Rear Fuel Tank swap

[67chevemall]

some pics

[ed455]

Originally Posted by 67chevemall

$25! good score I'd say that is the way to go!

I tried a cell in the bed and now I have it under the bed.
Now I'm looking for fuel sensor ideas for plastic cells?

I got my fuel sensor from Speedway. If you're using the factory gauge I believe you need the 90 ohm model. GM uses 90 ohm sensors. The swing arm is very long and you need to cut it to the correct length for your fuel cell and you'll need to use a hole saw to mount it. If you have gas in your tank you might want to empty is for this as plastic shavings aren't really good for you fuel system (duh).

I have a similar cell mounted and I have a SW fuel gauge. Works well. You'll have to run a ground wire to the body or frame for it to work though.

[leadfoot067]

found this site in my searching.... www.tanksinc.com

[Austin C10]

Truck and Car shop in Orange CA have the Blazer galvanized steel tank kit for $192. It does require crossmember removal or cutting, additional lines to run to the cannister, filler tube, and filler installation. Obviously it requires placement of the filler.

Fuel Cell Guy quoted me $375. This tank seems to be pretty customized for my truck (e.g. no crossmember problems, mounts without fabricating stud on a blazer), I'm debating if its worth the additional cost. It also has the filler neck.

I'm probably not going to get too tricky with the filler location. Can anyone describe the best way to locate the filler through a door on the side bed panel? Also, do I need to remove the bed for a Blazer and FuelCellGuy installation? What kind of lines do I need to supply the cannister?

Thanks

[72MARIO]

I would go with FUELCELLGUYS tank. Being it's a bolt in.

[hambone1958]

I got both a Fuelcellguy tank and the ECE tank both fit very well love them both. It all boils down to stainless VS aluminum. I ended up putting the ECE in Jumpin Jimmy will most likely use the fuelcellguys tank in the 67 unless i sell it first.

[rkarr]

Early Classic's is awesome, especially if you're going to go with fuel injection...
I'ts got the sender and a bung and all the plumbing for the fuel pump, as well as a FILLER VENT I've read too many threads about the new tank being a bear to fill, be sure to vent the filler pipe!!!

[project1971]

Well I'll join in here... I used a poly blazer tank I got from buddy who bought it and ended up using a fuel cell. I custom made the fuel filler since the truck was bought by my old man and spent ALOT of it's life on 29 Palms base I thought using an ammo can as the fuel fill was kinda cool. Once I redo the truck it will be repainted also and look cool.

[Brad]

Is that a pipe fitting on there?!? I REALLY wouldn't use that if it's a screw fitting- one spark and BOOM!

[JadeEmperor]

I didn't get to read through this entire thread and can't get the thread search to work so this may have been answered already. I'm trying to figure out what I need to do to the wiring from my float to my gauge for it to read properly. I've heard that different sending units use different resistance values and in order to get mine to gauge properly I have to put something inline to match up with what I'm using. I installed an 86 Blazer tank (31 gal.) between the rails, with an 86 Blazer unit and float. I'm using the stock 70 gauge. Thanks in advance for any help.

[stepside67]

I am looking a FuelCellGuy tank for my 67 stepside. Does any have pictures of bed mounted filler neck? I recall seeing one setup where a single board was hinged and flipped up to reveal filler neck. Can't seem to find pictures of this anywhere...

Keith L.

[Joe67]

Originally Posted by stepside67

I am looking a FuelCellGuy tank for my 67 stepside. Does any have pictures of bed mounted filler neck? I recall seeing one setup where a single board was hinged and flipped up to reveal filler neck. Can't seem to find pictures of this anywhere...

Keith L.

Project Copperhead has a bed floor board hinged to expose the filler. Others have used a nice billet type cap similar to the CoolCap offered by AirRide.
At Carlisle Trucks last summer, there was a nice 60s Vette fuel cap used

[hoser]

Originally Posted by Brad

Is that a pipe fitting on there?!? I REALLY wouldn't use that if it's a screw fitting- one spark and BOOM!

