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05-04-2006, 12:07 AM | #1 |
Blue 67
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Western WA
Posts: 1,179
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How do you remove the seal?
I mean the seal in the wheel hub?
Another question: If the brake shoes are contaminated with the brake fluid, should I change them or just clean them. Thanks in advance.
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1953 GMC 3/4 ton: current project 1967 C20: 5.3 voretc with T5 conversion, 4 wheel 8 lug disc brake 1972 Nova: my 4 door sport sedan! 5.3 voretc + T5 conversion. drivable project, FUN!! 1979 Camaro Z28: 5.3 vortec conversion with build TH350: drivable project, Fun to drive 1992 Camaro RS convertible (Z28 clone): 5.3 conversion with build T5: on going project 2005 Silverado 2500, 4x4 Duramax, original owner |
05-04-2006, 12:11 AM | #2 |
Blue 67
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Western WA
Posts: 1,179
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Re: How do you remove the seal?
Is this the seal/ Or if it is not can I just put some silicon arount it ot seal the oil from coming out?
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1953 GMC 3/4 ton: current project 1967 C20: 5.3 voretc with T5 conversion, 4 wheel 8 lug disc brake 1972 Nova: my 4 door sport sedan! 5.3 voretc + T5 conversion. drivable project, FUN!! 1979 Camaro Z28: 5.3 vortec conversion with build TH350: drivable project, Fun to drive 1992 Camaro RS convertible (Z28 clone): 5.3 conversion with build T5: on going project 2005 Silverado 2500, 4x4 Duramax, original owner |
05-04-2006, 03:58 AM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,363
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Re: How do you remove the seal?
Turn the drum over, the seal is in the hub. The second picture is of the axle flange gasket (yes, you can use silicone there if you can't find a new gasket). Oil contaminated shoes should ALWAYS be changed (I am an A.S.E. Certified Master Heavy Truck Tech. with better than 20 years experience, so don't argue with me! ). Also, clean the brake drums with brake cleaner spray. Follow the manual for proper rear wheel bearing adjustment, and replace the nut locks if they appear to have been bent over too many times. Don't forget to check the oil level in the axle when you are done!
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1967 GMC CM-2500 Camper Cruiser, 351E V-6, NP 435 4 speed, Dana 60, and factory A/C. 2012 GMC K-3500 WT regular cab, 6.0L Vortec, 6L90. Last edited by Bob B.; 05-04-2006 at 04:01 AM. |
05-04-2006, 10:24 AM | #4 |
Blue 67
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Western WA
Posts: 1,179
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Re: How do you remove the seal?
Thanks Bob. I won't argue!. Do I need any special tool to remove the seal? One other thing, if the bearing are suppose to be lubricated with rear diff fluid why the seal is behind them on the back of the hub?!
Also on below pictures how can you tell the shoes have been contaminated wityh brake fluid of rear diff fluid? I know it sound stupid but I can't say. The wheel cylinder looks in good shape and I don't see any evidence of fluid around the two end of it but there is this sticky smear on it's body!!!. Also the smear on the shoes are sticky and it doesn't have any particular smell to it.
__________________
1953 GMC 3/4 ton: current project 1967 C20: 5.3 voretc with T5 conversion, 4 wheel 8 lug disc brake 1972 Nova: my 4 door sport sedan! 5.3 voretc + T5 conversion. drivable project, FUN!! 1979 Camaro Z28: 5.3 vortec conversion with build TH350: drivable project, Fun to drive 1992 Camaro RS convertible (Z28 clone): 5.3 conversion with build T5: on going project 2005 Silverado 2500, 4x4 Duramax, original owner Last edited by Nima; 05-04-2006 at 10:46 AM. |
05-04-2006, 10:47 AM | #5 |
Blue 67
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Western WA
Posts: 1,179
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Re: How do you remove the seal?
I forgot the pics on the other thread!.
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1953 GMC 3/4 ton: current project 1967 C20: 5.3 voretc with T5 conversion, 4 wheel 8 lug disc brake 1972 Nova: my 4 door sport sedan! 5.3 voretc + T5 conversion. drivable project, FUN!! 1979 Camaro Z28: 5.3 vortec conversion with build TH350: drivable project, Fun to drive 1992 Camaro RS convertible (Z28 clone): 5.3 conversion with build T5: on going project 2005 Silverado 2500, 4x4 Duramax, original owner |
05-04-2006, 11:20 AM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Gulfport Mississippi
Posts: 364
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Re: How do you remove the seal?
I was going to suggest using sardines but I might have misunderstood the question.
I was a little scared to open the thread due to reading in the past of people's escapades with gerbils. (Armagedon...Armagedon) Just kidding of course! JKR
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****Have you ever danced with the devil in the pale moonlight....I ask that of all my prey**** 68' C10 Short Step (rebuilding as we speak) 72' Custom Camper (wrecked, parting out) 79' C10 Fleet (rough, parting out) 97' C1500 Short Step Custom (DD) 97' Kawaski VN800a Customized 99' Z71 Silverado 04' Suzuki Volusia Last edited by thejoker; 05-04-2006 at 11:21 AM. |
05-04-2006, 04:05 PM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio,USA
Posts: 1,404
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Re: How do you remove the seal?
Knock out your old seal with a punch or whatever. Clean everything with brake clean. Rub some grease on the bearings before installing them.(that will lube them until axle lube gets circulated around and in them) When installing the seal, the inner lip goes torwards the oil. Oil comes out of the axle, around the outer (small) bearing, fills the hub, and then works it's way to the inner (big) bearing. The seal prevents the oil from contaminating your shoes like you have now. Set bearing preload with the nut as per manual. Apply sealant to the axle flange and install the axle. Tighten as required. As was said before, be sure to refill your diff. Hope this helps?
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LIFE AIN'T EASY WHEN YER FAT AND GREASY! GMC= Got More Class! 1970 GMC LWB, Fleetside, 350/4spd, Flowmaster "40's", 2002 GMC 16" Rallies, cowl hood,and added a bunch of options that weren't there when I started. |
05-04-2006, 06:01 PM | #8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,363
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Re: How do you remove the seal?
Yup, that's it!
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1967 GMC CM-2500 Camper Cruiser, 351E V-6, NP 435 4 speed, Dana 60, and factory A/C. 2012 GMC K-3500 WT regular cab, 6.0L Vortec, 6L90. |
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