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#1 |
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Dyersburg, TN
Posts: 471
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I broke something!
GROUND!!!! on my very own 20x30 backyard shop. I can't wait to get it finished. trying to get some dirt hauled in and a little dirtwork done for a concrete drive or at least a pad in front of where my door's gonna be, but its rained all week. poured the slab a week ago.
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 513
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looks good, how thick is that slab?
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Ben 1983 Silverado SWB 305 2002 Silverado Extended Cab 5.3 http://members.shaw.ca/bkennett |
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#3 |
Regular guy
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Round Rock TX
Posts: 518
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I see you're already parking things in the new shop.
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#4 |
5 day ban, learn to behave.
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: san diego, ca
Posts: 683
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NICE. Im so jealous. Are you going to frame walls or ??? What are the plans for the finished product
mike |
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#5 |
You get what you pay for
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Cherryville, NC
Posts: 4,798
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Lookin good. A man and his shop, it's a beautiful thing.
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Mike 1985 Chevy C-10 |
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#6 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,686
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You doing to use metal framing on that ?>
Depinding on lumber prices it may be as much or cheaper than wood framed. Not to mention alot sturdier |
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#7 | |
DAMN, I love Big Blocks!
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Mexico, USA
Posts: 619
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Quote:
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Marc Bona Hobbs, New Mexico 1976 1/2 ton GMC High Sierra. 454 c.i.d./ TH400. *Soon to get a mild warming over.* 3.40 rear. ![]() |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Walker, LA
Posts: 2,925
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Lucky dog. Looks good.
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Gary -1986 SWB: lowered 4/6, SOLD!!! -Best 1/4 mile: 14.51 @ 91.01 MPH -2001 Pewter Tahoe, billet grill, Corsa Sport Cat-back, K&N FIPK SOLD!!! -2004 Z-71 Extended cab with a flowmaster, BDS 6.5", 3" BL, 35x12.5x18 Trail Grapplers on Pro-Comp 18x9 wheels |
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#9 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,686
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Dang 75%? That sucks We havent had much of a flucuation here but im sure it will i know scrap iron has been going up.
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#10 |
5 day ban, learn to behave.
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: san diego, ca
Posts: 683
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Materials might be a little cheaper but I think if you look at the big picture, wood framing will ultimately be cheaper. Being a carpenter, I wouldnt touch metal framing with a 10 foot pole. But I would come out and have that whole garage built in a weekend with one person's help, if it were all wood. How much is someone who is experienced in steel framing going to cost? How long is it going to take him and what kind of specialty tools is he going to need? You like screwing self-tapping sheet metal screws to attach plywood/shear panel/siding etc? Ugh. Not me. The first time I sliced my hand open on a sharp edge would put me OVER the edge
![]() That is not to say that if I was building a multi (in the dozens or hundreds) unit housing tract or something, that I wouldnt consider metal framing as a cheaper alternative. I think for something this small, you're better off with wood. Thats just my opinion though. I also assume that this isnt an engineered structure? What kind of roof are you going to put on it? Trusses or are you going to cut a conventional roof? Either way I dont think you can do it with steel. So you're looking at JUST doing the walls in steel studs. I wouldnt do it. 2x4 or 2x6 walls with 2x6 ceiling joist & rafters would be perfect. Keep us posted mike |
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#11 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,686
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Metal framing is alot quicker IMO
For garage im not talkin about using sheetmetal studs like in schools set 16" apart im talkin about sheet metal perlins depending on wall hieght one at the bottom one at the top and one in the middle running longways Only way to go for a full steel building. Only really special tools we use are a chop saw wich a skill saw with a carbide blade would work . We weld the perlins in alot of people use screws for the ease of not having to weld stuff but its all about the same . Looks like its going to be a nice shop good luck on wich ever framing method you choose and post some more pics.!@ |
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#12 | |
DAMN, I love Big Blocks!
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Mexico, USA
Posts: 619
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Quote:
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Marc Bona Hobbs, New Mexico 1976 1/2 ton GMC High Sierra. 454 c.i.d./ TH400. *Soon to get a mild warming over.* 3.40 rear. ![]() |
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Dyersburg, TN
Posts: 327
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looks outta square to me
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#14 |
You get what you pay for
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Cherryville, NC
Posts: 4,798
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I have worked with both. I am a Carpenter too. My last job, started off building houses, big homes. He ended up getting into commercial stuff, doctor offices, medical building, etc. I hated every minute of it. Concrete and steel. Yuck.
Steel studs were what we did. They have different grades for structural and non structural framing. My shop is wood, but I think if I ever was to build another one, it may just be steel studs. As stated, no termites to worry about, no rot, warping, crooked studs, etc. With the proper screw gun, it's not slow to put them up either. But, I know where Mike is coming from. He sounds like me. I would much rather use a nail gun in wood than to mess with damn screws. |
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#15 |
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Dyersburg, TN
Posts: 471
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it has a turn down around the edge and was formed with 2x10's. since I also work in construction I thought long and hard about what type of building to put up, wood or metal and whatever. for starters since i do carpentry and construction i like to do other things when I get home, Kinda like the mechanic, he works on cars all day long and thats the last thing he wants to do when he gets home. since I have the money I am paying someone else to do it(part of it anyway) even though I might save money by putting it up myself. Cost was a consideration, along with upkeep, looks and whatever. I am having one those portable carport type buildings put up with 9' to the first bend, 2x3 tubing every 4' and metal to the ground on both sides. I am going to frame the ends up myself and put vinyl siding on those. It will be easy to keep up, no shingles to worry about. I will have plenty of ceiling heigth in the ridge with out having ceiling joists to worry about I will insulate it foam insulation. No matter what anybody says this will be a very strong building, short of a direct hit from a tornado, should be relatively easy to heat and cool, and will suit my needs just fine and be a nice looking building. My dad has one like this and i like it so Thats what I'm going with. I got about $1,350 in the slab and all said and done I'll have less than 4500 bucks in it, ready for electrical and plumbing. I'll post some more pics as the progress continues, they're supposed to start on it the week of the 15th.
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#16 |
LED King
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,087
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My grandpa's shop that he just built is about 1700 square feet. Just slightly smaller than the house (If it was bigger than the house it would be deemed a commercial building and would have had 8X the taxes not to mention other problems. He did it entirely from metal. Turned out well. He finished it in 3 weekend - playing golf each morning. He of course had help, but he put the outer skin on it in a couple hours by himself. One thing I have learned, roll up doors aren't cheap! He had 3 of them!
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Tyler 1985 C10 305 w/ Bowtie OD TH700R4 3.42 LSD 202,000 miles 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 5-speed Stick 2016 Chevy Spark EV Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 Gone: 2008 VW R32 |
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