Decision has been made... K5 is a going to a new home (long, sorry)

[redz 1970 K5]

I really appreciate everyone's input on the last thread I started. For anyone wanting to come up to speed, please read-

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=163498

I really need a truck- for work, for the family, and most importantly for playtime. It's time. Plus, my commute has dropped from 60 miles a day to 2 miles a day, so the commuter car is going out the door too.

In order to get my truck, I need to offload my K5 unfortunately. I am looking at an older Ford F-350 96-97 quad cab long box or a 96-99 K3500 quad cab long box. Not sure which yet, but I just can't bring myself to pay $40-50k for a new truck, and obviously I have no problem driving an older vehicle

Those model years are my favorite for the respective manufacturers.

Anyways... I can't put my finger on an asking price- I am just too close to it to make a fair decision. I won't take a penny under $6,000, but I have no idea how much (if any) over that I can go. Now I know a truck is only worth as much as someone is willing to pay, but I could sure use your help for a starting price. I am not looking to sell on this forum, so be as critical as possible. Don't spare my feelings.

Some details (good and bad here fellas, all cards on the table)

Positives-

Tuff Country EZ Ride 6" springs, <300 miles
Explorer ES-3000s front, <300 miles
Explorer Stainless brake lines front <300 miles
Moog M2 Upper/Lower BJS <300 miles
Moog M2 Tie Rod Ends <300 miles
Moog M2 Draglink <300 miles
Wagner Rotors <300 miles
Cardone Calipers <300 miles
Inner/Outer Federal hub bearings <300 miles
Brute Force u-joints (axles) <300 miles
Warn hubs
Rough Country dual steering stabilizer <300 miles
Performance Accessories 3" Body Lift
Front bumper cut/welded
Prothane Body Mounts
Superlift 2" rear springs
Rough Country 2" rear blocks
Rancho RS-5000 shocks rear
38x15.50R16 Interco TruXus STSs with about 50% treadlife
16x10" American Racing Diamond Locks
Smittybilt 6 point roll cage, spreaders widened (glove box opens! )
Holly Street Avenger 670cfm carb <300 miles
Accel 8.8mm wires <300 miles
Proform HEI distributor, all new <300 miles
Edelbrock Performer Carb
Edelbrock Valve covers
Hedman Headers <300 miles
Totally custom true dual 2 1/2" exhaust with H pipe, stainless mufflers + tips
B&M Supercooler Transcooler
New fuel pump, new battery, 4 core radiator, new distributor, new voltage regulator
Pioneer head unit + outdoor speakers
custom rear roll pan
Smooth tailgate with custom skin
Front fenders, hood, grille in great shape
passenger rear quarter in good shape, doors & inner panels in good shape
3.73s, TH350, D44 front, 12 bolt rear
Truck runs AWESOME with great power, shifts solidly, starts easy and runs good, even in 100 degree weather.

Now for the negatives

Steering box leaks (1 tsp/mo)
Oil pan leaks (1 tbs/mo)
Tranny leaks (1 tbs/mo)
Xfer case leaks (1 tbs/mo)
Front pumpkin leaks (1 tsp/mo)
No carpet
Driver side needs new floor pan
Both rocker boxes need bottom sheet metal (all cancer cut away)
Heater not hooked up, fan doesn't work (haven't investigated)
Truck does have ongoing short, have used cutoff switch to prevent battery dying
Rear tailights work, both blinkers work, LH brake light doesn't. Possibly source of short
ahmeter guage not hooked up
Rear quarter on driver side has about a 2" crack by the fenderwell
Previous owner hacked dash for DIN stereo mount
rear seat not mounted

Well, that's about it. I could sure use some pointers... Like how much of this to divulge if I list on Ebay, I really want to be honest and fair and don't want to mislead.

guys, thanks in advance. For everything. Many of you have been there and helped me when I was installing everything from the list above.

If anyone had a 'shell' and were looking for the guts to populate it, I bet they couldn't get a better deal on all of the mods and bolt ons, even if they didn't drive it as is.











Guys, be honest with me, don't sugar coat it, don't worry about protecting my feelings here.

[Medicanman71]

w/ out any sugar coating - you'll be sorry!

[vtblazer]

Go for it, new rigs have all the positives.

Positive increase in monthly payments.
Positive increase in insurance payments.
Positive increase in the 'gotta customize to be different' catagory...

Just pickin', do what works best for you and your family, that's what matters.

