55.2-59 What brake reservoir 55 TF

[1955 3100]

I'm looking into getting my parts and start working on my 1955 TF. I'm assuming everyone switches the stock single reservoir for a safer double reservoir. What have any of you used? I hope that makes sense? Thanks in advance.

[Rickysnickers]

My truck has a vacuum power booster and a Wilwood master cylinder. If you are starting from scratch, I would really encourage you to look at investing in a hydroboost system.

[mr48chev]

It depends on if you plan to run power or other changes to the actual brakes. The 68 C-10 manual brake Dual master cylinder works great for just changing from a single piston to dual master cylinder. YOU have to buid or buy a mount to run the floor pedal.

They aren't too hard to build, I think my buddy and I built mine in about 30 minutes but I battled the push rod until I built one that was strong enough.

Under the floor you will want residual valves in the lines. The original master cylinder has one built in that they call a check valve.

I deleted the one I showed because it may have only been for an AD.

Speedway shows this for a 56/59 I'm not a big Speedway fan but they are easy to search most of the time.

[dsraven]

here is what a swap over master cylinder will look like
https://hotrodhardware.com/products/...der-conversion
things to consider when looking for a swap over master cylinder
drum brakes have a residual valve built into the outlet where the line screws on. disc brake master cylinders don't have that feature. some rebuilt units are originally disc brake units and may not have the required residual valve. google it for a pic of actual port with res valve installed and not installed so you know what to look for
some master cylinders will have come from a vehicle that has the outlets on the wrong side so harder or impossible to get the lines connected
the reservoir fill location may not be exactly placed like the old master cyl so a larger hole may be required in the floor or a "fill from underside" method may need to be adapted
inspect the rest of the mechanical system for the pedal and ensure it is going to be serviceable. no use installing a new master cylinder on a worn out pedal system that is binding or sloppy and won't allow the pedal to function like it should
also inspect/repair the park brake system, as well as the rest of the brake system, because the park brake assists in rear brake adjustment and will help in pedal travel if adjusted correctly

[Hcb3200]

Once I switched to hydroboost still under cab frame mounted dual master with disc on the front life was grand. Nothing like trying to stop four drums manual with a load on a wet road
Keeping it on the frame left room in engine bay. I run a remote fill to the engine bay. I got really tired of going under to check levels after brake work.


I will never go back.

[dsraven]

it will kinda depend on what your plan is for the truck. nobody is gonna fault you for installing a dual cylinder on a classic "built back to stock" truck but if you plan to do other changes, like changing to an engine with more power, IFS with disc brakes or a differential and rear suspension change, etc then really think about what you will NEED for brakes. a go fast truck with stock brakes is kind of a bad choice. brakes should always outperform the power. if thats the case then you will need to decide if you want a firewall mounted system or a frame mounted system. hydro boost will deliver the best brakes and be a small package but you will need a power steering pump to supply the hydraulic side of things. if you are doing a simple master cylinder change to get a dual system then choose one that came from a truck with drum/drum brakes. i think some of the classic truck online stores sell a master cylinder that is a near direct fit but all will require some sort of do it yourself fabrication for brake lines and possibly a pushrod.

[1955 3100]

Thank you all for the suggestions. I really appreciate it. So my goal is to "eventually" get disc in the front. It will be getting a 350 possibly with a few performance mods. I can see I have to prioritize what I do so it can handle the later upgrades. I would definately like to deal with the master cylinder while the motor is out. Thanks again.

[daveshilling]

I swap out any truck I'm sprucing up and intend to drive around with a dual master and vacuum-powered brakes for ease of installation.

I grab the following (should be able to Google these):

• Dorman M39052 Brake Master Cylinder
• 7" Dual Diaphragm Universal Power Brake Booster
• Universal Brake Booster Extension Rod Clevis Kit
• 1955-59 Chevy GMC Truck Frame Mount Brake Booster Bracket (https://www.ebay.com/itm/125152443213) that lets me keep the factory pedal.
• 10lb residual valves for drum brakes (swap out for 2lb on the front when the time comes for disc brakes and add an adjustable prop valve)
• Dorman Brake Power Booster Filter 80195
• 3 feet of vacuum hose

You could keep manual brakes and save a few bucks on some of these parts...but why? Manual brakes work fine, but power brakes work better.


My personal build is a hydroboost setup, but that's more costly and involved, particularly due to the high-pressure lines and fittings needed, vs. a simple 3 foot vacuum hose from the local parts store.

[1955 3100]

Thank you! I will most likely go the way Dave outlined here.

