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01-21-2004, 10:42 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: West Des Moines, Ia
Posts: 3,233
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frame?s
i just emailed another member about getting a cab and frame, and i am making a checklist of what i need to take off of the frame in order to go and get it sandblasted and painted, i have decided i am going to take off the whole crossmember off and clean it and paint it myself, but the rest of the frame is what i need help with, this is what i have so far
remove all fuel and brake lines and wiring harnesses remove the rear end and the leaf springs let me know if i am missing anything oh and i forgot remove the steering gear box and motor mounts, should i also remove the transmission cross member another quistion, approxomatly how much does a bare frame weight, after i get the fram back from the sandblaster i have exactly 2 months to be rid of the other frame and have most of the other one sitting on the chassis not driving but as one piece, guys i am going to be asking alot of ?s over the next couple of months so brace yourself, and any and all help from other local board members would be highly appreciated especially when taking cabs and stuff off, come on guys give me any and all pointers you have on the project that i am about to undertake, thanks for your help that you have already provided
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Krazy Texan My Trucks are made with Wrenches not Chop Sticks 1967 GMC 3/4 ton "Johnny Cash" 1990 v1500 suburban 1967 Ford f100 Swb 4x4 "green bean" GOD BLESS JESUS, JOHN WAYNE, AND THE ALAMO |
01-22-2004, 12:46 AM | #2 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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Two months? That shouldn't be a problem.
Unbolt everything, including the tranny crossmember. Make sure and degrease the frame before taking it to be blasted. If you ask the blaster to blast it clean and it's all oily and caked with sludge, he's going to charge way more. Use putty knife, wire brushes, Gunk engine Brite and Easy Off oven cleaner to get most of the heavy stuff off first. Then blast, clean, and paint.
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I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
01-22-2004, 01:14 AM | #3 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,690
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I would use POR 15 chassis black before I would paint. I would use it over powder coating too honestly.
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01-22-2004, 01:17 AM | #4 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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Absolutely on POR 15. Everything on my truck is pretty much POR'd
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I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
01-22-2004, 01:33 AM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: West Des Moines, Ia
Posts: 3,233
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how much would por15 cost me, i am on a budget as is most everyone on this board. so you are saying spray on the por15 and then paint it.
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Krazy Texan My Trucks are made with Wrenches not Chop Sticks 1967 GMC 3/4 ton "Johnny Cash" 1990 v1500 suburban 1967 Ford f100 Swb 4x4 "green bean" GOD BLESS JESUS, JOHN WAYNE, AND THE ALAMO |
01-22-2004, 01:37 AM | #6 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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Figure on 60 bucks for the POR 15 to do the frame and stuff. You brush it on. Once you use it, you'll rob a 7-11 if you have to to get money for more. It's that good. No need to paint over it for a frame. As long as it's not exposed to direct sunlight, you don't have to paint over it.
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I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
01-22-2004, 01:42 AM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: West Des Moines, Ia
Posts: 3,233
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so i am guessing that this is the stuff i should get and i just brush it on myself.
http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=209
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Krazy Texan My Trucks are made with Wrenches not Chop Sticks 1967 GMC 3/4 ton "Johnny Cash" 1990 v1500 suburban 1967 Ford f100 Swb 4x4 "green bean" GOD BLESS JESUS, JOHN WAYNE, AND THE ALAMO |
01-22-2004, 02:10 AM | #8 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,690
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Yup, that's the stuff. It is UV safe too.
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