Rebuild engine or go new?

[skokie]

Im sure that this question has been asked well A LOT but here we go again. Made in Mexico crate 350 engine that needs a rebuild. Tear it out of the 68 C10 hot tank and magnaflux to see if its good and rebuild or buy a new long block?
Truck is a 68 C10 SWB. I dont have plans to build it to 400+ HP etc. Would like to keep it around 275-350 HP give or take either way. Its going to be driven quite often and I am looking for it to last a while and be reliable.

Thanks everyone I appreciate it!

[Accelo]

With the price of labor, it's likely less money to go with a mass-produced new motor.
Whichever method you choose go with a roller cam. If your existing block doesn't have a roller cam along with the better one-piece seals the Vortec heads and center bolt valve covers it's not even a contest.
Cheers

['68OrangeSunshine]

If it was a Flint, Mich. high-nickel block, I'd rebuild that.
Hecho en Mexico, not so much.
But you'll get a warranty with a new crate long block.

[truckster]

I like building engines. It's hard to justify the cost anymore, though. The machine work to do it right, plus good quality parts, can cost almost as much as, or even more than, some crate engines.

I second the L31 for a replacement engine. One-piece rear main seal, roller cam, and great-flowing heads. You will need some new parts: Intake manifold, new flex plate, and you might need an electric fuel pump if the block isn't drilled for a mechanical pump.

[Myself]

There's a reason that mass produced crate engines are less than you could build one for.......it's all about that profit and the all mighty dollar. I just had an IH 345 machined for a buddy that I'll be building. I'm currently trying to get machine work done on a 305, and I have my son's Lincoln 462 engine sitting here ready to build. I simply DO NOT trust anybody but myself to build them. As stated, I want mine to last and be reliable.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

If a SBC is like a BBC and takes era correct GM HP heads, then build that up IMO, bolts and appearances remain factory. ROCHESTER Might need heads anyway.

Wish I knew how to build an engine like above, suppose I could take a class or two. I've only done simple, like distributor, pumps, chain, manifolds and such; never a core.

[72c20customcamper]

The high volume builders can offer engines cheaper because they buy a large volume of parts getting discounts . By the time I was done rebuilding my 350 I’d be into almost as much as a new engine from Blue Print and my buddy has a machine shop . And I would have had a flat tappet engine . So it made sense to buy the Blue Print engine

[Myself]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Wish I knew how to build an engine like above, suppose I could take a class or two. I've only done simple, like distributor, pumps, chain, manifolds and such; never a core.

It's really not difficult, and takes mostly common hand tools. You can pick up a book on your exact engine that shows every step. I let the machine shop install cam bearings and put the pistons on the rods. You know, there was a time I didn't know how to build one, or a transmission, or body and paint................WHere there's a will, there's a way!

[67C10Step]

Agree with Myself. Hmm, that sounds funny to say.

Anyway, just finished up helping a buddy rebuild his 350 for his 68. As was said above, he had the shop install the cam bearings and pistons on the rods. He and I put the bottom end together and checked all the bearing clearances. He has his first 6-700 miles on it now and runs strong.

Me? I’m seriously looking at Blueprint because I can get more HP’s for the dollar than it would take to get my little 283 to 300 horsepower.

[Already Gone]

Here ya go pick one... https://www.chevrolet.com/performanc.../crate-engines

[MARKDTN]

You probably can't build it for what you can buy one for and finding a real machine shop these days is harder and harder-BUT-I would still build my own. I would probably go buy a junkyard (or pick-a-part) 96-99 Vortec 5.7 and build that instead. You get much better heads and a 1-pc rear seal. I would fuel inject it but even if you carb it you will have a nice foundation for a build that should last a long time.

[my67c20]

I guess the question is why does it need to be rebuilt? If its just miles and lacks power, then I would do a compression and cylinder leak test. 2 simple tests that can help to diagnose the level of rebuild needed.

[1970cstblazer]

IF I was going the rebuild route, I would only begin with a proper vintage 4 bolt main high nickel content iron block, then with some good flowing heads. Retain the rams horns, or go with the Vette rams horns. Top it off with a Q-Jet, and it will go another 50 years. Caveat on cams/lifters. Poor metallurgy and heat treating has led to an epidemic of flat cams, and it's blamed on the lack of zinc in the oil. Rollers will help this, but even new engines are having roller lifter issues. QC after CV-19 is nonexistent.

[72SB]

I have always found it cheaper and faster too buy a crate motor (short or long block). Machine shop costs are high, deservedly so, and the few that are left are backed up so prepare to wait.

I was going to rebuild my 327 because, well its a 327. After costing it out I decided on a Blueprint engines 355. Full roller, 1 piece RMS, 4 bolt mains. Blocks are new and csat in Ohio. There is nothing used in their motors. 3 year/50k mi warranty. I have about 10k mi on it now. Runs great, no leaks.

