47-59 Radio project

[1project2many]

Many years ago, probably around 96, I started on a project to install the electronics from a late model radio into an oem '57 housing. It took me a long time to finish up and when I got done something didn't work so I put it in a box for later. It's later.

This uses a stock head unit from a '98 Suburban as the donor. All of the original functions still work. And if for some reason I wanted to put an OE CD player under the dash, I could connect it to the head unit and it would operate properly.

I realize this project isn't for most people. I did it for the challenge, and because I wanted to finish what I started. I Plan to use an original speaker grill over the mirror with two small speakers in it. There are some pretty neat under seat speakers that are self-contained that might sound good. I'm also considering building fuel tank cover speaker box, and storage tray behind the seat.

I really excited about this and I can't wait to get it installed in the truck to see what it looks like.

[autowrench]

I love the concept! Thanks for sticking with it and giving the rest of us an idea to try. Keep us in the loop please!

[fauXGT]

Are you my brother from another mother?
I live for this kind of thing. Taking something that appears old and stock but updating it and making it work.
I found a non-functioning 1950s Johnson Viking Messenger One 5 channel cb radio. Gutted most of the inside saving the vacuum tube plugs. Found a 1976 Midland 23 ch cb that I wired into the lower body. Set white LEDs with different color filters (yellow, orange...and different combos) into the center of the tube sockets. Wired the old mic with new internals. Left the ginormous and heavy transformer inside for effect. Fully functional. Turn it on and the tubes glow. It took about 2 months of winter weekends to finish.
Keep up the great work!

[fauXGT]

Oh, and you could look for a dual voice coil speaker for up above. One main woofer speaker and two tweeters. You get the stereo effect, but a deeper lower end freqs than 2 tinier full range speakers.
This is what I got for the 51 dash.

[1project2many]

Originally Posted by fauXGT

Are you my brother from another mother?
I live for this kind of thing. Taking something that appears old and stock but updating it and making it work.
I found a non-functioning 1950s Johnson Viking Messenger One 5 channel cb radio. Gutted most of the inside saving the vacuum tube plugs. Found a 1976 Midland 23 ch cb that I wired into the lower body. Set white LEDs with different color filters (yellow, orange...and different combos) into the center of the tube sockets. Wired the old mic with new internals. Left the ginormous and heavy transformer inside for effect. Fully functional. Turn it on and the tubes glow. It took about 2 months of winter weekends to finish.
Keep up the great work!

That CB is awesome!!! Thanks for posting pictures. Using LED's to simulate the glow of the old vacuum tube heaters is over the top. Very kewl!

Thanks for the speaker tip. I'll look at speaker options again. I like the idea of a dual voice coil front speaker. I'm probably going to get sucked into a rabbit hole when it comes to rear speaker choices. No worries...

If I can put something together that can play Pink Floyd's "Meddle" well enough to inspire the next generation then I've done something right.

[JDarby]

Yes, This is right in my wheel house too!

40 yrs in the electronics business, I have swagged lots of solder

I would love too find a radio for my 55.1 GMC that I could do the same concept too!!!

Please keep us posted!!

[1project2many]

Originally Posted by JDarby

Yes, This is right in my wheel house too!

40 yrs in the electronics business, I have swagged lots of solder

I would love too find a radio for my 55.1 GMC that I could do the same concept too!!!

Please keep us posted!!

I enjoy it as a hobby but it probably not as much fun if you do it every day. I have to wear reading glasses and 8X magnifiers to see what I'm working on.

OE radios can't be easy to find. There are reproduction units for big $$. Maybe it's possible to get someone to sell an empty repro case?

[1project2many]

Originally Posted by autowrench

I love the concept! Thanks for sticking with it and giving the rest of us an idea to try. Keep us in the loop please!

Thanks! I'm installing it now. the wiring under the dash is a mess so I'm cleaning it up. The original installation instructions for most accessories said to install them without fuses. We definitely need fuses.

[1project2many]

Update time. Before installing the radio I rewired the original fuse panel and some of the accessories. Much of the original wiring was direct from power source to load with no fuses. We now have fused power on both battery and ignition circuits. For anyone looking, the terminals used for much of the original wiring were known as Packard 56 series. They are now known as Aptiv 56 series. The best pricing I've found for the terminals and plastic holders is from Waytek Wiring.

I ended up raiding old wiring harnesses to get correct color and gauge wiring for the later GM radio harness. I realize GM speaker wiring isn't the best. The antenna coax and speaker wiring are all routed through the RH A pillar where clearance is limited.

I'm using this antenna:


I wanted to put it between inner and outer panels at the dome light but it just couldn't pick up any stations there. It's at the top center of the rear window. The cable is about 6mm OD which isn't too large, but the plug for the radio is too big to fit through the ceiling. So I ended up removing the plug and installing it after the coax was properly routed. This is always fun. Luckily this one uses plastic and rubber so it's fairly easy to take apart and reassemble. One tip for this work is to buy a coaxial cable stripper. It really makes this work easier.


