New to 69-72 blazers, few questions...

[krebsatm02]

I've been wheeling a 88 K5 for a couple years now, but decided it's too big and I'm in the slow process of building a full tube rock buggy. I'm now left with my old K5 that is not friendly to drive on the street and too heavy for me to tow with my current truck.

So, I'm planning on taking the drivetrain from my current blazer and swapping it into a 69-72. TBI GM crate 350 with ~15,000 miles, SM465, NP208, dana 60, 14 bolt.

I'm building this for a daily driver/very mild wheeling/light towing.

Now for the questions...

Are the steering boxes the same? Can I swap out my sector shaft or the entire box to the older frame for crossover?

I know the rear springs are the same lenght, what is the difference in the front?

If it doesn't have AC how hard is it to convert it to AC? Different dash, blower motor?

I've found a body and frame for $500, all the info I have at the moment is it has some rust on the floor pans. From reading it seems like this is the tip of the iceburg.

What is the main thing I should look for when it comes to rust? I'd rather start off with a good body. I've never done body work, but I've repaired interior panes on my current K5. I cut out the entire section behind the rear wheel wells and spliced in a new section. I also repaired the floors.

I'm not sure how much is left in the engine compartment. Would would bolt up?

brake booster and master cylinder bolt up?
radiator/condensor?
anything else?


Looking forward to starting on this project if this body is decent.

Thanks - Doug

[makovai]

Welcome.... I is a newbie too, so i'm still learning about these first gen blazers. I had a 73 for many years and i do see alot of similarities, but none that i can answer your questions withy a "for sure".

Just thought i'd say welcome.

[Tynee]

The places that are most difficult to repair, as far as rust goes, are the rocker boxes (inside the rocker panels under the floor boards). The other most common places to see rust (that are difficult to repair) are the windshield frame and the rear cross-sill. At least this is all my understanding from everything I've read on this board. Chances are, if you've got rust in the floorboards and behind the doors, down low, then the rocker boxes are going to have issues as well.

Anyway, the biggest reason I even replied was to say welcome to the board to both of you!!

[Chevy Muscle]

Originally Posted by krebsatm02

Now for the questions...

Are the steering boxes the same? Can I swap out my sector shaft or the entire box to the older frame for crossover?

I know the rear springs are the same lenght, what is the difference in the front?

If it doesn't have AC how hard is it to convert it to AC? Different dash, blower motor?

I've found a body and frame for $500, all the info I have at the moment is it has some rust on the floor pans. From reading it seems like this is the tip of the iceburg.

What is the main thing I should look for when it comes to rust? I'd rather start off with a good body. I've never done body work, but I've repaired interior panes on my current K5. I cut out the entire section behind the rear wheel wells and spliced in a new section. I also repaired the floors.

I'm not sure how much is left in the engine compartment. Would would bolt up?

brake booster and master cylinder bolt up?
radiator/condensor?
anything else?

Thanks - Doug

I don't know about the steering box issue.

Front springs are different on the first-gen. I can't remember what the difference is, but it's different.

Aftermarket A/C is easy... but if you want stock, you will have to either replace the dash with an A/C dash, or cut the holes out for the vents (I did this)

Rust.... it's hard to say until you see it, but you need to check the rocker boxes. They are a structural piece of the body and you'll need good ones... they can be replaced though. It sounds like you know how to replace panels.

I think your engine should bolt up just fine with the right motor mounts. What trans was in the first gen?

With the right bracket, you should be able to use the booster, assuming that an automatic column selector doesn't interfere with the booster

[Chevy Muscle]

BTW, welcome to the site!


Also, I will probably get flamed for suggesting this, but if this is going to be a daily driver and you are not really going to wheel much..... why put in a heavy/expensive d60/14b ? Why not just use the d44/12b combo.... it's cheaper to maintain and lighter.

[LUV2XCLR8]

To the Board from West TN

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by Chevy Muscle

if this is going to be a daily driver and you are not really going to wheel much..... why put in a heavy/expensive d60/14b ? Why not just use the d44/12b combo.

