Powdercoated hood hinges for 67-72 $75

[jimmydean]

I bought a pair on ebay because I needed to replace my busted passenger one, then 3 days later, there was a cheaper set, so I bought both. I am stripping, bead blasting, then phosphate washing them before shooting a fresh coat of DuPont powdercoat. I will be shooting mine chasis black (semi gloss black). I figured I would offer up the other set here prior to posting on ebay. Since I haven't shot them, you could have your choice of color, otherwise they will be semi gloss black too.

For $75 + $10 shipping (they cost me $35 to start with), you have a choice of:
Gloss Black
Semi-Gloss Black
Flat Black
Argent Silver (like stock rally wheels)
Silver Metal Flake

I have a bunch of other colors, just not sure I would shoot hinges anything but those for myself. I will post before, during, and after pictures when I shoot mine so you get an idea of what your buying. I can shoot your hinges also for $35 + $10 shipping. I can shoot about anything if you need it too.

I've been shooting motorcycle, truck and car parts for just over 7 years now. If I get enough interest, I will donate 5% back to this site. This place is great! Thanks for looking.

jd.

[special-K]

I didn`t know joined moving parts could be powdercoated.BTW,where are you located?

[byrd]

[jimmydean]

It's all in how you shoot it. For things like springs that move, powder moves with it to an extent. Powder is nothing more than pulverized plastic that has been charged with static electricity that is drawn to grounded bare metal. Because it's plastic, it has some give and can move with the spring.

As for joined moving parts, you have to be careful where the moving parts are. there are 3 basic ways to do it:

You can use a light coat of high temp grease on the moving parts. The powder will not bond to the grease, so when the parts are shot and baked, the greased parts can be cleaned and are now free of powder. Sort of messy, but if done right, this works well.

You can mask off the moving parts, then either remove the mask before or after baking (still hot if after baking so the powder hasn't fully cured). This works well for large areas, or for places like mounting surfaces or gasket surfaces where powder might affect the fit.

You can shoot the whole part, then take a razor knife to the areas that move. You can cut through powder, it is only plastic, then the parts move free but retain the full coverage and protection powder provides.

I cut powder on things like hinges if it needs it. If the powder is light, then its easy and often doesn't need anything. Things like hinges don't take a lot of abuse, so you can get by with a lighter application. Things like bumpers, skid plates, lift/lowering springs need a nice double coat to handle hits and abuse while still looking cool.

I have some bling type colors too. I have a 24k gold metal flake clear that looks great on things like intake manifolds or pullies. I have a nickel metal flake clear for the same things. I shot all the chrome emblems of a friends Malibu with nickle clear to make it explode in the sun. You don't see it unless it's direct sunlight, otherwise it looks stock.

Eastwood does a lot with stuff like that (but the powder they use is crap compared to DuPont, or Cardinal). I have a few one-off type powders that are blended custom by a local shop too. I curently have over 30 colors.

[jimmydean]

Me and my shop are in Forest Grove, OR.