[1955 3100]

Finally had time to get to work on the truck. Got the engine running, but before I install it I installed the new dual master cylinder and booster under cab. When I install brake lines should I use 3/16" or 1/4" line? I will probably use copper line. Do I just need to use a "t" block to split the line to the front and rear to each wheel? I have drum brakes all around for now. Also have the proportioning valve for each line that is for the drum brakes.
So I want to be sure to use the right size line and make sure I don't need any other type valves or other things.

[Hcb3200]

Originally Posted by 1955 3100

Finally had time to get to work on the truck. Got the engine running, but before I install it I installed the new dual master cylinder and booster under cab. When I install brake lines should I use 3/16" or 1/4" line? I will probably use copper line. Do I just need to use a "t" block to split the line to the front and rear to each wheel? I have drum brakes all around for now. Also have the proportioning valve for each line that is for the drum brakes.
So I want to be sure to use the right size line and make sure I don't need any other type valves or other things.

Either line size is fine but DO NOT USE COPPER. It is not allowed on brake systems. Either Steel or NiCop line (combination of nickel and copper)
NiCop allows for easier bending. But is more expensive.

Depending on your booster ports if you have one port a T for the front brakes and a tee on the back brake line is fine. remember to run a Brake hose line from frame to rear axle with fixed mounts on each end if you tee on the axle like stock. Since you frame mounted make sure you put in your check valves (residual valves). depending on what proportioning valve you have some have those built in others do not and will require external.

I highly recommend putting a remote reservoir in the engine bay. they make kits for this. Its a whole lot better than going under the truck to check or having to go in thru the floor if you plan on putting a flooring in (carpet, rubber, dynamat etc) less worry about spilling as well.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by 1955 3100

Finally had time to get to work on the truck. Got the engine running, but before I install it I installed the new dual master cylinder and booster under cab. When I install brake lines should I use 3/16" or 1/4" line? I will probably use copper line. Do I just need to use a "t" block to split the line to the front and rear to each wheel? I have drum brakes all around for now. Also have the proportioning valve for each line that is for the drum brakes.
So I want to be sure to use the right size line and make sure I don't need any other type valves or other things.

I run the 3/16 and it's probably cheaper to boot. Yes, you will tee off close to the left front wheel, and run that along the crossmember to the passenger side.

The remote reservoirs are cool... and they're also pretty expensive for a lid with some holes in them. You already have a lid, so I bet you could sort out how to add your own holes and fittings!

You can also just add a new hole in the cab floor above the reservoir. If you're using a floormat/carpet, this would probably get the job done:

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Acudor-U...ess-Door-Steel
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Acudor-P...SCWH/202925576

[Hcb3200]

Yea I did exactly that

Brake Reservoir, Fits VW Beetle 68-79, Ghia 68-79, Compatible with Dune Buggy search on amazon 12 bucks

couple fittings from hardware store 5 bucks
Hose compatible with brake fluid 8 bucks

Drilled some holes in the lid and was done.

[1955 3100]

Sorry I should have called it NiCop. That's what I was thinking of. Here are the check valves I bought:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1
Here is the booster: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I will definitelycheck out the remote reservoirs.
I was wrong on calling the valves proportioning valves, the valves I bought are check valves
Thank you very much for the help.

[Hcb3200]

ok sounds like you are on the right path.
Pop some pictures on with your progress. We love pictures around here.

[1955 3100]

Ok Thanks again

[1955 3100]

I like the remote reservoir idea. Will make my own. Thanks

[Hcb3200]

Make sure your remote reservoir has the accordion style rubber in the cap.
You don't want one that is just a vent hole as this exposes the fluid to air and therefore moisture. The link i posted was one that was just a vent but I found a cap that had the accordion style.

They make some better reservoirs that have caps that have the accordion rubber seal.

your master has this already but you will need to modify if doing a remote.

the accordion style lets fluid flow by not creating a vacuum but also not exposing it to outside air

[1955 3100]

What would I have to do to keep the accordion seal working correctly with the fittings in the cap.

[Hcb3200]

nothing if the cap has one it should work just like the one in the master cylinder it just expands down allowing the volume to fill with air but keeping it from contact with the fluid. the vacuum provided by the master pulling fluid into the lines will pull down the seal as it is needed. the key is the air hole allowing the seal to expand and compress.

[Hcb3200]

think of it this way. your master cylinder cap has a seal that is accordion style already. you are removing this replacing with a seal around the edges (including middle) then hoses up the remote res.

then the accordion style seal should now be in the cap of your remote reservoir.

[1955 3100]

Originally Posted by Hcb3200

think of it this way. your master cylinder cap has a seal that is accordion style already. you are removing this replacing with a seal around the edges (including middle) then hoses up the remote res.

then the accordion style seal should now be in the cap of your remote reservoir.

That is the part I wasn't sure of. I will look for a seal for the master cylinder to replace the accordion one it has.