Another consideration would be the cross over steering. Why would you need/want that on a "moderate" vehicle?
You don't really need cross over until you go with at least a 6" lift, I believe.
Also consider the wheelbase on a blazer, it's short. 105 inches!
Not the best thing to tow with let alone being lifted.

Don't mean to drop on your ensuing project but just trying to find the potential oversights.

Welcome to the board, enjoy the ride.

[Burt4x4]

Ahhh VT that is 104" wheelbase

Start with tiresize and type of wheeling then build the drivetrain to match

[krebsatm02]

I'll try to answer all the questions in one post...

Why use the 1 ton drivetrain?

Because I have it, and the tires and rims I have left over from a previous build are 35" BFG MT's on 8 lug rims. Also, the dana 60 is completely rebuilt except for the ring and pinion. I even did the kingpins The 14 bolt has disc brakes and a detroit in it and the brakes and rotors are lifetime warrantied. Also, I have a 8 lug 10 bolt, but when it was previously on my 88K5, the ball joints would wear out every year and a half or so.

Basically I have this entire 1 ton blazer with a good drivetrain/engine sitting in my driveway doing nothing but cracking it

I know a lifted/short wheel base vehicle is not good for towing, thats why i said light towing...

I think I'm going to order Alcan springs, as I want it to ride well. I think I'm going to shoot for a 4" lift. I have no experience with this body style though, so I hope that will be enough. I'm not going to wheel this blazer, but I'd like to be able to go down trails and around a ranch. I also don't want to cut the fenders...

As far as crossover steering... I was just going to use it since I had it.

I'm concerned with rust that is visible too the eye from the outside. I've never done "body work" that needs too look good. I'm not scared of it, but I'd prefer if I didn't have to try. Replacing floorboards or supports doesn't concern me. Replacing metal like the windshield pillar seems like it would be a real pain to get right though.

I should mention the blazer I saw is just a body and frame, it's also 8 hours away from me and only $500. So if I make the effort to look at it I'm pretty much going to buy it since it will take $150 in gas to get there and back.

Thanks for the help so far. Hopefully this guy responds to my email soon and I'll post pictures. I'm one of those people that gets ideas in their heads and can't fall asleep causing I'm already planning for something I don't have - Doug

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by Burt4x4

Ahhh VT that is 104" wheelbase

Yeah, my bad.

I measured my 4x4ing blazer and forgot the axles had been relocated...

[krue]

Welcome to the board from South Mississippi!

[71swb4x4]

Since that Blazer tub is so far away you could see if a board member would check it out for you. They can take a look and take pictures for you. Most of the people are good honest people, who are willing to help out.

[krebsatm02]

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

Since that Blazer tub is so far away you could see if a board member would check it out for you. They can take a look and take pictures for you. Most of the people are good honest people, who are willing to help out.

LOL, I don't think it's too far away, I guess because I live in Texas. However gas prices now-a-days can get to you. It's in lubbock if anyone is around there. It seems the owner is pretty decent if he'll ever contact me

[krebsatm02]

By the way, thanks for all the welcomes, I'm not used to a friendly board.

Another question, does a newer model AC box (box with the evaporater/heater core) fit? From the pictures it doesn't look like it would.

[cstanley]

Originally Posted by krebsatm02

LOL, I don't think it's too far away, I guess because I live in Texas. However gas prices now-a-days can get to you. It's in lubbock if anyone is around there. It seems the owner is pretty decent if he'll ever contact me

class of '02, eh? HOWDY!
fightin' texas aggie class of 2000 here! Whoooop!

(wow, it's been a while since i've said that!)

Welcome to the board!

[krebsatm02]

Originally Posted by cstanley

class of '02, eh? HOWDY!
fightin' texas aggie class of 2000 here! Whoooop!

(wow, it's been a while since i've said that!)

Welcome to the board!

Yup, class of '02, I was even a BQ... LOL

I came back to get a second degree, guess I didn't have enough punishment...

I did some e-stalking and found the guys email on another post on that particular board... Hopefully he'll respond quicker that way

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by krebsatm02

I think I'm going to order Alcan springs, as I want it to ride well. I think I'm going to shoot for a 4" lift. I have no experience with this body style though, so I hope that will be enough. I'm not going to wheel this blazer, but I'd like to be able to go down trails and around a ranch. I also don't want to cut the fenders...

