A/C cool but not cold?

[kna4977]

Factory A/C system converted to r134a didn't really cool at all when I got the vehicle.

I noticed some leakage/oil around one of the accumulator hoses. I opened up the system and found an extra O-ring in that orifice that likely wasn't removed from some time before.

I replaced all O-rings for all the hoses I disconnected. I tested the POA valve and found that it was setup for R12 pressures around 30 so I recalibrated it for R134a around 26 or 27 IIRC.

Sealed everything back up and vacuumed it down for an hour or so and let it sit. Was going to just do it overnight, but it turned into a couple of days. System held vacuum with no apparent leaks as the gauge readings didn't change.

I charged the system. Has nearly but not quite 3 - 12oz cans of r134a in it.

The air from the vents is cold when the system is first turned on, but as it continues to run, it gets less cold and the pressure on the high side seems to continue to climb it's was in the lower 200s last time I tested it, but it made me uncomfortable so I shut it down.

I can also see what looks like some liquid flowing through the sight glass on the accumulator.

I'm not sure if it's just still low on refrigerant or if there is some sort of issue like a blockage or contamination or ?

Thoughts/ideas/suggestions? I'm usually good at troubleshooting and solving A/C issues, but this one I'm not sure about.

[leddzepp]

The heater core sits right next to the evaporator core. Is coolant flow to it been shut off?

[Bob B.]

Quick check- after you have run the A/C for a while and it starts to get warm, feel the pipes into and out of the evaporator. They should both be cold, close to the same temp.. If the outlet pipes are close to the same temp., you probably have a problem with hot water flow through the heater core or the temp. damper is not closing all the way. Otherwise, you might need more air flow through the condensor if the system is fully charged. Do you have a fan shroud?

[kna4977]

I do have a fan shroud, 7 blade fan, fan clutch etc., so any issues that existed there should be resolved and appear to be. I'll check these things.

I vacuum tested all of the diaphragms and they all hold vacuum and function like they should? Water valve holds vacuum too.

Is there another simple test for the water valve maybe hose to it warm and hose out of it to heater core cool if a/c on? I will say the valve looks brand new.

Vacuum reservoir how do you know if one is bad? I hooked the vacuum pump to the input from the intake and it will take on vacuum but makes a sound and I would imagine since the ac controls are set to max cool the vacuum is bled off from those diaphragms? If I vacuum through the output of it, holds vacuum no problem.

[Richard]

Charge should be about right but may need to be adjusted, 2.8lbs is 15% under r12 charge. Main question I will ask is how does it cool at speed on highway, does it cool better? IMHO the factory condenser and mounting does not offer enough heat rejection for a 134a conversion. I have a background in hvac and a couple of conversions under my belt.

[kna4977]

Originally Posted by Richard

Charge should be about right but may need to be adjusted, 2.8lbs is 15% under r12 charge. Main question I will ask is how does it cool at speed on highway, does it cool better? IMHO the factory condenser and mounting does not offer enough heat rejection for a 134a conversion. I have a background in hvac and a couple of conversions under my belt.

I haven't really driven it on the highway. I'm basing how it's cooling off of a couple of other vehicles that I've converted or rebuilt which are ice cold and driven in the same manner around the neighborhood.

It has slightly under 3 - 12 oz cans in it, probably around 32 or so ounces which which would not be a full charge at only 2 lbs, but I stopped adding refrigerant because the high side pressures kept climbing and were concerning to me.

I also don't think I should see cloudy liquid flowing through the sight glass.