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Old 01-14-2004, 08:34 PM   #1
gotmud
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Unhappy Wiring Problem....ignition

In thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ight=pertronix
I got info on how to wire the ignition. Now that its wiried it seems that it will not send fire to the plugs until after I release the key from start to run. Did I hook the hot wire up wrong?
I attached it to the fuse box where the radio is.
Glenn
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Old 01-14-2004, 08:59 PM   #2
JIMs70GMC
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I bet the red wire is hooked up to hot in run only not hot in run and start. I believe the radio terminal is hot in run and not start.
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1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 01-14-2004, 09:04 PM   #3
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Any ideer which terminal is hot for start and run?
Glenn
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Old 01-14-2004, 09:19 PM   #4
JIMs70GMC
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Don't remember but what you could do is disconnect the coil wire and with a multimeter in hand put the key in run and start and find which terminal is hot. You don't want a terminal that is hot in off or ass. as this will burn up the pertronix unit.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs
1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 01-14-2004, 10:52 PM   #5
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sounds like you have the wires on the coil swapped. i had this same problem, but it's been so long, i can't remember the exact fix
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Old 01-14-2004, 11:15 PM   #6
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UGH....this is gonna be frustrating. I cant afford to burn them up. If they go the points will have to go back on. UGH...
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Old 01-15-2004, 01:29 AM   #7
Longhorn Man
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IGN UNFUSED is a hot while cranking terminal on your fuse box.
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Old 01-15-2004, 02:57 AM   #8
ILIVE4TRUCKS
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Purple wire is start and I think yellow is run on the starter
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Old 01-15-2004, 03:29 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by ILIVE4TRUCKS
Purple wire is start and I think yellow is run on the starter
yes thats right, as for the fuseblock terminal, I wouldnt use it directly, not enough juice, but I would use it to activate a relay, so then you are sure you are getting pure voltage to you ignition system
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Old 01-15-2004, 10:10 AM   #10
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I'd have to look to be sure but I think I used the pink wire on the back of the ignition switch for 12V for my HEI.
If I remember correctly, on the back of the ignition Red is 12V from the battery, pink is 12V with key on or start, purple is 12V when cranking.
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Old 01-15-2004, 07:33 PM   #11
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That pink wire is where I normally splice in for my HEI, but I always...ALWAYS get flamed when I say this.
The fuse box will be plenty fine onless you are spinning 4500 RPM all the time, and it IS 13 to 13.5 volts there, just not as many amps.
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Old 01-16-2004, 12:07 AM   #12
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I had the EXACT same problem!! Look at this post:
Here
Read the whole thing if you like, or read the second page at what I found to be the solution. I had the pink and brown wire backwards (even though it was hooked up according to wiring diagram.Trust Me, read this post. Hope this helps!!!!
Shawn
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