Door mod and rubber body mount ?s

[super_kev]

I'm looking at getting some new doors for my '70 CST blazer, and the doors I have in it now have the little screws below the vent window. I read that these are supposed to hold to door together so it doesn't split? Would it be worth it to do it to the new repo doors? Does anyone have any pictures or tell me how to weld a little bracket in there?

Also, my body mounts are shot. I'd like to get some new rubber ones. I know they won't last as long as polyurithane, but I think it would be easier on the blazer body. So has anyone used rubber body mounts? I see that GMC Pauls and Early Classic Enterprises has them. What is involved with replacing body mounts?

Thanks.

[Yukon Jack]

I am just getting done putting new rubber body mounts on my K5. I, like you, think the rubber is the better way to go on a Blazer. I went with the poly on my K20, but not on the K5.

I went ahead and pulled my radiator as that makes it easier to get to the radiator support bolts. I have read you can get to them if you just move the radiator around.

Get a 3 or 4 foot 2x6 to spread the load when you lift the body with a floor jack. I did one side at a time but left the bolts all loose.

The 2nd set of bolts, the ones under your feet, were not to much of a problem. One of the metal sleeves was fused to one of the bolts. I beat on it and tried to drill it out for a while, okay, like 1 1/2 hours and finally got smart - took my air hammer and a v-shaped cutting bit and chiseled the sleeve right off. Don't know why I didn't think of that earlier.

All the rest of the bolts behind the front seats are spot welded to the floor. I found it easiest to just grind them off completely and drop them through the floor.

Really not a tough job, but of course you always run into little snags.

I found my passenger side rear portion of the frame had been pulled in when the existing trailer hitch had caused the crossmember it was attached to to bend. I had to cut the rivets and unbolt the crossmember, then spread the frame back to where it should have been. After doing that, those bolts lined up properly.

I should be finishing up my body mounts tonight, definitely needed to be done, some were nonexistent, others where barely there.

Don't have any info on the first part of your question.

[Dean]

I've done the poly and the rubber mounts on my K20s. I have to say I like the rubber ones a little better for less vibration, ride better and more flex. I put the polys and the skyjacker nitro shocks on my blue one and it rides like a stagecoach compared to my latest one with rubber and hydro shocks....lol

Are those 72 doors in your Blazer currently? I'm not a Blazer expert, but I'm assuming that 72 got the extra screw on the inside of the door like the trucks. I'll have to look at my 72 Jimmy.

[super_kev]

Thanks for the replys. Yes, the doors are '72s I'm guessing.

[Yukon Jack]

My 70 K5 has those screws on the inside of the doors.

[blazer1971]

The doors with the little screws are 72 .

[super_kev]

Good, that's what I thought.

Now, anyone know WHY they had screws, or what this whole door mod thing I've heard about is for?

[jewels.]

i'm no expert on 1972's (i own a '68).....

but i believe that the screw below the wing vent window is there to hold the outer door skin closer to the inner door panel..... there is a bracket on the inside of the door that is welded to the outer skin, and the inner door panel that holds the two pieces together (this piece is right below the junction of the wing vent window and the large window).... over time, the bracket would separate from either the outer door skin or the inner door panel.... the separation would cause the rubber seals at the window to not seal as cleanly along the outer surface of the window because the door would warp outward.....thus rainwater would run down inside the doors.... this advances the rusting of the bottom of the doors, esp if the drain holes in the doors became plugged with debris....

so, chevy/GMC introduced the screw to hold the inner and outer portions of the door together more firmly....

can someone correct me here if i am wrong? ---- thanks!

jewels.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Also all blazer door from what I have seen have had the little screw... Must be a blazer thing..

[blazer1971]

These screws were not limited to blazers. My 72 3/4 4x4 pickup also had the screws and I have seen others on trks. Jewels; you are correct with regards to the weather stripping but also that area is a noted weak area. With the pressure applied to the wing window the outer door skin would flex. If you look around at other earlier trks you will note that on some the outer door skin actually cracked in that area.

[super_kev]

Can I weld some braces in to the doors, or does it have to be done at the factory (when the door skins are apart)?

[bouncytruck]

My '69 does not have the little screw and the welded piece inside the drivers door has separated. I can pul the inside of the door away from the vent frame (slightly) and the door is much looser than the passenger. I have heard of guys fixing the weld on the inside, although it sounds like a lot of work. There isn't much room in there. I'd assume you would have to take the whole door appart (remove vent, glass, regulator, etc.)