Puller to disconnect connecting rod from pitman arm...

[COBALT]

...the last parts to get off the front-end are the idler arm off the frame, the pitman arm off the steering box, and the connecting rod off the pitman arm. I have a pitman arm puller, and I was just going to use that to pull both the idler and the pitman. However, I don't have a way to get the connecting rod off the pitman. It's stuck on there pretty tight, and I don't want to damange the rod (I gotta reuse that).

Anyone know of a puller I can get? The fit is pretty tight, and I tried torching it with a propane torch but it won't budge. None of my regular pullers will work because the jaws aren't thin enough to fit into the space between the rod and the pitman.

Any help would be cool.

Also, just for grins does anyone know the size of the nut on the gear-box side of the pitman arm? I forgot to measure it before I left my dad's yesterday. I need to get another overgrown socket and I have no idea how big it is. 1 1/8" ???

[woodrow59]

try here ....

http://www3.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...suspension.jsp

[TERRYP]

You separate these with a 'pickle fork', one narrow enough to just clear the shaft width, either a tie rod or ball juint type. They are 2 pronged forks with a wedge in them, they usually ruin the rubber grease cup, but you can buy those cheaply.

[COBALT]

I tried using my smallest pickle fork. It didn't look like the edges would fit into the space between the pitman and the rod. Guess I'll just have to try harder next time I'm there...

[Sinister]

there is a type of valve spring compressor that looks like a gear puller that might work in your situation, they're about $15...


dude...

[Snowbound]

Try a BFH and smack the end of the socket. I just pulled a steering box at the wreckers a couple weeks ago and it popped right off. I separated every joint on my front end this way when I did my disc swap. Works pretty well and you don't rip up the rubber parts.

Good luck,

Brian

[Ed ke6bnl]

I couldn't get one off my one ton dually without putting it in my 12 ton press and released with a bang safely and cleanly. Ed ke6bnl

[Michael A. K. G]

Harbor Freight sells a "small Pitman arm puller" for $6, that I've used for separating tie rods and drag links. It works great; remove the bolt and press on the stud end. Use as much leverage as you need; these pullers are so cheap they are "disposable." I've never broken one, though.

BTW, if your connecting rods are connected to your Pitman arm, you have one WEIRD truck. Doesn't that make the steering shaky, especially at high revs? How do you seal the crankcase?

[ThreeQuarter]

LOL @ AKG. But that's what I've always heard them called, too: connecting rods. Kinda like we have two kinds of rotors, two kinds of wheels, etc.

[Michael A. K. G]

Hmm. I thought the part that connnects to the knuckles was the "tie rod," one on each side. The drag link connects the tie rods together, the Pitman arm connects to the steering gear, and the idler arm connects to the opposite frame rail.

But I'm more familiar with Ford inverted-Y steering, where the drag link and one of the tie rods are the same thing, and there is no idler arm (and every bump whacks you in the face, etc.).

[PitterPats72]

I may be off base but what I saw inCustom Classic Trucks (CCT) was they used a hammer to strike the taper loose. This is on pg 76 of the Oct 2002 issue.

Like I said, this may not be what you're talking about but if you get a copy of tha mag it may be what you're looking for.

Pat

[COBALT]

Well whatever that rod is called it's stuck pretty good. The idler side came off just fine, but the pitman is stuck fast. Also, the inner tie rod ends came out easy too, but they should have because they were completely blown.

I've already used the hammer otherwise this post wouldn't be here. I'm going to save my money and try another round with the pickle fork. Worst case: I'll pull the pitman and the rod together and put them both on a vice, and hammer away...