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08-03-2002, 01:42 AM | #1 |
Four Wheeler
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Decatur, IL
Posts: 101
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Help! VERY annoying squeak/squeal....
I know, it's a '72 and it's going to have "character" - but this is already getting on my nerves. Here's the scenario. It's a squeaking or squeeling sound that slowly increases in frequency as the vehicle speed increases. But only in a forward gear. In reverse it does not make the noise. It does not make the noise while in neutral, at any speed or RPM. In gear, when I let off of the break, it slowly goes... squeek.........squeek...... squeek... and as I gain speed, so does it - and it gets higher pitched. Squeek.. squeek squeek squeek. ANY IDEAS? (I know, i'm terrible at explaining these things. I might just make a digital video and upload it someplace!)
Overview.... -Squeeks only in a forward gear. -Increases in frequency with speed. -Does not squeek while in neutral at any speed. -Does not squeek at all in reverse. -While cruising at 30, it squeeks at a predictable rate. But if I give it gas to raise RPM, the squeek also increases.... Does this description sound at all familiar to anyone? At all? The "squeek" is similar to a rustry spring that's being compressed rapidly. Only higher in pitch. HELP!?!? It's driving me insane!!
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'84 K20 4x4 350 V8 - Weiand intake - Headers - 4" Tuff Country lift - 35x12.50 ProComp M/Ts on 15x10s |
08-03-2002, 02:16 AM | #2 |
Recovering Truck Driver
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Orleans, NE USA
Posts: 1,883
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I've got the same problem in my truck every since the truck pull last weekend......nasty bad annoying and it sounds like maybe it's comming from the right rear wheel......i too need info on this problem, i was thinking maybe i smashed a wheel bearing or something, but it sets up little if any vibration.
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67 K-20 350, SM465, Eaton rear, 4.56 no spin option 00 Dodge 2500 4x4, 24V cummins, 5 speed Chad South Central Nebraska |
08-03-2002, 06:30 AM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: central pa
Posts: 1,525
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First thing I would do is rotate your tires and see if the noise changes. If a tire is out of balance it will cause the truck to vibrate and rubber weather strip or hood rubber will squeak. If that doesn't point to something jack both back tires off the ground using a good set of jack stands put it in gear and see if the noise is in the rear or trans mounts.
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72 longhorn c30 502BB/th400/fact air/4.11rear/ custom camper 72 bug(the better half's) under reconstruction 2009 HHR aqua blue 71 GMC k20 350/sm465 2009 Chevy hd3500 6.6 Victory Red crew cab dually Dave & Jeanne |
08-03-2002, 07:24 AM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Shelbyville, KY
Posts: 3,261
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Strange~~ Would first jack up & Block both sides of rear end and run. If it still makes the noise~~`should be easy to find. Suspect something like a broken rear brake spring which may allow a shoe or other part to chew on drum. Pull rear wheels and try running again---Noise?? Pull rear drums and run (just don't step on brakes or you will have a mess!!!). Noise when going forward in gear but not in neutral suggests that the engine torque twist may be a factor. Check drive shaft intermediate bearing, if the rubber is shot, shaft could get kaka. Good luck and let us know what you find--Huck
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08-03-2002, 07:46 AM | #5 |
Captain CAAAVVVMMMAAANNN!
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Anna Texas
Posts: 726
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kinda sounds like the carrier bearing for the drive shaft. that's only if you have a 2 piece one.
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72 LWB Fleetside C10 Custom 350/350 97 GMC Yukon 4X4 SLT Anna, Texas check out the project old yeller |
08-03-2002, 10:33 AM | #6 |
Four Wheeler
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Decatur, IL
Posts: 101
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Thanks for the tips so far guys! Keep the suggestions coming! I'm off tomorrow and will definitely be under the truck. One thing I forgot to mention is that the squeek/squeal SOUNDS like it's coming from either in front of the firewall, or right below the floorboard. Also, even if I barely let off the brakes from a dead stop, and roll at about ˝mph... it'll "squeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeek" in slow motion. I can stop in the middle of the sound, then resume, and the sound will pick up where it left off. To me it seems like something round is warped or needs lubricated, and only engaged or under stress in the forward drive gears.
I'm willing to bet through the suggestions I get here, I'll be able to determine what the culprit is.... so... keep 'em rolling! I appreciate it! (Yes, I'm a self confessed newbie at the older carb'd classics. All I've ever drived were newer EFI vehicles) Thanks!
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'84 K20 4x4 350 V8 - Weiand intake - Headers - 4" Tuff Country lift - 35x12.50 ProComp M/Ts on 15x10s |
08-03-2002, 10:46 AM | #7 |
faster, faster, faster
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Houston ,Texas ,USA
Posts: 1,354
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I had the same problem untill yesterday when I changed my u-joints. No more squeek. One of the joiunts was dry and rested, and was grinding away the bearing shaft.
