Body Mount Bushings

[72BLAZERDUDE]

What is the easiest way to do these. Loosen one side and then jack the body up and install that side or do I have to loosen up all of the mounts at one time. Remember this is on my 2wd Blazer.

[redz 1970 K5]

Note- top should be on, doors should be shut, and you shouldn't attempt without your rocker boxes on and in good order, or that body is goona flex. You want the body as rigid as possible.

You pretty much have it. You loosen one side to the end of the threads on the bolt, and completely take the other side off. Jack up the side you removed the bolts on and just work your way down the side, jacking up just high enough to get out with the old and in with the new. If you feel ANY resistance while jacking, investigate the resistance- it should go up pretty easy. If you hit resistance, you might be straining brake lines or a grounding strap. I jack one pump, do an inspection, jack another pump, inspect and so on. Make sure the body alignment shims go right back where they came from. Put the new mounts in, the hardware, and just finger tighten for now. Repeat on the other side. Then, start torquing the hardware to spec.

May make it easier to take the front bumper off, or at least loosen it, so the front part of the grille surround doesn't bend against it. You are going to have to move the radiator to get to the front mounts.

Now, I just did a 3" body lift and mounts at the same time, so I really had to get the body off of the frame and loosen the brake line mounts to the frame, and remove the steering shaft from the steering box.

[Gee_Emm]

First thing you do before any of that is put the parking brake on. It is very likely that you will knock the truck out of gear while jacking the body.

[JimKshortstep4x4]

There is a good chance that the two large bolts in line with the kick panels are welded to the floor. I would suggest pulling the carpet back to check to see if the bolt heads are welded to the floor before jacking that part of the body up as the body will have to go pretty high to clear or you will want to grind the weld off of the bolts so they can be removed.

If they are not welded you will want to pull them out anyway.

Jim

[purple gas]

just a tip from a Canadian boy. If your gonna enter your truck in any serious car shows, don't "cheap out" and use hockey pucks with holes drilled in them for body mount bushings. People will point & laugh!

[68w/sbc406]

Originally Posted by purple gas

just a tip from a Canadian boy. If your gonna enter your truck in any serious car shows, don't "cheap out" and use hockey pucks with holes drilled in them for body mount bushings. People will point & laugh!

have you 'been there done that'?

[purple gas]

No, It wasn't me. I may be cheap, but there's a limit.

[4x4Poet]

I will be changing my K10's body mounts out next week. The engine & driveline are out anyway. And I get to use a lift. Jealous?

[LUV2XCLR8]

Not Trying To Hijack, But If Ya Need To Shim Your Kit A Lil,
Like On A Blazer For Door Issues And Such, Whatdaya Use

*Old Body Bushing Kit Is Long Gone, New Was Installed By PO

[redz 1970 K5]

Originally Posted by LUV2XCLR8

Not Trying To Hijack, But If Ya Need To Shim Your Kit A Lil,
Like On A Blazer For Door Issues And Such, Whatdaya Use

*Old Body Bushing Kit Is Long Gone, New Was Installed By PO

I am SURE that if you put a parts request out on the parts board, one of the parts guys could wrangle you up some GM shims- not a lot of people need them, and with all of the parting Bisquik and Teeitup do for example, I am sure it wouldn't be too hard.

On another note, pretty sure I saw some shims in the LMC catalogs.

[4x4Poet]

Yup, LMC CB39, p. 30-32.