|
02-21-2004, 07:53 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Bellevue, WA
Posts: 1,480
|
Sandblasting 12 Bolt
Hey,
I'm taking my 12 bolt rear end on monday to get it sandblasted. What should I do to keep sand from getting inside? I've heard of stuffing greasy rags in around the yoke, or taping it up good. Anything else I need to seal up? Thanks!
__________________
Brian Pal 1971 Cheyenne 10 454/th400-Undergoing a full frame off resto. 1972 Chevy short/step 2wd, 350/th350 1983 M1009 CUCV Military K5 Blazer 1981 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 dually flatbed |
02-21-2004, 07:58 PM | #2 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: ** THE FALL GUY **CHICAGO IL
Posts: 5,883
|
SO YOUR NOT PULLING THE AXELS AND YOKE?????
if not good luck..... can't see doing any sand blasting with out the seals going south.. if you got it out in front of you....pull every thing and replace all seals..... WHY DO THIS TWICE |
02-21-2004, 08:18 PM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
|
the smart thing is to strip that housing naked and blast away
__________________
71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
02-21-2004, 08:50 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Delta,Pa
Posts: 14,950
|
exactly strip the houseing clean then blast it and wash it real good to get all the sand out. sand will play hell with your bearings
__________________
Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member. |
02-21-2004, 09:29 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Bellevue, WA
Posts: 1,480
|
well the vibe i'm getting is that I should pull everything out, blast the housing, then put everythign back together with new seals etc.
Your right, I'd rather not do this twice, I was just under the impression that I could safely blast the entire assembly at once. Here's the Q. What is involved in breaking everything down? is this something that can be done easily in an afternoon/day? When putting it back together do you have to set up the gears etc. again? As you guys can see, the other kind of rear ends are my specialty
__________________
Brian Pal 1971 Cheyenne 10 454/th400-Undergoing a full frame off resto. 1972 Chevy short/step 2wd, 350/th350 1983 M1009 CUCV Military K5 Blazer 1981 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 dually flatbed |
02-21-2004, 10:09 PM | #6 |
Keep On Truckin'
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Buda, Texas
Posts: 1,354
|
You can blast the rear as a whole unit. Any sand blaster worth a crap can and will protect the front pinion seal area and end axle tube areas with no problem. I pulled axles, seals and bearings (I was planning on replacing bearings, races and seals) and made plastic plugs for axle tubes which hammered in place. I left the ring and pinion with yoke and cover in place.
__________________
Just Passin' Thru Some projects are like herding cats; others are like putting out fires; this one was like herding cats on fire..... |
02-21-2004, 11:09 PM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Gulfport Ms
Posts: 401
|
I have done them both ways. From experience, it is hard to
get all of the sand and residue cleaned out. I prefer having everything in place. I will take string and tightly wind it around the seal and yoke ends until it is built up enough to cover the areas. I then try to blast away from the areas as much as possible. When finished I either unwind or cut away the string with a sharp knife. I am much more confident doing it this way. EdB |
Bookmarks |
|
|