![]() |
Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 |
Almost Satisfied
![]() Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 2,932
|
Brake Drum Removal.....ughhh!
OK, I have had these things off before albeit several years ago and now I am having lots of trouble. What is the trick to getting the drums off the back axle so I can get to the brakes? Between the sweat and the mosquitos I gave up last night. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
__________________
1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far." |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: South Deerfield, MA
Posts: 162
|
I know that on my truck I ran into the same problem, and was about to start smashing things when I realized that there were two rivets holding the drum to the spindle, which I had to grind off first. Look for those
__________________
1967 GMC Custom 8ft Fleetside 292 L6, 4spd. 1973 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Convertible 455, TH 400 1969 F#$% Bronco 302, 3spd 4.11's 1958 Oldsmobile Super 88 Fiesta Wagon |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Fairmont WV
Posts: 304
|
If they are rusted on, use a small amount of WD40 near the hub. Then give them a wack right between the lugs to loosten them up.
If they are loose from the hub, you probably need to loosten the brake shoes. They may be in a grove. There should be a knock out on the outer edge of the drum that you can get access to the self adjusters. You can replace the knockout with a rubber plug. I got mine with a spring kit for the rear brakes.
__________________
Rod Childers '71 C10 Stepside |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: jefferson city, mo
Posts: 1,364
|
should be a slot in the drum you can stick a screw driver in and adjust the brake, it will be on the bottom, rotate the drum to the bottom and use a light to look in there, once you loosen up the shoes you might still have to smack it with a hammer a few time to loosen it up, they rust around the wheel studs.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
70 Chevy 3/4t
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Kokomo,IN USA
Posts: 1,230
|
drum
You might also try some PB (not peanut butter!!!) it is a spray like WD40. I had a tire on my sisters car would not come off with any WD40 or hammering, put on the PB and within 1 minute it came off. It is some awesome stuff. Spray it around the studs and the hub, might still take a bit of work, but will do the job.
__________________
Find a job you love and you'll never have to work a day in your life. 1998 Yamaha V-Star 650 1970 Chevy 3/4t, I6 (rebuilt), 4 speed Kokomo,IN |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Not my good side.
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fairfield, California
Posts: 222
|
I had the same problem as RodC with grooved drums. I mean really grooved. The adjuster on one side had come unscrewed enough to where when I tried to back it off, it got cross-threaded. I had to literally pry the shoes out of the groove and out of the drum with a bent screwdriver and tiny prybar thru that small gap between the drum and backing plate. Not fun.
If it's not the shoes, look for two countersunk flat head screws holding the drum to the hub. Sometimes the drums are pressed on over the studs. That's the way it is on some 3/4 tons, not sure about halves.
__________________
72 Chevy K20 Custom Camper, 350/350, 4" lift, dual shock suspension front & rear. Daily driver and a work in progress. 00 Suburban LT 90 Camaro RS 79 Yamaha XS1100 Special (Ol' Reliable) |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 2,410
|
If you haven't had the drums off in several years then I suspect that your shoes (or whats left of them) have eaten into your drums. When I had front drums I was changing shoes all around every year. Now that I have front discs there is less wear and tear on the rear drums. Regardless, I inspect my brakes frequently, about twice a year.
You will have to loosen the shoes off the drums, ie, suck them in by turning the ratchet pawl (little toothed wheel). There is a metal clip that rides on the pawl. When you turn the pawl to tighten the brakes you can hear the clip clicking on the teeth. You want to turn the pawl in the other direction. You will need 2 screwdrivers, one to pull the clip off the pawl so it turns in the direction you want and the other to turn the pawl itself. If you manage to get the shoes backed off the drums as far as the adjuster will let you, and rust is still holding the drum tight, then a sharp rap on the center hub with a big hammer will do the trick. You should be inspecting your brakes at least every year. The end result of letting it slide is having to get the drums turned or even replacing them.
__________________
1970 GMC 1500 Custom Original 350/TH350 Victoria, BC, Canada You can wish in one hand and crap in the other. See which one gets filled first. Last edited by Southpa; 09-04-2002 at 12:21 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Center City, MN, USA
Posts: 3,254
|
If the shoes are not hung up and the drum is rusted on, do like other are saying...
spray with a liquid penetrating oil, PUT THE LUG NUTS BACK ON TO PROTECT YOUR STUD THREADS, get a BFH and whack the heck out of the drum between the studs as you turn the wheel with your free hand. Yes you will have to raise both sides if this is a rear.