A 4" lift is a good all around 'doable' lift without the issue's of going higher. (towing )
Alcan springs will give you a great ride for sure, good choice.
If you want to wheel and not rub, 33's are going to be it, with 35's you'll rub if flexed much.
The only issue I see running a 1 ton drive train with 33's would be your pumpkin clearance won't be much/that good.

You could sell your 1 ton drive train for good cash and find yourself a driver quality blazer.

1st and 2nd gen blazer's have almost nothing in common, so starting fresh might make thing's go quicker/easier. JMO.

Keep us posted.

[Yukon Jack]

I'm pretty certain the only difference you will have in the steering box is it will be metric but that won't cause you a problem since you are using the motor and presumably the power steering pump that was hooked to that steering box. As far as I know it will bolt right in place of the stock one on the 1st gen Blazer.

Oh, welcome to the board!

[krebsatm02]

Originally Posted by vtblazer

You could sell your 1 ton drive train for good cash and find yourself a driver quality blazer.

1st and 2nd gen blazer's have almost nothing in common, so starting fresh might make thing's go quicker/easier. JMO.

Keep us posted.

I'm a sucker for punishment!!

I might be able to get $1500 for my 1 ton's... maybe. In december I probably spent 300-400 rebuilding the Dana 60, and I'm pretty sure I don't want to let them go.

We'll see how this goes...

My main problem is I don't have alot of money at the moment. I went back to school for a second degree and we live off the wife's salary, which is plenty adequate. However, with paying for school and the house, saving for retirement, etc... there isn't a whole lot left over. So I'm trying to do this on a limited budget, and keep the wife happy

My car right now is a very clean, low mileage F150 that I absolutely hate. It gets horrible gas mileage with the I6 300 and it won't tow the blazer. I also hardly ever drive it. I have a motorcycle which I drive 90% of the time. I only drive the truck to pick up stuff for the house or if I somehow go out of town without my wife. We take her car when we go on trips or anywhere in town.

So the plan is to build a blazer for a daily driver, and when I'm satisfied with it sell the F150 to recoupe some money. When I graduate I'll buy a new truck and this will become a toy. At that time I would probably fully restore it. I'm only worried about the mechical aspect, which I wouldn't be if I used my drivetrain. The engine is a cratemotor from GM with ~15,000 miles.

I know this probably doesn't sound like the best idea, but I like it!

My goal for right now is to find a decently sound body, throw the drive train under it, get AC if possible (no top if not), and drive it for a month or so. Then sell the F150.

[krebsatm02]

So during that long previous rambling, the guy emailed me. Not very much though, doesn't he know I'm losing sleep over this?

Said the rust is definately fixable, although I have yet to see pictures.

Has no title, but I've been through that before with my motorcycle. Kinda of a pain, but not a deal breaker.

Said he'll get pics asap...

A lit a fire under his ass and said I could pick it up next week if it's what I'm looking for. Kinda kills my chances of dealing on the price but for $500, $50 bucks off would just be for my pride

[Chevy Muscle]

It looks like there's a bunch of other guys intersted in that blazer too. Good luck, I hope you can beat the other guys out.

[krebsatm02]

Originally Posted by Chevy Muscle

It looks like there's a bunch of other guys intersted in that blazer too. Good luck, I hope you can beat the other guys out.

Well I've got the cash and I'll pick it up on monday if it's what I want. Just waiting on a phone call or an email from the guy and pics.

[krebsatm02]

Too far gone for what I want to do... Maybe someone could use parts from it? Looks like it has a single wall top? Windshield frame looks ok?

check it out... all the way at the bottom right now

[ian villeza]

Originally Posted by krebsatm02

Too far gone for what I want to do... Maybe someone could use parts from it? Looks like it has a single wall top? Windshield frame looks ok?

check it out... all the way at the bottom right now

That thing looks like a give away to me. Thats as bad as it get's....

[vtblazer]

Wow, now that's a keeper...meaning he can keep it.

Wasn't the description given, "some rust" ?