I'm also using a signal amplifier:


The booster is located near the glovebox
and I'm using the power antenna trigger to supply power to the booster.

Routing wires through the ceiling was an exercise. Welding wire and mechanic's wire kept getting hung up. The best tools I found were actual cables. I used a bicycle shifter cable and a length of 1/8" cable to feed through the panels. It was also incredibly helpful for an assistant to pull cable while I guided it at the other end. This was especially helpful guiding wires for front and rear speakers through the A pillar.

Using original instructions for the speaker I was able to recreate a template to mark the ceiling. 2"screws are the minimum length required to attach the enclosure. The enclosure is not quite 5X8 so I'm awaiting this pair of 3.5" speakers.



I'm still working out whether or not I should cut holes in the ceiling for clearance like OE. The original instructions called for 3.5" holes for clearance. If I need to cut the ceiling these magnets are just over 3".

[leegreen]

I have the same antenna stuck vertically on inside / side of rear window, with an extension cable but no amp. It works well for FM but zero AM. My amazon no name head unit is supposed to have AM, at this point I am not sure if it is the antenna or if the AM band on the head unit is just for marketing purposes. I'd be curious if you get AM through that antenna.
(yeah AM is almost dead but still good news and traffic locally)

TF A pillars do look a lot harder to fish than AD!
Leave yourself a permanent pull string, I'm glad I did as I have added wires to overhead console twice since I thought I was done pulling wire.

[Hcb3200]

PULL STRING in Task Force Piller where the heck were you 5 years ago. that will be going in the next time I am wiring something.

[57tailgater]

Hey 1project2many I really like this thread. Anxiously awaiting to see if you have to drill the holes for speaker magnet clearance. I am wanting to do a similar thing but don't want to cut the cab if I don't have to. It looks like you used some welting/edging on the speaker box where it meets the cab. What did you use? Looks very good.

[1project2many]

I have the same antenna stuck vertically on inside / side of rear window, with an extension cable but no amp. It works well for FM but zero AM. My amazon no name head unit is supposed to have AM, at this point I am not sure if it is the antenna or if the AM band on the head unit is just for marketing purposes. I'd be curious if you get AM through that antenna.

I will check and let you know.

Leave yourself a permanent pull string,

Yes! I will definitely leave one in there. The real trick is remembering to pull the next pull string through before you pull the current one all the way out!

Hey 1project2many I really like this thread.

Thanks!

Anxiously awaiting to see if you have to drill the holes for speaker magnet clearance. I am wanting to do a similar thing but don't want to cut the cab if I don't have to.

The speakers haven't come in yet but by the numbers I'm going to have to do something to add clearance.

It looks like you used some welting/edging on the speaker box where it meets the cab. What did you use? Looks very good.

Thanks! It's generic black vinyl door edge molding. I left it in the sun to soften up. One strip is enough.

[1project2many]

Sorry for taking so long to post an update.

I tried using 1/4" plywood to mount the speakers in the speaker cover but the plywood kept coming apart. 3/8" MDF worked much better and was easier to work with, too. It took a little trial and error to align the speakers so they weren't in the way of the mounting studs and the cover screws, but it worked out fine.

After looking around for materials to make a spacer for the speaker cover, I decided to cut holes in the ceiling. Using the MDF mount as a template, I marked the ceiling then drilled the pilot holes. GM originally called for a 3 1/2" hole saw but I know the magnets would fit in a 3 1/4" hole. In order to reduce the chances of the hole saw walking or breaking the bit while cutting the uneven surface of the ceiling I used a cordless drill set to spin in reverse. I had the pilot set at 1/4" above the saw but there's actually a couple of inches of clearance above the speaker mount. Once the holes were cut I could see the mice had been hard at work moving my seat padding (and parts of a blanket left in another car) into the space above the mirror. From there it was easy to run speaker wires over from the visor access hole and to connect them to the speakers. The speaker terminals needed to be bent slightly to prevent contact with the ceiling but everything went smoothly. Sound is ok. Certainly it's better than the old speaker. Turning up the base can make the old cab vibrate pretty quickly.

At some point I may install rear speakers. I really like the idea of a storage space above the fuel tank and I think I could add speakers as well. I'll be looking at vehicles for inspiration.

[57tailgater]

Nice job. The MDF template was a good idea. Guess your discovery of the mouse evidence can explain why some of these trucks are rusted out along the top of the windshield. What does your speaker mounting look like inside the speaker box? Thanks for posting this and keep us updated!

[1project2many]

What does your speaker mounting look like inside the speaker box?

You know, I really thought I took pictures of this but I can't seem to find any.

Inside the speaker box are four studs that the original speaker would drop over to be secured with nuts. In order to account for the thickness of the MDF and correctly space the speakers away from the grille I altered the mount by screwing flanged nuts 1/2 onto the studs, then I threaded 5/8" studs into the nuts. This spaced the MDF properly plus allowed "extended" mounting studs. I used red loctite on the threads and with luck everything will stay put.

I'll see if I can find time to take it down and get pictures this weekend.