__________________
'70 cab, '71 chassis, 383, TH350, NP205. '71 Malibu convertible '72 Malibu hard top Center City, MN |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Almost Satisfied
![]() Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 2,932
|
OK thanks for the input. I was sure those just slid off. I am thinking they must be rusted to the lug nuts but I didn't want to go BFHing anything until I knew for sure. The axle is off the frame so it is easy to work on. Thanks again. I'll let you know if I succeed.
__________________
1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far." |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 10
|
Just saw this post, im sure the info would have been handier a few days ago but hey here goes.
Someone told me once that to get a rusted drum off the ticket is to hit it around the outside edge - swinging toward the center of the hub. I tell ya what, i havent had one give me any trouble since, they pop right off! It has to do with the vibration or wave that is created when you hit it there, i dont know for sure, but I do know it works. I had spent hours (and ruined a few drums) hitting around behind trying to knock it off, or hitting between the lugs trying to loosen stuff up.
__________________
STKNRDR 72 LWB c/10 4wd-Hugger Orange - Frame Off Resto, 350, 4"lift, Auburn Limited Slips Both Axles- 4.56 gears- 35's - HEI - Edelbrock Performer Carb and Intake. Recently Completed - 700r4/NP208 conversion and vortec heads. Future Goals - Vortec Injection, lowering back to original height, and one ton running gear so's I can haul all my crap. Lifted truck look cool but they are useless for anything but 'wheeling |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 599
|
To get my 6 lug drums off which were so stuck that no amount or type of hammering would move them, I quickly made a puller of sorts. 3 foot piece of heavy pipe or rod, hook made from 3 short pieces of angle. one on either side of pipe with a bolt running through it all, and third welded to the ends of the two so the flat edge can go behind the drum. took me 5 min to find stuff and weld up the hook, easily removes the most rusted drums, put the end of the pipe on the hub and the hook behind the drum. pull on one side then the other in sharp yanks, It was definatly worth making it for me!
Jesse
__________________
Edmonton, Alberta, 67 c-10, Long fleet, front disks, 5 lug rear end, 327 with Vortechs, edlbrock manifold, comp cams XE 256, 600cfm carb. Backed by a getrag 5 speed and 1 piece driveshaft. 1993 Dihatsu Hijet Jumbo cab 4x4, currently converting to battery electric power. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Recovering Truck Driver
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Orleans, NE USA
Posts: 1,883
|
the PB blaster is really good stuff, the hammering is also a good method, vibration will break the rust up, and i have seen them where the metal expansion from the heat has shrunk the drum to the hub, and a little heat from a propane or oxy/acetylene torch will go along way, and there is also a very good chance it is hanging up on the shoes, but there is usually some movement and the drum will kind of ring when you smack it with a hammer. Not to discourage you, but i did have a time in the junkyard where I had to torch the drum off the axle.
__________________
67 K-20 350, SM465, Eaton rear, 4.56 no spin option 00 Dodge 2500 4x4, 24V cummins, 5 speed Chad South Central Nebraska |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Almost Satisfied
![]() Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 2,932
|
a little WD and a few good wacks and the right side came right off. The left side needed a bunch of adjustment done to the shoes, some more WD, and a few more wacks and it came off!
Thanks for the help!
__________________
1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far." |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Rolla Missouri
Posts: 46
|
I had a similar problem with a f@*d van we had. I was checking it over before inspection was due and I went ahead and bought brake pads and shoes for it. I replaced the front pads in less that 30 minutes and spent the rest of the day trying to get the rear drums off. I beat and pried, heated the center of the axel flange with a torch and beat some more and stuff. I ended up knocking the studs off inside the drum and grinding the raised part of the flange slick off with the drum heated and beat some more. I had literally spent hours (most of a day) trying top get the stupid drum off. No amount of penetrating liquid or brute force helped. I left it for about 20 minutes and came back with a 10lb hammer and whack! It fell off to find near new brake shoes inside. Talk about pissed! I was. Them suckers shoulda been worn to the rivets to put up that much of a fight! LOL
__________________
Heaven has no rage like love to hatred turned, Nor hell a fury like a woman scorned." -William Congreve, "The Mourning Bride" |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|