My 87 chevy C60 chassis bus has a factory screw on metal cap for its tank..

[saxmo]

Originally Posted by ed455

here's what I did for a gas tank. One thing I alway noted about the old trucks was that the cabs always smell like gasoline.

I agree. I had a 55 chevy truck with tank behind seat, lotsa fumes, not to mention the sloshing noise every time you take a corner or brake, or accelerate, or close the door, or turn up the radio, or reach for the ignition.. well I guess you get the idea.

[Joe67]

If you smelled gas in the cab, you had some problems with the tank.

[Chris4x4Gill2]

Have any of you used the kit from LMC? How does it compare to the others?

From what i have read on here I take it that the one from FuelCellGuy is the easiest to install?

[Joe67]

Originally Posted by Chris4x4Gill2

Have any of you used the kit from LMC? How does it compare to the others?

From what i have read on here I take it that the one from FuelCellGuy is the easiest to install?

I'm not sure about easiest, but I had to only drill 2 or 4 holes in my frame to mount the FCG tank and bolt it up.
I did cut up some rubber gasket material to use between the tank flange and the frame to help with any possible squeaking

[Chris4x4Gill2]

Ok...newbie question

Is there a how to on the install of FCG's or any of the others? I looked i nthe FAQ's and through this thread but I still have questions.

[mongo 72]

Anyone know how to get ahold of fuel cell guy? I am interested in one of his tanks but have a few questions that need answering and how to purchase one. Thanks

[TugOwar]

FCG has been afk for a while as he gets set up in his new shop. He made several posts in general discussion last week so his PM box should be cleaned out now. Try sending him a PM and see what happens. I think he is still somewhat in the process of moving so give him a few days to reply.

[Mordachai]

I did a job almost exactly like yank's.

I'd been thinking about it for ages, got the idea from the old bel-airs. never got around to it, or had thought money would be better spent until I saw this:


Yes, that's gasoline! and right over the exaust too! I drove it every day, never did smell gas, but noticed that one day when changing my oil.
Time to do the tank swap...

I ordered a blazer tank from brother's truck, mounted it and started on the filler.

I didn't have to cut the corner support that much, but welding the fuel filler, and getting it in there was pretty tricky....

here's what I cut,



as you can see, my truck needs paint, oh, and a bed!




I just welded a hinge to the metal light houseing, and riveted the other end to the body. not the prettiest, but it works. Basically I riveted it for mock up, I will weld it in place and smooth out the rivets(one day).

even with the bumper on, the light swings down almost 90 degrees, plenty of space to get a filler in.




I used it for about 3 months with out a vent hose, and man, what a PITA to fill, took forever, and splashed out regularly. I figured that's not the best thing around my lights(electricity!) so I added a vent hose to one of the vents on the tank. I routed it up and around the wheel well, into the top of the bedrail(not in a stake hole), and put one of those auto purge vents designed for boats on the end. (it's hidden under the bedliner...)

With the vent hose installed, works like a charm.
I've still yet to fill the tank hole on the cab though!

|M|

[yank]

Mordachai, looks good. Placing the hinge on the bottom of the tail light housing gives you a lot more room for the filler neck than I had to work with. If I ever do another one I think I,ll look at putting the hinge at the bottom or maybe even the top of the housing.

Here is a pic of mine

[Joe67]

I've always wondered about spill over and wiring on those setups.
How easy is it to access the fuel cap in there?

[Mordachai]

really been no problem for me, but the wires are wrapped in multpile layers of high-temp, oil resistant tape, that stretchy bubble tape stuff, and the outside is wrapped with the abrasion resistant tape.

I've spilled a few drops since I put the vent in, but not like when it was unvented and splashed out everywhere.

|M|


Oh, I meant to mention, that there are a few companys that sell LED lights to go in your lens. It actually replaces the metal housing that the lens screws into, and is really thin, roughly 1/2" thick. I am really hesitant to put them in the truck, but the red LED with a red lens(with blue dot of course) might not look too bad. you might not even be able to tell it's LEDs behind a red lens(instead of clear - ewwww)

|M|