BPE shop tour video is very impressive (30 min) showing the entire build process. Robotics and several of the machines are engineered and built in house. Every motor is dyno.

[Steeveedee]

I watched that tour. I especially like that piston ring installer. I've installed hundreds of rings. BPE 454 engines are $9400 now. I might be able to do my 402 for less, but I'd want a roller cam and lifters. By the time I went through all those upgrades, might as well buy new. I think I just sold myself on a new engine.

[skokie]

Thanks for all of the info guys. I do appreciate it. After reading the comments and searching the board I have come to the decision that well it would be better to go new so I called blueprint engines today and spent an hour on the phone that had to suffer through me asking 500 questions. LOL
When the time comes which I hope to be in the next month or so, lets face it money $$$$$ dont grow on trees, this will be the one that I am going for.

https://blueprintengines.com/collect...locks-350-c-i/
products/blueprint-engines-350ci-crate-engine-new-cast-iron-longblock-aluminum-heads-roller-cam

Thanks again! The replies are the reason I keep coming back to this board. When the times comes there will be an engine swap thread YES THERE WILL BE

[bnorth]

Being this is such a DIY site I am really surprised at the amount of recommendations for a crate motor. I have always liked the knowledge and quality control that comes from building my own motors but it has been a number of years so maybe I'm out of touch on the cost to use a machine shop and do all your own assembly with your own sourced parts these days.

Edit: I see the Blueprint engines are rollerized with aluminum heads so yes very hard to get those two big items done and keep the cost down on a DIY rebuild!

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Wow, 5k for a new long block today. Amazing, yet cheaper than rebuild, hmm.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Wow, 5k for a new long block today. Amazing, yet cheaper than rebuild, hmm.

The reason I bought the Blue Print new block with roller cam aluminum heads carb and distributor. 3yr 50k mile warranty too

And machine shops get $150 to $200 an hour here . It cost me more to turn the rotors on my 3500 Dodge than to buy new ones last time I did the truck but I needed the truck like yesterday and the rotors were on back order during Covid

[Accelo]

Two of the three machine shops we have in town have closed. That leaves only one shop and they are busy with the bigger dollar industrial diesel motors where the money's at.
Yes, they will do a gas motor but it's back burner stuff most days.
The days of engines requiring a rebuild after 100 thousand miles are over. Most motors now last the life of the vehicle. And face it if you are doing valve jobs on one style head all day long you can finish many more than a one-off. It's the economy of scale. Can't get around it.
Cheers

[Steeveedee]

^ True. When I was flipping Chevy Vegas in the early '80s, the machine shop would charge the same price for a valve job whether I brought in one or two heads at a time.

[72SB]

Two shops I used since early 70's here in So Cal (san fernando Valley) are Valley Head Service and The Balance Shop. Valley Head will be closing soon as Larrys health is bad and The Balance Shop may be already closed but were open 4 days a week.

The were the go to machine shops. Basically the large reman shops can do it cheaper and faster

Blueprint would rival GM engine plant. Quite the operation. Ther prices appear to be a good 20% higher than a few years ago when I got my 355...like everything else.

Remember when you could buy a brand new GM crate motor at the dealership for $1800

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 72SB

Remember when you could buy a brand new GM crate motor at the dealership for $1800

I bought a Mr Goodwrench 350 from O'Reilly Chevrolet [no relation to the FLAP chain] in 1998. There are 2 Chevy dealers in Tucson and one GMC.
Matthews Chevrolet was a lot closer, but I price checked across town, and the O'Reilly guy made me a deal for $100 less, just for having a ''Fine Irish Name.'' I never thought to call the GMC dealer.

Point is: the Local Dealerships may be in a position to wheel and deal if you make the right inquiry.

[Steeveedee]

$5k would be OK, but BPE doesn't have a 402 BBC. They do have a 454 complete with carb and distributor, and, it would appear, exhaust manifolds. I'd want the carb they supply, or maybe use my old QJ until I got one calibrated for a bigger engine. But that beast is $9400. More HP and torque than I'll ever need, to boot. The longer I wait, the more it'll cost.

['68OrangeSunshine]

I have a Machinist I go to.
He did most of the stuff on my last 292 build [2002 - 2005], plus many other small deals that needed machining. Last year, I brought two used, good Trailing Arms to replace the OEM ones bent in a side impact collision of 4/22, and only need him to press in a pair of new [$20 @] Bushings. He complained to me that he was backed up a whole year on projects. And Politics, And post Covid supply chain issues.
I said its only 2 bushings. I'd whack 'em in myself, but I didn't want to FUBAR the job. He said OK.
I forgot to set a price. When they were done he asked for $100. I paid it.
In the Old Days he would have charged me $20, or even done it free.
Old days are long gone...