seems mechanicals still may be a better choice.

[dsraven]

yeah, I'm also not a fan of them but to each their own. I was just giving options. a good return spring on the actuator would be a requirement from my perspective.

[nvrdone]

mr48chev:
I like the one out of an 80's gm. that may be a possibility. If I mount one under the dash, I prefer one with a release handle. Makes hill starts with a 4 spd easier.
As far as a floor mounted handle, Ive got a 3rd row seat out of an Astro van. Fits good and is comfortable. I have about 5" between the door and the edge of the seat. So a floor mounted handle may work.
Thanks for all the ideas.

[leegreen]

I used a foot brake from a 90's GM pickup. released with the original 1952 release rod cut down.



To get the cable to exit where I wanted it I had to rotate the assembly and to get full travel on the pedal I had to shorten it and cut a pie wedge to rotate it. So it has lost some leverage and you have to push a bit firmer but it works fine.

Here is a shot of it mocked up on the inner cowl panel before that got welded in.

[leegreen]

Nobody asked but I wanted to share this

Shortening ebrake cables has always been a problem. You can buy adjustable ends with grub screws. but for me these have never held. You can use saddle clamps, but that looks pretty 'farmer'. Years ago I was into building dune buggies and shortened the cables by silver soldering, but perhaps 1 attempt in 2 would fail when you put some strain on it, it was tedious and expensive.

For my 1952 I made adjusters from old 3 speed trans shift lever adjusters, drilled them out , cut a three notches and brazed the cable into the notches.


man did that ever work well! Here I tried trying to break a test piece made with a single brazed notch. The fulcrum is the bottom of the vice jaw and I could put everything I had into the end of the crowbar and it held.

[dsraven]

I live in Calgary and have done as LG has before out of necessity but now I know there are a few places that make custom park brake cables, stainless braided brake hoses, etc. Greenline hose in calgary, possibly other hydraulic hose shops in your area also.

[vintovka]

Originally Posted by leegreen

I used a foot brake from a 90's GM pickup. released with the original 1952 release rod cut down.

Attachment 2294412

To get the cable to exit where I wanted it I had to rotate the assembly and to get full travel on the pedal I had to shorten it and cut a pie wedge to rotate it. So it has lost some leverage and you have to push a bit firmer but it works fine.

Here is a shot of it mocked up on the inner cowl panel before that got welded in.
Attachment 2294411

Nice job. I would love to do that on mine.

[leegreen]

for the between seat and door option, two ideas:

generic forklift park brakes. The ones I'm thinking of rotate a full 90 degrees between off (down) and on (vertical). The end of the knob rotates to adjust the cable tension so that over centering affect works.
If you have room between seat and door to reach it and located it so the up/on position lines up with the seat back it would not be in your way getting in and out

you could also use a straight pull brake lever like was used on some older vehicles (late 70's toyota pickups are one I know for sure). pulls straight out from dash, twist end to release. It could be mounted for a vertical pull beside seat back

[dsraven]

Yeah, forgot about the Toyota style ones. The forklift style is one I posted a link for. Same kinda deal as some old econoline Van's had, as well as a lot of cabover 2 ton city deliver
Style trucks

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

OK, I need to get rid of the stock parking brake pedal assembly because its totally worn out.
I saw a car today that had a pull handle between the left end of the seat and the door.
Anyone ever done something like this?
Pictures would be appreciated.

i've run my truk without a parking brake for 13 years. i keep thinking about installing one and would probably use a handle to the left of the seat like you saw. my console would need a total redo and redesign to mount in the middle.

[dsraven]

if you have rear drum style brakes then the park brake mechanism is part of the brake shoe adjustment so I would advise to keep it in that case. depending on local authorities it may also be required to pass inspection should you need one of those done.

[_Ogre]

i was gonna say that lokar has a nice brake lever until i saw they want $250 for it. yowza!

google hotrod brake lever, this little beauty popped up for $39


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...xoCKWgQAvD_BwE

[mr48chev]

The wrecking yards are full of those hand brakes for pocket change. I had one out of a Mustang II in my T bucket in the 70's and that style is pretty much a copy of the Vega or MII unit.

[vintovka]

I still think the 80's GM brake set up may be the best. Has worked for me for almost 24 year and just used it again 5 minutes ago. Reshaping the brake arm is nice but optional. IIRC it was an easy bolt in deal and free as well. Again the only issue i had was adding the additional return spring. The small AD cabs limit space to point it seems like the only option other than an electric which i do not trust. Speaking of which, the original brake in my 54 was worn and unreliable. Not sure of others experiences but mine often slipped even when carefully set leading to some real problems -some of which were both costly and dangerous.

[Tempest67]

I used the parking brake assembly from the S10 I salvaged.

When the outer cowl panel was being replaced, I welded a metal plate (18 guage) with 3 nuts to the back side of the kick panel for strength.

For the release lever, I made a rod and welded a handle to it, and capped the ends with 2 plastic plugs. (see pic)

Unfortunately, I mounted it too far back, as I sometimes hit it when getting into or out of the truck. My suggestion, mount is as far forward as possible.

Also, for an intermediate cable, buy a cable that is too long for your needs, and set it up with the front cable and the rear 2 cables. Mark the cable where it needs to be cut, and weld a 'glob' on to the end to make an 'end' that will fit into the 'union' between 1 of the rear cables and the intermediate cable. (see pic, sorry its blurry)

Hope this helps

[vintovka]

Nice set up. I can see how release might get in way. AD cabs are tiny and every inch valuable.

[leegreen]

That s10 unit looks more compact for pedal swing, but it is surprisingly thick.
The 99-06 GM unit I used is about half as thick. This may not be an issue depending if you need room for a clutch pedal

Here is a shot to compare to the s10 unit (sorry it is fuzzy, all I could find from the right angle)

[Tempest67]

Yes, the S10 brake assembly is certainly not attractive, but it works. (and the price was right)