Solid spacer pinion sleeve gurus come in

[72tutone]

I'm in the process of swapping my rear end gears. Which I will be sellling here on the site once they are out. They are Yukon posi w/3.42 gears less than 500 miles. Way to short for a 4l80e. But, would be great for a 60e, 700r4 etc. I digress.

My question is I'm installing a solid pinion sleeve instead of the crush sleeve. I've heard a half a dozen different torque specs. I've heard it doesn't matter what the torque is, as long as the preload is correct in inch lbs. Ive heard 125 ft lbs, 140, 150, all the way up to 200ft lbs.

What I'm finding is say I get the preload to where it needs to be, 13-15 per Yukon on new bearings, once I start torquing down the nut, the preload shoots sky high. But I'm able to get to a point where the slack is taken up, there is drag on the bearings, and the preload is correct. This is all before I put a torque wrench on it. Once I do, and use the beam style in lb torque wrench, its well over 25-30 in lbs.

Does the torque on the nut matter with preload? Should I torque the nut, and then check the preload?

Super confused. Thanks in advance!

[wwboater]

I just went through this last week, so my rear end only has 100 miles on it since doing.

I ended up getting the preload correct using the old nut and my impact gun. Once the preload was good I used a new nut and red loctite and torqued it to 150 foot pounds using my torque wrench. Then I rechecked the preload to make sure it was still good.

I think that if the spacer is set up correctly the preload will not shoot up drastically once you torque it, you may need less spacers.

Good luck and hopefully more folks will chime in.

[A1971Blazer]

If your preload changes when you torque the nut down, the solid spacer is a few thousandths too short.
With a solid spacer, the preload should not change no matter how much you torque the nut.
I usually shoot for 135-150 ft/lbs on the nut.

[72tutone]

Thanks. So, upon snugging it down, check with an inch lb wrench to make sure preload is in spec, then torque it down, and preload shouldnt change?
My preload seems to get tighter and it blows my specs way out. I only need 13-15inch lbs according to Yukon for a 12bolt on new bearings.

So @a1971blazer, when you say solid spacer is a few thou short, I need to add additional shims then?

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by 72tutone

Thanks. So, upon snugging it down, check with an inch lb wrench to make sure preload is in spec, then torque it down, and preload shouldnt change?
My preload seems to get tighter and it blows my specs way out. I only need 13-15inch lbs according to Yukon for a 12bolt on new bearings.

So @a1971blazer, when you say solid spacer is a few thou short, I need to add additional shims then?

yes, that's the whole idea behind using a solid spacer, get the preload correct and torque the nut to spec.
sometimes I will use a crush sleeve and an old nut, get the preload correct without the seal in place,
then remove it and duplicate the measurement of the crush sleeve on a solid sleeve.
I have an advantage because I have a machine shop. So I just make all mine to fit, even the spacers for setting the backlash on the ring gear.

[72tutone]

Yep, I get it. Ive read on other sites that the preload will change when torquing down the nut as metal is malleable. Hence the reason at 140ft torque and 160ft torque changes my preload.

But I agree its solid and shouldnt change that much. It just seems when I have alot of shims added and when I hit it with an impact and the nut doesnt move anymore, there is a lot of rotation and no drag, which makes me think that its too loose. Then I tear it all down and repeat.

But, I will keep plugging away at it.

Also, Ive read to stake the nut as well as red locktite. But, there isnt really a space to knurl the metal over into a pocket like other rearends nuts

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by 72tutone

Yep, I get it. Ive read on other sites that the preload will change when torquing down the nut as metal is malleable. Hence the reason at 140ft torque and 160ft torque changes my preload.

But I agree its solid and shouldnt change that much. It just seems when I have alot of shims added and when I hit it with an impact and the nut doesnt move anymore, there is a lot of rotation and no drag, which makes me think that its too loose. Then I tear it all down and repeat.

But, I will keep plugging away at it.

Also, Ive read to stake the nut as well as red locktite. But, there isnt really a space to knurl the metal over into a pocket like other rearends nuts

don't feel as if you're not gaining on it. I've done some that I had in and out a dozen or more times to get it right.

[Accelo]

I have found it easier to add too much shim\so the pinion is loose.

Add additional shims.
Measure the axial play, say its .005.
Then remove the .005 and .003 more for a total of -.008. (.003 preload)
Then check your rotation torque. It should be close to or slightly less than the specification.
At least you will know where .0 is.
It will keep you from damaging the bearing by false brinelling, the bearing, during the installation
Continue adding or removing shims till the preload is correct.

This is the shim for the solid spacer, not the set-up shim behind the pinion gear.
.

[Willie Makeit]

If the pinion bearing is not fully "seated" it will cause erratic readings as well when torqueing.