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01-30-2004, 11:50 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 104
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only 12 in hg
Today, when I got home from work, I tried to tune the truck. I used a vacuum guage, timing light, and external tack. No matter how hard I tried, I could not get the vacuum below 12 in hg unless I went way advance. I finally settled on 6 or 8 BTC and test drove it to find that it knocked under full throttle. Could all this be happening as a result of having put a 4 barrell carb on a motor that had a one barrell on it with out changing the cam also? Any input would be appreciated.
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01-31-2004, 12:09 AM | #2 |
Young Gun wth Fast Inline
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Idaho
Posts: 1,475
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The more vacum at idle the better. I assume that this must be an inline if it had a monojet on it before. Back the timeing off if its knocking under full load. Your vacumm goes to zero when your at full throttle. That is if you have enough carburation
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01-31-2004, 12:11 AM | #3 |
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Location: ** THE FALL GUY **CHICAGO IL
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well on a regular engine you need vacuum for power brakes....
18 in. is what you would want..... the more cam the less vacuum...... SOUNDS like your still advanced to far if it's got a knock..... not sure about your cam question....but i would think not.... sure you did not have a 2 barr. carb and went to a 4barr. |
01-31-2004, 12:30 AM | #4 |
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The carb it had was described as a 1 barrel 3 venturi carb. And yes vacuum goes to 0 under full throttle. What do you guys have the timing set at with the quadrajets. I know there will be differences with engines but I would like to get a ballpark. To see if I am even close. This is a 350, truck originally had a 307. 69 c-10
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01-31-2004, 12:33 AM | #5 |
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how about a little info
engine size trans year |
01-31-2004, 12:41 AM | #6 |
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It is 69 C-10 originally had the 307 V-8, three on the tree. Everything is still the same except the engine was changed out with a 350 when the 307 needed rebuild. Then, one day I was changing gaskets on the carb and broke a bolt off in the manifold good. So I decided since I had to change out the manifold to switch to a Quadrajet.
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01-31-2004, 03:16 AM | #7 |
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Location: Redding,CA...USA
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OK..are you sure you are on full manifold vacuum? not ported? Set the timing to 8º BTDC with the vacuum advance disconnected and the line plugged. Hook up the vacuum gauge to full manifold vacuum...it will have constant steady vacuum at idle...turn in the idle enrichment screw a 1/4 turn...does the vacuum go up or down? If it goes up..turn another 1/4 turn..if it goes down..turn the screw out 1/2 turn...continue this until you get max vacuum...test drive with out the vacuum advance hooked up..if no knocking..hook up the vacuum advance to ported vacuum(the higher of the two vacuum ports)
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01-31-2004, 03:24 PM | #8 |
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Thanks for the help. I will let you know how it goes.
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01-31-2004, 03:28 PM | #9 |
Formerly yellow72custom
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 7,531
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Bigjim is right, simply hooking the vaccum advance cannister up to a full manifold vaccum port will dramatically increase the idle vaccum. I did this when working on a friend's truck, it had about 9" at idle, and simply switching the advance canister hose to a full manifold port brought it up to 20". With no changes in idle mixture or timing.
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02-01-2004, 12:29 AM | #10 |
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
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If you have any pictures of where you hooked the vacuum up to that would be real helpful. I am not sure I hooked everything up correctly when I installed this carb.
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02-01-2004, 02:14 AM | #11 |
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I never use a timing light, vac gadge, etc. I have a friend step on the gas and the brake at the same time, while I turn the distributor until it pings and or runs crappy, then I turn it back just a hair and your as good as you can get. A tired motor with a stretched timing chain will never be set to factory specs, so go by the ear method, and your set. I once had a motor so bad, that I had to take the distributor out and turn it one tooth, just to get it to run right.
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