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I'm going to Law School, wanna debate? It's good practice. |
08-03-2002, 11:49 AM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Burien, WA, USA
Posts: 391
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LOL, probably not your problem, but when my 72 was making the same noise from the dash/firewall, I found out it was a whole sh*tload of sunflower seed shells from the previous owner that were stuck in the vents and were vibrating when I drove
RainDog
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"Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats." |
08-03-2002, 02:09 PM | #9 |
Four Wheeler
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Decatur, IL
Posts: 101
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I'm definitely going to have to get under the truck and see what's going on. I don't know if the U-joint is a 2 or 3 bolt. When I called into the parts store, they asked which it was. Also, as far as the carrier bearing.... it'd sure help if I knew whether or not the driveshaft was a 2-piece or not. LOL!
I do think the U-joint sounds like it could be the culprit. At only $12.99 I think I'll give it a shot. Does anyone know how difficult this would be to change? Any special tools needed? I'll be laying on my back in the driveway!
__________________
'84 K20 4x4 350 V8 - Weiand intake - Headers - 4" Tuff Country lift - 35x12.50 ProComp M/Ts on 15x10s |
08-03-2002, 02:49 PM | #10 |
Recovering Truck Driver
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Orleans, NE USA
Posts: 1,883
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I'm guessing I fubar'd a u-joint, the truck pulled 5000 pounds on the sled just before the sound started, so I could understand why the U-joint would be fried.....I know it's not the carrier bearing, because it don't have one, but that is what the sound sounds like.
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67 K-20 350, SM465, Eaton rear, 4.56 no spin option 00 Dodge 2500 4x4, 24V cummins, 5 speed Chad South Central Nebraska |
08-03-2002, 04:43 PM | #11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Surrey, B.C. , Canada
Posts: 874
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If its coming from inside the cab my bet is speedo cable or speedometer. Disconnect it and go for a drive.
CoryM
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1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070 "Take up our quarrel with the foe: To you from failing hands we throw The torch; be yours to hold it high." Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, Canadian Army |
08-03-2002, 05:14 PM | #12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Killingworth, CT. USA
Posts: 3,378
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I'd put my money on a bum u-joint.
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1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist. |
08-03-2002, 07:02 PM | #13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Pace, FL
Posts: 2,155
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CoryM might have it- that's what mine did when I got it. I just held up the end of the cable and poured some oil down it, let it sit so it could run down the whole cable, and the squeak stopped. If it's inside, that is.
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1942 Master Deluxe 1969 C/10 1985 Blazer CUCV 1987 Jimmy 2004 Tahoe 2005 Silverado 1500 2005 Silverado 3500 |
08-03-2002, 09:42 PM | #14 |
huh?
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Washington, Illinois
Posts: 5,690
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Say, didn't you used to have a 70 C10? The spaceship one? What ever happened to it?
As far as the problem goes, you might also lube the speedometer cable, like cory said. My 68 makes a nasty grinding noise at the back of the dash, and it's because of the speedo cable. TJ
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Someday when I'm lonely, Wishing you weren't so far away, Then I will remember Things we said today. RIP El Jay |
08-04-2002, 12:02 AM | #15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Mo
Posts: 963
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I have had disc brake pads make too much noise when they were getting worn. Also check your u-joints.
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New daily driver 96 Chevy K3500 crew cab dually 53,000 miles 350 Vortec 4L80 Nice ride 67 Chevy C-10 LWB Built 350 TH-400 Wifes ride and family rig: 2001 Furd Expedition 5.4 Liter Kickin back in Rolla,Mo. USA "Do the thing you fear most and the death of fear is certain" Mark Twain |
08-04-2002, 01:37 AM | #16 |
Four Wheeler
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Decatur, IL
Posts: 101
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Yes, I used to be the guy with the "Spaceship" C10! LOL! You can see the pictures here http://www.geocities.com/licken2/Vehicles/index.html ! That truck ended up being sold for next to nothing by my father. It was sitting in his drive, and he got tired of looking at.... so he sold it to a guy he worked with for around $200, who is still driving it (2 years later) !
As far as this mystery sound the 72 has, I think it's been pinpointed. It's definitely not coming from around the dash. I had my G/F listen as I slowly drove around the street we live on. She walked beside the truck. (THat's how slow I was driving). It's definitely coming from the space between the cab and the bed. Seems like a bad carrier bearing... I think I already dislike the 2-piece driveshaft. I crawled under the truck and tried to wiggle the driveshaft up & down, and side-to-side, to see if the U-Joint was bad at all. Absolutely no movement from it whatsoever (Still good?). I'm going to drop the shafts tomorrow, and will most likely do the U-joints too (why not?) while I have it out. Then I'll let everyone know if that corrected it. Otherwise I will most certainly look into the other suggestions with more ferocity! Thanks for the great advice everyone!
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'84 K20 4x4 350 V8 - Weiand intake - Headers - 4" Tuff Country lift - 35x12.50 ProComp M/Ts on 15x10s |
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