[Scrubby]

It's a nice blazer, but the rust issues in the rocker boxes and floor would scare me off. I would be concerned with what you can't see. I think if you disclose that info, your not going to get $6K. Maybe the thing is worth more in parts? I don't know. Just giving you my honest opinion.

[Jimmy72custom]

Bring it to you friendly Ford (excuse my language) dealer and see what they would give you for it on a trade in. The dealers seem ready to deal.

[blazerparts]

Option 1

Try to sell in current condition. As we all know, you just have to find the right buyer. Some are looking for a lifted blazer, some are looking for stock suspension. How is your local market? If like here, I would suspect around $5k. Ebaywise, I would suspect around $4k.

Option 2

Part out lift kits and sell with stock suspension and tires. Would probably net about the same $ plus what you'd get off the lift stuff.

Too bad you couldn't get it to Reno, always kind of a "feeding frenzy" around here during HAN.

[redz 1970 K5]

Oh yeah, good old Hot August Nights... Where money and impulse always seemed to increase the coin in seller's pockets. Nostalgia ain't cheap, that's for sure.

[bouncytruck]

I'd slap some carpet in it and make sure it is cosmetically looking sharp. Your target buyer is probably a young guy 16-25 looking for a cool toy. Put it up for $7500 and see if you get any bites. If not, drop the price a little. The brand new big tires are a huge selling point.

I'd get that short figured out and remove the cut off switch. It screams that there might be lots of other problems that you may have decided to create "work arounds".

[72BlckButy]

I can see why you're having a hard decision of letting this sweet truck go. Good luck with everything.

[teamharvey]

Just take some time to think about it. If I remember right, this is the second time you have owned this blazer. I recently sold mine and I was okay with it at first. A couple of weeks ago I came back to the board to "check in" and pulled up the pics of my blazer. BIG mistake ! It has been bugging me ever since and the time and $$ invested will never come back. I got a fair price for mine ($14K) and was happy with the deal, but I could never have what I had for anywhere near that price. The problems you state on your post are MINOR compared to what most of us have or have gone through. When you are sitting in that ford and you see a 67-72 chevy coming your way, it will be tough.

Just my .02

Bret

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Well put brett... I would keep the blazer as a toy and get an older beat work truck.. J.M.O. Blazer's are kinda like women cant live with em and can't live with out em..

[bouncytruck]

Brett, I though you had the opportunity to buy your blazer back as well.

Although my '72 is my daily driver, I look forward to the day I can afford a daily driver and use the Blazer as a fun truck.

[Tynee]

My personal input. Around here that truck would bring real close to $6000 if you start your asking price around the $7500 that someone else mentioned. As was stated above, the issues you have are minor in comparison, and someone who is interested in that truck won't be looking for something so perfect they can't drive it.

[bouncytruck]

Looks like he settled on $6800.

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/car/84421432.html

Good luck with the sale and make sure you tell the next owner about the board.

[redz 1970 K5]

Thanks! Goes in Autotrader online tomorrow- hit the magazine today. I have had tons of interest in SoCal, but I am not too interested in the drive just yet so I will try and move it locally first.

[LUV2XCLR8]

I feal your pain, I have had a bunch of headaches w/ "GQ" ever since I bought
it, I know I could not build another one for what I have in it, but the other day
I had a guy write a check for $15K and lay it in front of me and I have been
second guessing myself ever since, should I have sold it, I told him it was not 4
sale, but then I turned around and told him if he writes me one for $20K it's his,
maybe that is too much in everyone here's opinion, but if I am going to regret it
later it's not going to be from giving it away Just a little food for thought

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by redz 1970 K5

I have had tons of interest in SoCal, but I am not too interested in the drive

Why would you need to drive?
Let them come and get it for themselves.

[redz 1970 K5]

Originally Posted by vtblazer

Why would you need to drive?
Let them come and get it for themselves.

Well, it's got Cali plates, it just came from Cali, and it is advertised in Cali... So the interest I have been getting is from local SoCal interest.

For the right price, and if paid upfront, I will go halfway or possibly all of the way. I don't need a reason to go halfway (Las Vegas) or all of the way (San Diego)... Any reason is a good reason to those spots.

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by redz 1970 K5

Well, it's got Cali plates, it just came from Cali, and it is advertised in Cali... So the interest I have been getting is from local SoCal interest.

Okay, makes sense now.

Good luck with the sale.

[redz 1970 K5]

Well, here is the Autotrader link-

http://www.collectorcartraderonline....1/80263391.htm

wish me luck! again... How do you guys like the pic? Figured they all use front view, so I would do something different.